Tank to soak a seized engine at home?

In my '54 Olds Holiday I've got a 394 that's got rust in the bores and won't turn over. Based on advice of my father in law, I've filled the block with diesel.

Things are going pretty well, except for now, the diesel is leaking past the rings enough that it runs out of the engine (heads are off). Even though I get this "leak down" (meaning that a lot of the rust has been removed), the engine still won't budge...It's been soaking for about 2 weeks.

I've been thinking about using a large tote, or something similiar to use as a tank to submerge the whole engine in diesel, in hopes of getting the motor unstuck.

I'm also contemplating pulling the motor (I've already got it down to being a shortblock, with the front cover still installed) and seeing if I can get some, or most of the pistons out, and then focusing on what is hopefully just 1 or 2 that are stuck worse than the others. I've been planning on honing the cylinders at the very least before running it, I'm really just trying to figure out the safest way to dissaseble it-as I'm hoping to not damage it in the process. I've rebuilt engines before, but this is the first rocket motor I've worked on.

Anyone else have a set up that they've used for this? I'm worried, of course, about the diesel eating away at the tote, and winding up with a real mess...

Suggestions, thoughts, and verbal abuse are all appreciated-possibly in that order

 

Metal 55 gal. drum.

 

My buddy had an old 327 small journal that he soaked in a 55 gal. drum for a month full of waste oil from oil changes before he rebuilt it, to free things up.

 

55 gal drum sounds like a good plan.

...any "fun" ideas for what to do with the diesel when I'm done?

 

Sounds like a candidate for a molasses bath...gotta be cheaper than diesel. I'v herd it works wonders

 

I can't find bulk molasses here in the Houston area. Anyone else have that problem?

 

I'm going through same deal... Get a PLASTIC 55 gal drum and cut it down so block fit all the way in. I'm going the molasses route because I got 15 gallons from the feed store (they'll have plastic drum too) Several threads on here about mixing ratios and soak times. After you soak it, take all main caps and rod caps off. Then using a one inch round wooden dowel rod and big hammer, GENTLY knock pistons from the bottom up towards the top of motor enough that the crank will come out. Then you should be able to flip block over and knock pistons and rods out the bottom. That's my plan anyways...

 

Take a steel drift and bust the tops of the pistons out and free up the connecting rods. It'll allow you to get the crank and rods out of the way and the motor a little easier to handle. You may shock some of the pistons loose in the process. After you get most of the piston heads broken up you can use a brass drift to carefully 'encourage' the remaining pieces of piston off the cylinder walls.

....and if the block is that bad you may well be better off finding a better one to start with.

Good luck!

 

You tried the feed stores?

http://qualityfeedco.com/

http://local.botw.org/Texas/Houston/Gales_Bayport_Feed_Supply/688499977.html

 

Go to a feed store.

OOPS! Should have read to the end!

 

Marvel Mystery Oil will cure anything . Squirt a little into each cylinder every day for a few weeks and then gently try and turn the flywheel by hand .

 

Thanks-the 394 has a lot of wall thickness, so I'm not too worried about needing to find another block (since I'm sure there's plenty of material to bore if necessary)...

Ideally, I'd like to salvage as much as possible-not too many '54 olds are at the cruise ins that I go to, and there doesn't seem to be many more 394s showing up. The power numbers for the hi comp 394 are just fine for this project-and-I'm trying to keep it "all olds", as it currently is.

I figure a 394 powered holiday coupe ought to be pretty cool to cruise in.

Thanks all for the good ideas-I have a lot of diesel handy already, so I'll probably try diesel first...I'm thinking that metal drum is probably best if I'm using diesel (and I'll attach a ground strap from the drum to a rod in the earth just to be extra careful).

I do have some marvel, perhaps I'll try that this week, as I won't have time to find a drum until the weekend.

 

Never underestimate the power of ATF. Let that shit soak. Be patient and just leave it alone for a few days.
The molasses bath is something I've been wanting to try for a while now... but I want something big enough to put, oh, say, a 31 Model A cowl in.

 

Invite your "friends" for some cocktails !!

 

I've actually put some thought in about that. Best way I can figure is a pit dug in the backyard, lined with a tarp, and covered with plywood.

