i have a 327 202 heads stock pistons mild cam 3x2 fresh rebuild......in a 34 ford pick up..not on the road yet....new recored chopped radiator....i made a shroud, tried a couple of good mech fans,the temp slowly climbs up at idle 225 230.i can bing it back down under 200 by bringing up the rpms...today i put a house fan in front of the radiator. it will idle at 185 all day with the old house fan and the mech fan....... i think i need to draw more air,but how??????? thanks for any input..... sawbuck
i had that same trouble and come to find out i needed to re set my timeing ..it was out by a little bit ...added a electric fan with the motor fan and the car runs at about 160 idle 180 driving ..but i could put a lower thermostat in i gotta 180 in there now but i could go to a 160 ...
get a better radiator? -if it's chopped, it may no longer have adequate tube/fin area to work with that fan and shroud. Are the blades half in-half out of the shroud? Are you running a thermo-clutch or some silly stamped fixed 4blade? -rick
running a 5 blade from summit steel fixed blades,tried a stock 5 blade from a an AMC......about 2 thirds in the shroud.....4 core radiator chopped 4 or 5 inches..thanks sawbuck
Are you running a thermostat? no thermostat and the coolant will circulate too quickly - as in not in the radiator long enough to cool... .
running a stock water pump pulley...how about the alt pulley can that change the revs of the pump ????
i have tried manifold vacum and ported no change.it advances the same on both ports....can it be the alt pulley ???
i know this is way off but when i worked on the hondas sometimes we'd put underdrive crank pulleys and an oversized p.s. pump pulley and it would affect the voltage output of the cars alt at times. so that being said i can see where underdriven or overdriven pulleys could affect other belt driven accsessories. if you want to try put the regular one on and see if that makes any of a difference it can answer that possible question for you and hell maybe even fix it. just a thought.
thermostat even working? I just had this same problem with a 61 unibody f100. I had installed dual 2000 cfm electric fans on it and it still wouldn't cool right. Changed the t-stat and was good as new!
Putting a lower opening thermostat won't lower your operating temperature. The thermostat will just open at a lower temperature/earlier.
Sure seems like going to manifold vacuum for the advance SHOULD change something. Like idle speed, right off, just to show you the advance is working.
I ran an aluminum radiator in my '32 with a 290 hp crate motor. It ran at 185 all day long no matter how hot it got. I had an electric fan but it never came on. When the radiator sprung a leak, I went with a copper/brass radiator. The the fan would come on in heavy traffic.
yes in turn makeing the fluid flow threw the system faster so it will cool faster i thought ? if he has a electric fan and a manual fan and the temp is still high he has bigger troubles ...head gaskets maybe intake manifold gaskets ...
No, the 160 just opens sooner allowing the coolant to circulate earlier, once the t-stat is open the coolant circulates at the same speed it would with a 180 or a 195 etc . I still say the OP needs to run a thermostat tho , Generally a 180 is good for most sbc applications .
We need more details on the vehicle in question, is it severely channeled with a really small radiator for example? .
im sorry but i beg to differ. when you change the size of one pulley on a system that lets say uses two to keep it simplel you change the speeds of both systems running on that belt. like when you have a blower on your car sometimes to up the boost you do not change the pulley on the blower to a smaller one to a point where it may slip but you can put a bigger crank pulley to make the blower spin faster. so yes changing pulley sizes on belt driven accessories does change the speed on different accessories being ran on the belt system that has been changed. for instace we would use a underdriven pulley for the crank but an overdriven pulley for the p.s. pump to make up for the difference. now the crank spins quicker and since its underdriven the p.s. pump can be overdriven. like i said it would affect alt output at idle since it wasnt moving at a higher speed than idle speed. now like i said this is a whole other animal but the idea is still the same. luckily the hondas waterpump was driven by the timing belt. now in this case im sure there is at least two belt v's for the water pump pulley so it can be driven off the crank and also drive other accessories. it might not be what it is casuing it but if he has the stock pulley and the belt or spend 12 bucks on a belt at the parts store its an quick and easy diagnosis as to see if that can possibly be the problem instead of changing fans, shrouds, or spending money on a lower temp thermostat. now for instance i had put a 3 row aluminum rad in my regal with two small fans smaller than whaat was really needed. it would get up on the temps at idle so i countered it with the fan cotnroller i had bought for the fans that allowed me to turn the fans on sooner. the only thing is by me doing that and putting a lower temp thermostat it would take forever for the car forever to warm up and that made the ride pretty shitty until it finally wanted to get up to temp. im just throwing out some different ideas as to what it may be. youve got the fan shroud covered. it may be just that the rad is to small for the system or that it doesnt have enough room for air flow through the rad through the grill. like for instance f body camaros and firebirds just like the vettes if you would get a plastic bag or a piece of paper sucked up into the fornt part of the bumper the car would heat up immediately. i had a few of those come through the dealer when i worked there. now if you still want to keep the belt driven fan for the look you can always put a pusher fan in the front part of the radiator a buy a 40 dollar controller that comes witha temp sensor that goes right into the maniofold and hide the pusher fan in front of the rad and keep the belt driven look. myself personally i would run a electric fan with a shroud and a temp controller to free up some power but thats just how i think. anyways those are just some quick ideas of what can it possibly be or not. hope that helps a bit
The alternator pulley size affects only the alternator speed. It acts like an idler pulley, as far as the water pump and fan are concerned. 200 is normal operating temperature. Anything over 230 gets worrisome. Still would like to see some pictures of the thing, so we can see something you might have overlooked?
If manifold vacuum and ported vacuum have the same effect on your ignition timing, you have the wrong port on the carburetor.
"today i put a house fan in front of the radiator. it will idle at 185 all day with the old house fan and the mech fan....... i think i need to draw more air,but how??????? thanks for any input..... sawbuck[/QUOTE] If it will cool with the added house fan blowing at it then it just needs more air flow. Bigger fan , more blades, more blade pitch,
Just going to throw this out there, I havent seen it mentioned.. Have you checked the validity of the gauge your using for the temp? I use a heat gun, and i checked it against some of the gauges and senders i have..you'd be suprised at how inaccurate they can be
The Jalopy Journal
