All, First, thanks for all the help. The HAMB has been a great resource in building my car. Now for another question. I have a line on a running 1949 Ford 8BA engine. Will a 1949 Ford 8BA fit in my stock 34 5-window frame or will I need some different mounts. I have a stock 34 rear end and driveline, no trans yet. Will I be able to use the stock radiator? If I go with this motor, what Trans set up should I look for. If anyone has pictures, I would greatly appriciate them. At this point Im interested in all pictures, from body, engine to wood, concerning the 34 Ford in traditional build up stage. Any and all suggestions are welcome. thanks again.
the 8ba will fit if you use 8rt pumps. not sure if the fan will clear rad tho....those are a little longer up front due to the dist mounting. have to fab top hose connection due to smaller head outlet and location. any early v8 topshift trans will work, you just need the 34 trans rear bearing retainer and rubber cushion to fit the 34 crossmember.
That's the same build I hope to do with stuff I've had since I was a teenager (more than 30 years ago). Are there any possible issues besides the fan and trans? I have an 8RT and I was planning to use an original 34 trans. Pictures of someone's 34 with an 8BA/8CM/EAB would be nice...
As jetmek said, use 8RT pumps (or use the early pumps & block off the bypass hole at the top). The '34 should have a generator mounted fan, so you'll have to use your original fan, but it will need to be spaced forward to line up with the pullies - you may also end up with mixed-n-matched pullies (narrow/wide). It can be done, but the front engine dress needs a lot of attention. You'll also need the intermediate ring on the bellhousing area to mate to the early trans. I think it's almost easiest to change over to early front dress - but that requires a cam change usually...
Way back in '62 I had a '53 flathead in my '34. ran the stock rearend a 39 tranny and used the stock radiator. There was no room for a fan. I drove without one and just kept a close eye on the Temperature guage. Sorry don't have any pictures.
I put an 8BA in my 34 PU. which is the same frame as the car. If I had it to do over I would have built it with the early cam and distributor etc. If you use the torque tube the engine the engine location is going to be pretty much where it's at. The 8BA is quite a bit longer. I use an electric fan. The front pulley clearance will be a problem with the crossmember. The 59A will nestle down behind the crossmember but the 8BA won't. Even if you cut down a double pulley. I raised the engine a little and set the 8RT truck waterpumps on fabricated mounts off the frame. I used a pressed steel 50 Merc bellhousing. Make sure you use the correct starter plate.
Ahh yes, the front pulley - I had forgotten about that. There ain't much room between the xmember & the stock pulley, so an 8BA-style will definitely hit there....almost requires the early front dress...
if you raise the front of the engine for pulley clearence, the rear will hit the firewall..... i run early parts include gnerator mounted fan on my '33 sedan
I'm not that familiar with the stock 33-4 x member. when ford shortened the wishbone in 33 did he also shorten the distance between the front and center crossmembers?? my 28 with model a frame, 32 K member and wishbone and 8ba motor has plenty of room and even has a genny mounted fan. I did have to cut the stock model A front crossmember where the rear saddle is though.
'34 is maybe the tightest Ford engine compartment...fan and forward row of pulleys will definitely have to change! Mounts: '34 mounts are too close together and a bit lower than right for the truck pumps. You need a simple spacer, simply something like a piece of box tubing with offset holes to move the biscuit up and over slightly...Ford used to sell a spacer so 59 type replacement engines would fit. Fan setup will have to be reengineered...conversion to something like 1938 front parts would be a real advantage, and a good excuse to put a cam into it...search old post under "flathead dimensions" for numbers on tightest front hardware for flathead.
I raised the engine so that the pulley is over the crossmember. The only other option was to notch the crossmember. I've got about 1/8" clearance on the firewall. The tranny was shimmed a little also to maintain driveshaft alignment. Works quite well. Actually puts the engine up a bit for the lookers. Jetmek, I hear you are kneedeep in flaheads lately! Butch
Yeah the 8BA fuel pump is different...more room. But my intake hits the firewall where you mount the fuel pump.
That rear manifold/pump area is practically a press fit on the '33-4 Ford, so select an early manifold and use '33-4 pump stand, which will take later pumps. Some messing around will be needed with all of this...but that's later. Howinhell did they go to a bigger car in '33 and wind up with no room in the engine compartment??
Bruce, Maybe the first attempt at making some legroom. The 33/34 is really a tight fit. I recommend anyone who wants to use an 8BA type block to go with the early cam and front cover. All that engineering wore me right down to a frazzle. Here's a pic Al.
Great post, lots of experience out there. Maybe Im better off just getting a (59A style), I actually have a line on a running 46, 59A. Im told that its the same size block but the front, fan belts etc, is a better fit, no motor mount mods or change in driveline. Anyone have a 59A in thier 34 Car. Thanks
Search "flathead dimensions" for measurements I posted on flathead fronts, calling out shortest 59A package. You'd use either the somewhat rare '39 single sheave pulley or any common '40-48 pulley with front flange or sheave axed, single belt, fan on gen like 1934 stocker. Frontal dimensions would be same as 1934. Same can be done with 8BA, but you have to swap cam and front hardware. Without cam swap, 8BA is inescapably longer because distributor dive forces belt placement a couple inches forward.
I bought a Flathead motor mount Kit for my 8BA in my 34 Ford Boxed frame, the firewall is already recessed on mine..I should be ok then, right?
On the 59...better fit by far, takes original style pulley arrangements as one alternative, still needs mount spaced up a bit. Consider also that if you are willing to change cams, the late engine can be easily modified to take all the early front end parts with considerable gain of space. overall fit will be same, go with whichever engine is in better shape. Ford actually sold the 59 basic type engines as '34 replacements with a small kit of parts to elevate mounts and hook the hoses.
I actually found and bought the factory ford mount adapters here on the HAMB when I was gonna put a 59-AB in my 34....sold them since..but they're still around. It'd be easy to replilcate them with 3/8ths strap bent into a "U" and drill and tap the mount holes. Sets the engine up about 1.5" or 2" and gets the spacing correct for a AB motor.
If it needs work...go to 59 cam and get a real ignition plus less length. If running and ready to use, you are stuck with the long snout...maybe start investigating whether the inboard row of pulleys fits and then see if you can rig everything in that one row.
Yeah its a fresh new 304" Stroker 8BA, the firewall has been recessed already because the 34 had a small block in it before.I'm thinking I just set the Flatty back a bit and I should be just fine..right?
Marcus, that firewall was originally was set up for a 351C and I bumped it back another 1 1/2" I doubt you need to go any further. Besides, I hate to see that checkered firewall go away... Vance
I know bro, but I think that actually the firewall might be too recessed and might look funky unless I set the Flathead back a bit and Then I will be too far from the radiator.I have a line on a stock firewall.Got the T5 To Flathead Adapter Kit in this evening..
Since this has come back again (it got "Liked" today), I realize I should disclose the alternative. When I needed motor mount spacers, I cut a couple of pieces of 2" square tube (3/16" wall) into a couple of trapezoidal shapped pieces a couple of inches long. After measuring the distince between the motor mount holes on the frame and engine, I drilled two holes in each on placed appropriately and welded in a couple of 7/16" bolts that went through the top holes.
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