Seems a dude did that here on the HAMB with three sides of his truck bed...

~Jason

 

Fill the drum with molasses and just wait. If you rush it. You will just cost yourself more money. It works really well.

 

Go to the local feed store and get a water trough.
They come in all sizes and materials.
If you watch craigslist, you might find one cheap.

Just don't let the kids use it for a mini swimming pool after you use it to soak an engine!

Old metal bath tub might work also.

 

I would pull the motor, and once out, remove the mains and rod caps, take timing chain off etc, get the crank out and knock the pistons out the top with a wooden dowel,, if they're seeping now, they'll come out,, but you may have to remove any ridge around the top of the cylinder first. Done it this way many times with sb chevy. My .02,, good luck

 

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I've done similiar to what you mentioned in the past, but since 394 parts are more expensive and harder to come by than SBC parts (I've got a 350/350 combo sitting in the corner of the shop, but as I mentioned before, I want to stay all olds) I'm trying to be real gentle.

 

I was hanging out with my dad the other day (he's into boats, I'm into cars and we fail to see what each other sees in the others passion) anyhow, we were walking along this wharf that is used by lobsterman and fishermen and there were these giant cube totes he called Exactos. They measure about 4'x4' and have a pallet type setup on the bottom for moving around with a pallet jack or forklift.
I guess new they are about $700. There were a bunch along the wharf that said stuff like "junk" and "leaks" that I've been thinking I could buy for cheap and just patch with fiberglass. The interior space looked damn near perfect for trying all the different things (molasses, electrolysis, hillbilly hottub) I've been wanting to do lately.
Although, A hole in the ground sounds kind of interesting too...

 

Perhaps you could filter the ever loving heck out of it, then use it in an oil-fired furnace for home heating. Should burn just fine.

Wait ... do any homes where you live have oil fired furnaces? They're pretty common up here in the northeast.

 

Plastic 55-gallon drums work pretty great, too. Best of all, you can find 'em free.

~Jason

 

I actually just decomissioned and replaced the oil furnace at one of my places...oil heat is not uncommon over here, but since hydro electric is so cheap, oil is certainly not popular right now.

 

so I thought the guy still had the poly container in the cage, but I guess he has taken it out. These are used for liquids, I've seen used ones going around here for like 40.00 bux per, lots of room in there and I think a drain on the bottom......and a cage for chains to lift up to move as an idea...could fit doors in these for sure. lots of you guys may have seen these things.

we live in the country, maybe these hold fertilizers, not sure if that would cause issues with any other materials placed in to de- rust or be de-rusted....

just thinkin it would work, i'd use one if I had the room in the garage

 

A guy could probably pick up an old stove oil or fuel oil barrel 250 or more gallons to use as a soak tube for larger parts. Unless the scrap scroungers beat you to them the 250 gal oval ones are usually free or real cheap around here and with a bit of cutting one would make a nice soaking vat with a drain on it.
Also, around this area they have hard plastic liners for apple bins to haul grapes or something in and those would hold a Model A cowl or rear fender or door no problem.

 

There are some really good threads on freeing stuck engines. IMO, Marvel Mystery Oil and a breaker bar with a long handle never fails. Just have to be sort of patient. Put some MMO in the bore and rock a breaker bar on the crankshaft end. Do this every day for a week or two. Whack the top of the piston with a wooden dowel to loosen corrosion and corruption from the cyl walls. Olds blocks are pretty hard. The piston will free up eventually. There are many other ways to do this, but this method lets you keep more parts.

I try to post helpful things regarding Oldsmobiles in honor of the late Don_Wow. My way of thanking Jerry for his help.

 

I have heard of a molasses bath but never seen it done or know anyone who has done it.. Please enlighten me on the details as to why this works and how well....

 

When I lived out in the country I had an old stock tank something like this. I had some french fry baskets and to soak small stuff and devised some hooks that hung on the side to hold different parts etc. It was real handy for cleaning and unsticking old stuff.

http://www.mws-d.com/ProductDetail.aspx?productid=272802

 

I have one of those blue 55 gallon drums..i use it for so many things..
I havent had to free up a stuck engine , at least not in the last 6 years or so..but it would definetly do the trick if what ever was stuck ...if it fits it soaks..