i have a chance to buy a motor from a friend its a 3970010 block with pop ups,461 heads,and a big cam well its been decked down,so no pass side ID pad so i cant be sure its a 350//327//302 are there any other ways to ID the motor i can probably take the pan off im guessing the crank will tell me?? i know if its a 4 bolt its a 350 but if its not i want to make sure i dont pass on a 302 Thanks to all CB
Without knowing the application code that was stamped on the deck...there's no way to tell without opening it up and measuring the bore and stroke (or getting a part number off of a piston) With an 0010 block...it could be a few different things, but odds are it's a 350. Besides, if it has been decked, the original rotating assembly is probably long gone, so it wouldn't matter if you could read the stamp.
thanks for all the help but if i ID the crank wont that tell me what it is if its a 350/327/302 ive bought several cars with decked motors they all had original rotating assemblies..have a 355 deck with one so chances are 50/50, whats the flywheel end going to show as far as to ID thanks cb
All 010 blocks are 4" bore unless it has been bored out?, crankshaft ID will tell you at least that it is a 350 crankshaft and not something else, like say a small journal 327 pull in it with spacer bearings, or a large journal 327 crank in a 350 block? lots a things can be done? and have been done , so at least you would know what crank is in it. Mark
probably at least 99% of the 010 blocks made were 350 engines, I'd be really surprised if it's something else...but a look at the crank flange should tell you.
i have good understanding of stroking and destroking,bore and all that but i just wanted to learn more to positively ID it but i doesnt look like i can since its decked
Actually you can pretty easily tell if it was originally a 350 or something else...what's the last digit of the date code? if it's not a 9 then it's a 350....and if it is a 9, it's still most likely a 350
We got a 302 out of a 1959 Apache my brother bought. the seller said it was a 350. We pulled it out to inspect it. All those Z28 parts, intake, heads, pan, crank flange, and DZ code on the pad made us suspicious the seller was not correct...
The flanges all look different....302 is round, 327 is slightly oblong, and 350 is almost square on one end.. Thats what the flywheel end will show Dave
Some of the 010 blocks are two bolt mains. Like the one in my roadster. I have been told the 010 blocks are cast from a good iron alloy.
the have 1% more nickel so ive read i just found this and it shows the flanges so im hoping i found a nasty 302 to run in my nova gasser http://books.google.com/books?id=Mr...um=2&sqi=2&ved=0CCEQ6AEwAQ#v=onepage&q&f=true
The block number - in this case 3970010 - is not the same as the block alloy casting codes (010, 020) that show alloy content and are cast inside the timing cover area on the front of the block.
actually the "alloy casting codes" don't tell you anything about the alloy of the block, they just tell you which block casting numbers that particular end mold was used to make. If you don't believe it...then tell me what 509 means as an "alloy casting code"?
The 010 blocks are supposedly made with a higher zinc and therefore better. They came both in 2 and 4 bolt main configs. I have one in my truck that I'm trading off to my brother-in-law. I do not know if it's a 2 or 4 bolt but I do know it came out of a '74 Blazer. My pad numbers confirms it's a 350 and it came from Flint. Pad numbers don't tell you a lot at least on mine.
This says, 68-79 327 and 350. 2&4bolt truck and hi-perf. http://www.thedirtforum.com/castings.htm Lippy
---------------- The "good alloy if it's a 010 block" is an old wives tale. All a "010" casting number suffix indicates is that the block has a 4 inch diameter bore. *Some* 010 blocks - particularly, those used in medium-duty truck applications - had higher nickel and/or higher tin content iron - but most "010" suffix blocks used in passenger cars and light trucks didn't. Mart3406 ======================
That block no. was used in 69 thru 79 cars,trucks,vettes,most of the truck engines were 4-bolt main the date code no is on the rear top of block just behind dist.got one in the shed was told it was 69 but after researching date code its a 74 truck engine, the date code is just above where the bell-housing bolts up.
That's correct,and you may need to pull the cam gear to see it.It's the nickel and tin content in the block.
I've seen 3970010 blocks with no numbers under the timing cover, with "010" under the timing cover, and with "010" and "020" under the timing cover. However, I've never been shown any definitive proof what the numbers mean.
I have two old 350 blocks in my shed. The 3970010 block has "010" in the timing cover area. The 3970014 block has "014" in the timing cover area. It's pretty obvious to me what it means, but I'm not an old wife.
Q: What is a Bowtie, or heavy duty (nickle) block and do I have one? [SIZE=+2]A:[/SIZE] Tin and nickel are two metals that are commonly alloyed with cast iron to improve durability, hardness and heat dissipation. Some production engine blocks have the numbers "010", "020" or both cast into their front face, just above the main bearing bore. (The timing cover must be removed for these numbers to be visible.) If both numbers are present, one about the other, it indicates that the block alloy contains 10% tin and 20% nickel. A single number, either a "010" or "020" represents the amount of nickel and indicates negligible amounts of tin. No numbers, other than the casting numbers that are typically found beneath the timing cover, translates to only minor amounts of tin and nickel being present in the block alloy. However, cylinder wall thickness is the overridering consideration - and a block with no tin or nickel and thick cylinder walls is generally preferable to a high nickel block with thin walls.
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