loose threads in fuel block,how to fix ?

I have an aluminum fuel block that I want to use,but some of the threads in it are loose. Once I screw the hose nipples into it I don't ever plan on taking them out. I was thinking about putting JB weld on the threads and screwing them in. Do you think that would work,or is there something better? Don't want to go the heli coil route and don't want to buy a new block.

 

Tap them one NPT size bigger. If its 1/8" make it 1/4"NPT if its 1/4" make it 3/8" NPT.

Or weld it up and re-drill and tap.

 

go a size up with the fuel nipples use the same size hose.

 

i wasn't sure if they made Helicoils for pipe threads , but a google search found that they do. i'd probably go that way over JB weld , even though it is fuel resistant and would probably be fine

what size thread is it?

 

Already bought 1/8 NPT chrome plated brass nipples---threw packaging away--can't return--would like to use them will only be running 2---21/2 lbs pressure

 

could you maybe make a spot for an o-ring to sit up by the top end?

 

If you can machine the block shorter which would allow you to drill and tap deeper into the block.

 

go up one size then bush it down to the size nipples

 

You can fix it without resorting to JB.

Find some 1/8 to 1/4 NPT adapters that have the hex. Retap your block to 1/4, then screw in the adapters with a sealer. Then carefully saw off the hex part and file the adapers to be flush with the block and it should be barely noticable. Then screw in the new 1/8 fittings you have.

You may need to tap the internal 1/8 thread a little deeper after shortening the adapters.

 

It just seems strange to me that spending all of the time and money to build a car that you would chance burning it down to save a few dollars on a new fuel block.

Most of the suggestions on how to jury rig a fix would probably work but just buy a new one.

 

jury rig?

 

X f'n 2


Man, wth...nobody can FIX anything here without the 1-800 crowd acting up?


I just assumed this was a vintage block worth fixing.

 

I've always heard good things about JB weld they say you can drill & tap it so I just thought maybe it would work for me --Have you priced a fuel block lately? If not JB weld,I'm sure there must be something on the market to take up some slack in threads

 

new ones probable [likely] made in china. threads, finish, fit better?

 

JB Weld is a good product, but I wouldn't risk setting my ass on fire just to use it. Drill it, tap it the next size up like these guys told ya and be done with it. Shit I could have already fixed it in the time it took to post all this crap.

 

Jury rig. Old navy term I believe. ie to get you home when things are bad.

 

anyone ever use this stuff?

SEAL ALL
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^^^^ Use it all the time with small engines, works great.^^^^^

 

the tough part of answering your question is were not holding it on our hands and don't really know how loose it is, you may just have some crappy barb fittings, maybe some gas fitters tape would be enough, take some pics so we can see what your dealing with, i have used seal all many times but never on a barb fitting, if it were mine i'd just make my own barb fittings.

 

If you don't want to fix it properly, then invest in a good fire extinguisher. They cost about as much as another fuel block. You have received several good suggestions and you keep looking for a quick fix. Why ask for suggestions that you reject?

 

Can the block be counter bored so the fittings go in deeper?
Finger tight a fitting into block and show us a picture of it...
Smokey

 

I'd stay away from all of the "Mechanic in a tube" fixes. Seriously.

If there's enough meat in the casting, go the next size bigger. Otherwise go with an insert

 

I'm not rejecting any suggestions,and I appreciate them all,but there is no harm in getting different opinions---that is how you might learn something you didn't know

 

The politically correct police changed it to jury rig, but "jerry-rig" would be the traditional term.

 

here are pics,they are screwed in as far as I could by hand---you will notice that a couple are all the way in and a little shaky-----I probably will drill & tap them out to 1/4" NPT and use reducers,but good to get opinions
THANKS