Model A roof insert - FAIL -sorry no video

Plan A- Tried rolling a roof insert today with my cheap piece o crap e-wheel for my A coupe, and failed miserably, so much in fact I won't even post pics to avoid further embarassment.

Plan B- Soft insert.

Anybody else fail at this? I hope I can blame the equipment!

 

A poor craftsmen blames his equipment!

What went wrong? tough to steer you in the right direction if we don't know what happened.

 

slow and steady on an e wheel takes alot of practice.Lazze has some good youtube videos on rolling a large low crown panel.

 

I probably went to aggressively on the tension, it left some deep trenches, plus even though I had a rolling grid lined out on the sheet and did everything even it differered throughout the panel somewhat warped like. The roof also needs different crown in different spots and getting the feel for where it needs to crown more or less is tricky. Its alot harder than it looks. Its my first crack at the machine and should probably work up to size and practice on smaller panels. Sheet metal is expensive though.

 

You said it all. It is harder than it looke. An Englidh Wheel is a tool like a hammer or wrench. There is no "Magic" other than the understanding of how it forms panels and the practice to learn the techniques.

It is easy to over stretch a low crown panel. Something large like a roof insert is not an easy pael to roll by yourself. If you have too much pressure just the weight of the metal will cause the panel to droop over the lower anvil. Attached is a guide to basic tracking patterns to achieve different shapes using a wheel.

The tracking patterns shown are exagerated and will be MUCH closer in actual application. Practice is the key and even though steel is pricy you will need to not be afraid to make scrape to learn.....

 

Check out the lazze youtube video it helped me learn where to mark for the crown before you start.And take your time the metal moves more than you think even if you don't think you have enough pressure.

 

A recent thread on A coupe donor roof, they used a Maverick roof skin turned backwards. Also some said Corvair roof skin.

Me? ..I'd try donor metal because I never used a wheel either.

 

As F&J said..i would go the donor route too
but thats mostly because i dont have the equipment, I also like the original look and roof so more than likely it will be the route I take

 

I wrecked a nice piece of steel on a GOOD E wheel once, keep trying.

 

I wanted to get a donor, but how to get it off at the wreckers? They don't allow compressors or torches in. Take a day and chisel it off with a hammer?(no thanks).

 

Cordless sawzall - been there done that!

 

good idea, probably more money to buy than another 4 X 8 of 18 ga though, hmmmm, decisions.

 

With a low crown anvil and very light pressure will get alot of your tracking marks out.Since you have bought the sheet metal you have nothing to lose but time and you will gain some experience.I'm no expert as i'm learning just like you but i stopped and watched alot of youtube videos and went at it again and now its starting to make some sense after more practice.

 

I want to meet the guy who had a first time successful E-wheel project. Like anything, and I"m sure there are those who are tired of hearing it,........................practice.........practice..........practice.

Frank

 

Few car building crafts take more time to master than wheeling. Stick with it!

 

I made a replacement roof section for an OT mopar on an Ewheel. It takes some effort, but you will get it. Do you have a plannishing hammer? I like the P-hammer, it makes quick work for large panels, but you have to be moving all the time and really watch the pressure. I use the hammer first, then smooth it out with the wheel, it works for me. for heavier crowns, like the corners, the p-hammer is fast for roughing it out, then blend it with the wheel.

 

marked for reference

 

did you trim it to fit close? then the trick is not to roll through a 1'' perimeter. that 1'' un-rolled perimeter will help hold the shape.

 

I took some very long extension cords to the junkyard. They didnt mind me plugging in and it worked just fine.

Another time I used a roof off of a 66 Chevy Nova 4 door. It laid on my Model A coupe roof perfectly, no metal work needed.

To the OP, I say, get that 'ruined' piece of metal out and work it some more. Its probably NOT ruined. You just gave up before you completed the job.

 

You can do it with a bit of determination. I did this insert with a HF wheel and about 10 min of experience on it. I would strongly suggest 2 people handling a piece this large.

 

that looks great kirk.

 

Why bother. The junkyards are full of thousands of different cars and trucks waiting to be crushed. Find one which has the right profile. buy a batterie powered angle grinder / cutter which will have it's future uses too.
Cheap and you can be sure the profile is a spot on mirror image left to right. Bonus - it even comes painted!

 

Or get one here http://waldenspeedshop.com/products.html

 

Walden's pieces are second to none well worth the $$$

I seem to get a bit more satisfaction on doing things myself.
(1) 4'x6' sheet of 16 ga aluminum= $75
(1) cheap HF english wheel roughly $350
(1) LowBuck tools 3" louver press head around $350
Scrap metal laying around, an I-beam in my case cost= FREE
1 full day building a louver press, rolling the insert out on the wheel then layout & punching of the louvers.

Time= eh, who knows? What I do know is that even if you find a donor lid you still have to cut it out and graft it in the hole which would be the same amount of time to make the darn thing. I've got just under $800 into the insert and I now have a louver press at my convenience. Hell, it prolly woulda been close to that amount just to have that amount of louvers punched by a shop.

 

You'll only have to buy the Sawzall once. How many sheets of 18 ga ya gotta buy before you get it right?

Bob

 

I've been going back and forth with this myself and have decided to go soft top. I'm going for a less "custom" look (body-wise)...... the drivetrain will do the talking.

 

How about pictures of the louver press? Looking to build one myself.

 

Looks great Kirk! You're way ahead of the game.

Walden lists a 33-36 Ford sedan insert @ $1500. There's no arguing the quality, but it's about $1000 beyond me. I spend less than $1500 on entire running donor cars.

I'd also like to see some pics of your louver press.

 

This is the only pic that I have at the moment while I was building it. The lower die has yet to be bolted on then you just cut the center of the mounting plate out and you have perfect alignment. Not that it's recomended but it'll punch 16 ga steel without a problem.

 

There is a thought process here ^^^^^

And there is another type of thought process below.