So I found a manifold for my 4-71/ 327 project. Now I'm gonna start looking for a snout and v-belt pully's. Don't really like the look or price of the new billet snouts. What I need to know is if I run it on a old Crager 4-71 manifold what length snout do I need? We're the sbc Cragars all the same or should I just wait until I get the manifold here and can put it on the motor? Thanks for the help as always.
I'd wait to be certain. Just FYI, the snout I used on my 4-71 Weiand intake was 7.5" long if I remember right. Got it from Dyers. I think the snouts are all made from a billet. What else were they ever made out of?
I just traded cars for this one with the same set-up you are talking about. If there are any specific measurements or pictures you need, let me know. Thanks.
The trick to finding front snout length takes a bit of measuring and everything but the snout. First, mount your manifold and blower to the block. Then, mount your lower crank hub. (yes, buy a crank hub. A regular harmonic balancer won't cut it.) Remember to factor in the width of your lower water pump pulley. Next, take a yardstick or some other kind of straight edge and lay it on the pulley mounting surface of the crank hub facing straight up in the air verticly. The straightedge will besticking straight up by your face. Now, measure the space between the straight edge and the front cover on the blower. This space will be the length of your front snout assuming you use the same width pulleys top and bottom. Remember, most Gilmer and 8mm pulleys are shaped kind of like a coffee mug. You can flip the pulley one way of the other on the drive snout and the belt will ride about 2 inches in closer or out further depending on which way you have it flipped. Then, you will need to make or buy an idler pulley bracket. Make sure the idler pulley lines up with your other pulleys in both x and y axis. Also, make sure the belt is nopt going to contact anything, like th ewaterpump pulley... Good luck and keep us posted, -Abone. PS. Congrats on teh intake score. They are kind of hard to find. Make sure it has a pop off valve. If not, you can retro-fit one. Not a big deal, but it has to be on there.
NIce score Bonesy...looked awfully familiar. Snapped this shot in the parking lot of the Nugget, Bonneville 2009.
That snout is AWESOME!!! It's a Cragar too right? I mean I don't like the ones like they sell on Ebay that have no character.. I like ones like that or ones with ribs or you know something with some soul. Guess I'll start looking for a hub and some lower v-belt pully's. Thanks for the info again guys.
I'm getting this one ready for a future project and had a Weiand intake before I found the Cragar to match all my other parts. The alignment was exactly the same on both intakes but I don't have a crank hub yet. BTW, all this stuff is going on an earlier engine than shown.
As flamedabone said, I would buy the other stuff first and then measure for the snout. I think as you can see in the pictures bonesy's snout is longer than mine (damn I hated to say that).
That motor reminds me of a old Monogram model kit called the "BIG DRAG" with the same blower setup.....
Any recommendations on what hub to get? I saw Summit has ATI ones. Never heard of these until recently. Anybody got pics of one on a motor ?
Anyone made their own snouts??, i'm kind of wanting to put a cheap setup togather to playwith on my daily
Looks like you can play a little bit with snout gear "offset" some to get it dailed in for length....................
I have a 471 on my 327 in my 32. I am also running a crager manifold. Mt snout is 6 inch, but I am running a 2 inch belt. I am not running a harmonic balencer, and my alternator pully is mounted behind the blower belt on the crank.
yes the snouts are interchangable, but a shorter blower requires a longer snout...there's a joke there somewhere
Get one from a blower supplier like Dyers or somebody maybe you can find one used. I had Dyers make up my complete drive set up (2" Gilmer) which was not cheap but everything went right on and lined up perfectly.
So can I run a cranck hub with a triple v-belt drive and be ok? I like a gilmer but the triple v would be very "period" for my 63 and not near as common, I hear it's cheaper to set up, and since I'm not gonna tear the engine down to have another keyway cut but don't wanna have issues with it I'm thinking the V is the way to go. I'll only be running 4-5 lbs of boost. I like the crank hub for simplicity and looks as well. I find v-belt pully's in 1,2,or 3 belt configurations. I'll need 4, (1 for the H20 pump, alternator and PS). Would it be beter to stack a 1 and 3 pully or 2 2 belt pulleys?
IMO A. Anything less than 5 PSI of boost is a waste of time and money B. A 2" gilmer set up would easily be period correct (they were used in the 50's) C. A double keyway is probably not needed for lower boost. (Mine is a single keyway and has thousands of miles and lots of flogging @ 7psi) But you may have an issue anyway with your crank, many early 327s had a press on balancer if your does not have a bolt on you are going to need to have that drilled and tapped for a bolt.
Unless you plan to run a very early Mopar alternator, you are throwing "period correct" right out the window.
It certainly wouldnt hurt to double key it if you have to have the crank out anyways. Maybe Im lucky with no problems on mine after 4 years. When I asked Dyers about it they didnt think it needed double keys at lower boost pressures so I went with that and have been OK.
Mine is mounted to a Weiand CV471 intake... measures 6-5/8" from the case to the center of the pulley, 7-1/2" total snout length.
Right, but while I am keeping it in the spirit of a period build I am in no way a slave to it. It's got disk brakes on the back and my Torq Thrusts are a little to big too. I'm gonna mount that Alt as far down as possible so it's not to noticeable. I might have to look into those early mopar alts though. It's gonna be a nice cruiser that's fun to drive. Will rarely be flogged if at all and since I was not involved with the original motor build I'm not gonna push my luck. 5 psi should be fine for what I want it to do. BLAKE that is exactly what I want mine to look like right down to the water pump. Any pics of the lower pulley set-up?
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