Anybody out there that has their project soda blasted please take a look at my photo's. The original paint was cracked and in bad shape so one would expect a little rust underneath. The guy used a soda/10% aluminum oxide mix and this is the results. I think I got a piss poor job, let me hear your thought on this. Jeff http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k249/hotrod363765/40 buick/?action=view¤t=soda012.jpg http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k249/hotrod363765/40 buick/?action=view¤t=soda011.jpg http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k249/hotrod363765/40 buick/?action=view¤t=soda008.jpg http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k249/hotrod363765/40 buick/?action=view¤t=soda007.jpg http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k249/hotrod363765/40 buick/?action=view¤t=soda006.jpg http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k249/hotrod363765/40 buick/?action=view¤t=soda005.jpg http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k249/hotrod363765/40 buick/?action=view¤t=soda004.jpg
Actually... that looks like what I would expect. Soda just isnt that aggressive... which means it isnt as dangerous to the panels... But you cant expect SAND blasting results...
Looks like he could have used something a little more aggressive and gotten it right down to bare metal. I'm no expert but I wouldn't be satisfied with that job as it looks like there is still oxidation on the surface. Frank
Geeze so what IS the point of soda blasting, if you have to go back and still sand the whole car down? GMGrunt coulda done that to begin with and saved the money of the blasting....
looks like it's been soda blasted. point is its easy to clean up, more well suited to carbs and non ferrous metals
What did it look like when you started? Soda won't take off rust, but it almost looks like the car was exposed to humidity and the bare metal 'flash rusted'. You've got to get primer on it quick to prevent that. You might be able to make up a naval jelly solution and wash the body down with it, using a scotchbrite pad to scrub. When done right it leaves a really nice shiny metal finish, and will kill off surface rust.
Looks like someone painted over the metal in that condition. Looks like it's ready for the DA sander and some Evapo rust. Be happy that the paint isn't still on there to gum up sheet after sheet of expensive sandpaper.
Whomever did the blasting should know what the desired results should be. Blaming it on the media used just doesnt cut it, my blaster guy used soda on mine and some other media on the rusty areas im not sure what he used but there was no surface rust on the car anywhere it cost just under $500 for this job EDIT: I forgot to add the price included a gallon of neutralizing agent. to wash it down with.
the point is its safe to remove most light/medium duty stuff while being gentle enough to work around glass and chrome/stainless when needed. i soda blast often and i also sand blast, knowing what tool to bring to the job is 98% of it. in my opinion you either didnt know the results you would get or you expected a pace car to run the full indy 500 and keep up with the pack
Looks like most of the stuff I sent out for soda, I cant get the stuff to cut any real rust, its just to soft but it wont hurt anything, I did most of my 40 in soda and got the DA and the spot blaster out and went to town on it. Keith
Soda sucks, we use only aluminum oxide. used correctly it will not warp sheet metal & removes all contaminates paint, rust, bondo, etc
So tell me what do you do with the discolored areas ? I was told to hot water wash,dry, scuff with some 120 and prime. But it doesn't seem like I should be priming over the discolored areas, I mean what is it if it isnt rust? I guess I should have picked aluminum oxide rather than soda to begin with.
You didn't state how much you paid but I think for soda blasting, it looks like I would expect. Soda doesn't get into the pits like other types of media.
this what it started like. I just think the guy should have changed media or called and told me he couldn't get it clean and I could have went elsewhere...... http://s90.photobucket.com/albums/k249/hotrod363765/40 buick/?action=view¤t=P1180056-1.jpg
You've got a valid point. The guy should have called you after doing a panel or two and had you come down to look at it. When I had a shop, that's what my guy did. At that point, it's on you as to continue or change media.
I agree with what you say about him calling you as soon as he saw that much rust. It really is a wasted job because the rust still needs blasting.
I guess it all depends on what you contracted for in the first place. If you went in and told him that you wanted the paint removed, then you got it. I think that the job is exactly what you would expect for soda blasting...no paint and no panel distortion. Without knowing what you told him to do it's hard to fault the guy or the process. I'm a body and paint guy so I guess I am looking at this a bit differently...I'd be very happy to get a body in this condition to begin work on. It's much easier to go over that body with some rust remover and a stiff brush followed by a DA with some 120 than it would be to straighten out panels that were warped by a gorilla with a industrial sandblaster.
Soda blasting was made for stone and masonry work not for cars. Soda cleans by exploding on the surface it strikes and knocks off anything on the surface, it will not remove rust. It also leaves a caustic residue that must be neutralized completely or you run the risk of paint delamination. For that reason alone we will not paint over any soda blasted metal. We blast in house and use a crushed garnet that is almost a dust. Couple the fine size with low pressure (say 50 to 60psi) add an experianced operator and there will be no distortion. I wish people would stop using soda, and I think with due time they will. It was great for the Statue of Liberty but not for our cars.
That is the way i did mine and i thought it was great.have pictures but know how to get them on here but will be traveling coast to coast in it next summer i hope sp1ke
Soda blasting is for removing paint ... I used it on the race bike frame ... most times it used when the glass is left in the car as it not supposed to etch glass ... too soft to remove rust ... nice part is that water will clean it up from the driveway.
It looks like it is blasted and left like that for a day or two. I sandblasted my hudson(took me two days) the second day there where some spots that i did the first day that looks like surface rust... blast it and pait it soon as possible!!
It looks like it did what soda is there to do, remove paint. I've had 2 cars now soda blasted and they all show where the rust and bondo was. Its kinda like cheating on the body work.I would do another in a heartbeat. It tells right where the problem is. What your car is showing is the cause for the bad paint that was on it. The surface prep wasn't good, so the paint didn't look good. Paint and body is a patient man's game, if it was easy everyone would do it.
Soda does NOT tough Rust. period. So it looks like it should IMO. now if you specified to him you wanted it CLEAN, then you have a right to bitch, if not, you should have been more specific.
not to highjack the thread here, but what would be best for removing paint from a motocross engine? i dont want to take the motor apart; just block off the intake, exhaust, shifter and kicker oil seal areas. Lower end is aluminum. cylinder is finned cast iron. Not a speck of rust. Just needs refurbishing....so it looks nice with the freshly-powdercoated frame....
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