I'm working on my OT Case tractor and am having trouble removing a sending unit from the head. The sending unit isn't detachable from the gauge in any way that I have found,so this makes using a 6 point socket a no go.I can get the sender out by cutting the wire but I don't want to ruin the gauge so I'm looking for away to remove the sender without cutting the wire. I have tried using a tubing Wrench but the sender wants to round before the threads budge. The threads appear to be pipe threads (tapered) so once I can budge it I think I'll be golden! I'm not sure if the photo will show but the head casting stands above the threads making it difficult to get a straight bite on it with a wrench,pliers or vise grips.I'm a bit reluctant to heat it in fear of damaging the sender. I know there are some REAL resourceful folks on this site, any suggestions of ideas that I've missed? (please spare me the sell your Case suggestions)
Soak it with PB Blaster then try cutting a slot in a socket for the wire to slip through then after you have it in place, put a couple of hose clamps on the socket to keep it from expanding.
What wrench size is the unit? I have a set similar to this that I have found invaluable. got mine at Sears. http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt...matic_ap_7801_sensor__sending_unit_socke.html
I think you are going to have to bite the bullet and cut the cap tube. Pics is a little unclear but it is likely a two piece affair the cap tube screwed into an adapter that has the seat and pipe thread to go into the block. so there are actuall two pieces that you'll have to unscrew individually. If the cap tube nut isn't loosened then if you get the adapter loose it'll want to 'wind' up the cap tube since it can't turn. If this is a critical one-of-a-kind item heres what you can do. Cut slice out of a sixpoint socket, wide enough for the cap tube, and weld a handle off to one side to turn it with, in effect you make a deepwell tubeing wrench. Good luck, i love an old tractor.
Those slotted sockets are pretty neat. You might also be able to heat and bend a flare wrench so that it will seat down around the casting.
I think the key is to get apply some KROIL to the threaded area and let it soak in. A mixture of 50% acetone and 50% transmission oil is suppose to work well also. Then... I wonder if heating the cast iron threaded area and "wicking" candle wax down into the threaded area would work. Could you use a crowsfoot wrench? Those slotted sockets really look like they might work.
The sending unit is 5/8" and I' not sure if you can tell from photos but it threads into a bushing that i think is 7/8" to 1".The sender threads to the bushing,the bushing threads into the head . . Those slotted sockets look like the concept, I have some duplicates in those sizes in my impact sockets I may try to slot one myself. If not there is a Sears about 1/2 hr away. Thanks for the help guys I see on a regular basis that there are a bunch of guys on here sharper than me...proven again!I wish I'd have known about those sockets a couple of sender/gauges back.
Thanks,right you are that is why I'm posting here instead of out looking for a new gauge like a younger Rustdodger would have been.
How about one of those pipe wrenches for installing and removing faucets in sinks where there is very little working room. The spring loaded wrench head self tightens and flops back and forth 180 degrees so you can tighten or loosen a stubborn stuck nut or pipe with very limited room. Put a breaker bar on the other end of that and it will turn. Especially with a little heat. You can get those wrenches at Home Depot for $10 if you don't already have one.
The slotted sockets combined with patience and Kroil can get these thigsd out of the Case head - it took me close toa week to get mine to come undone. If the worst happens the gauge can be repaired by any number of the guage rebuilding comapies, buut costs in the area of $125 or so. Not an uncommon problem with old tractors and old cars. Heat is not good unless it is kept low to only help the penetrant to work its was in. The end can easily handle high water temps, but try to keep heat under 250 degrees so the solder jont does not melt out.
Thanks,right you are that is why I'm posting here instead of out looking for a new gauge like a younger Rustdodger would have been.The slotted socket (home made w/clamp)worked like a charm!!! Thanks guys the HAMB is the best!
ditto. Very gently with the heat so you don't damage it, sometimes heating will help to draw the penetrating oil down into the threads good luck!
hmm if it was me after lube, heat and proper tools at great expense,time, this wire would be broken off then when all these pipe bushings and sender nut are worn round or broke i would be drilling it for a EZ Out then when that broke off i would be trying to remove the head when those bolts are removed except the one that broke i would be pushing every thing out side then i would give it away 1/8 turn tighter to crack it loose? some time the whole gauge unit will need to be off so the whole thing can rotate with the nuts a helper may be needed to do this.. now does this thing run? engine heat can be your friend here once warm up to temp.try the methods others have spoken of isometimes have seen guys warm stuff up then shock it with compresed air to shrink the fitting good luck gosh i type slow never mind..
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