Battery in the trunk....please school me!

I'm wanting to put my battery in the trunk of my 50 Styleline, and need some advice. I'm going to enclose it in a metal battery box, most likely a fat 50 cal. ammo can. I've seen some other guys on here use those, in addition to other various enclosures, so that's where I started my list. I need to know what gauges of cable I can use to run it the 8-10" distance along the floorboard and up to the engine, where's the best place to ground it, etc etc.

The only thread I found on here regarding this said I could use 2 gauge or 0 gauge...perhaps look for some welding cable? Is 4 gauge not enough to cover that distance with the copper core being really fine wire?

Thanks!

 

Look into Jegs or Summit as they sale a complete kit with cables and brass ends etc. for a reasonable amount. No guess work and you know its safe. Just a thought..

 

I use welding cable, since its much more flexible than battery cable and cheaper, too. I checked the last stuff I bought, but it wasn't marked for size. It was the only size my welding supplier had in stock, so I went with it. A little bigger than your stock cable should be fine. If you know how long you want it, you can have them put the ends on it for you. I usually just melt some old wheel weights with a torch into the terminals (in a vise, of course), and shove the stripped cable into it. I use a lug style end on both ends, and use marine-style battery terminals. Be sure to ground it well. On a full frame car, I run one from the battery to the frame, a short one from the frame to the body, one from the engine to the frame, and a small copper ground strap (woven style) from the firewall to the engine. Most people who have issues with starting after a battery relocation haven't grounded things well, and this is good insurance. If you're using an old style battery (not sealed like an Optima or others), you should add a vent tube through the bottom to vent any escaping hydrogen. Also, be sure to use plenty of clamps to secure the cable...you don't want it rubbing or dragging against anything.

 

I mounted the battery in the trunk of my 1950 Pontiac. I used 1 gauge wire from NAPA cost me about $65 total for the wire. I got 13 foot of it. I grounded my engine to the frame and my battery to the frame and it starts great - Just as good as it did when I had the battery sitting next to the engine. My engine is a 58 Pontiac 370 V8. I'm running a generator also and it seems to be charging fine as well.

 

and don't forget to vent it

 

I used #2 gauge front the trunk to the cut-off switch and so on.....Most important is the ground,,,,,used star washers for good contact........I also used a old CokeCola cooler in the trunk instead of a metal box since I show my 1940 ford coupe a lot at car shows...looks like it belongs in the era.

 

Do what you want, but if your starter connection gets up to 621 degrees fareneheit you have other issues. I never had an issue doing this in 25 years. Solder, I see your point, and would never use solder. It usually melts at a far lower temperature. I usually crimp them as well, but just wanted to give another option for someone who may not have the proper crimper.

 

Yep; I have seen many cables/connections inside starters, main terminal bolt, field belts, soldered.
In the real world I've never seen a soldered connection of any size melt, even when the cable got so hot it melted/burnt the insulation.

 

Some more info on my ride. I'm running a 283/th350 combo, and no accessories or anything. I was looking at a spool of 4 gauge over at Tractor Supply that was 45 bucks, but they had 20 foot jumper cables in 4 gauge for the same price...so that's double the length for the same price, plus they're already joined down the center so I can pull them apart as needed. I already have the other mount hardware to change them to full time battery cables. Dumb idea?

Regarding the venting, do I just need to vent the battery box, or something else special for the trunk?

 

Ive built and worked on drag cars for years the biggest cause of problems is by far bad ground. On most street apps using the frame is fine although you end up with 2 extra places for connection problems. For cable always go bigger and I agree with the other posters that welding cable works great, very flexible and a very tough insulation it is usually about a 1/0 size. definintly vent it well the gasses are corrosive as well as explosive, two really bad things in your prized ride.
NW

 

Just a few things to add to the mix. Either vent the box outside of the trunk or use one of the sealed type batteries that don't need a vent. Bolt the box securely to the trunk floor, in a collision it will become a dangerous fyling object. You might consider running a short ground cable through the trunk floor and attach it to the car frame under the trunk. Run a seperate ground cable from the starter/bellhousing bolt to the frame near the starter. Clean the area of any paint or rust to make sure your ground is solid.

 

I've used Bulldawg's method for years. I do crimp. Remember the little things like paint or powder coating in the headlight mount etc. The firewall to engine ground stated in an earlier post is a good idea especially on 32's with the insulation between the firewall and the body. Good grounding is critical.

 

poboy, I may be the only one here, but, use at least 1/0 preferably 2/0. Don't go simple and use the frame for any grounding. Run your positive to a cutout switch in the trunk then to the starter. Run your full size negative all the way to your bell housing at the very least. Run separate and smaller conductors for other negatives throughout the car. I did all this in my 51 convert. I ran a #12 from my negative to a couple of bolts on both sides of my trunk. I also have another point behind my rear seat. Same under the dash as well as into the engine compartment. My gauges have a separate negative connection. As well as my tank. You will never have a problem from a bad negative if you take a little time and go the extra mile and do it right the first time. Most cutout switches also have another separate switch that can be used for a smaller load disconnect. That too is worth the trouble.
Dom

 

I got mine from a boat supply place.

 

i used 00 batt cable. Expensive but i also have 1500 cca excavator battery in the back. My motor spins so damn fast you wouldnt believe it!

 

I have a friend with a 48 Chev PU the battery is behind the seat, The ground cable melted the solder in the ground lug??????????????? started was very hot

 

Well, I originally started with picking up a plastic battery box from Tractor Supply several weeks ago....then I just started thinking that probably wasn't the best idea. Since then, I've been looking for an affordable metal alternative like an ammo can that I can vent and modify or something similar to an ammo can.

I guess I'll return those 4 gauge cables back to TS tomorrow, then go hunting for the 2 or 0 gauge. Damn, here I was thinking that *something* on my build was going to be cheap....nope.

 

I've got the battery in the "trunk" of my '35. Plastic boat battery box, went to my welding supplier for o gauge wire, Napa for lugs, with drop in solder pellets.
RB

 

If solder melts- you've got other problems.If you use a sealed battery,=no gassing. I use 2/0, and unless your making a very tight bend,as a 90,in a 2'' radius,generally you will be fine. Grounding is critical in all areas= engine to frame,body to frame,battery to frame,dash to body.... current does not flow through rubber mounts! The box will be to your liking..... make sure it's bolted down somehow.Also- grommets always thru holes! Use a handheld crimper-think like a set of prunning shears,and squeeze away,or the bench model you whack with a BFH. Add some good heatshrink to the mix,and copper lugs,and you should have no problems forever. My .02C,and I have never,repeat,never had a battery cable grounding/starting/power/voltage issue in 25yrs.

 

Why not use the plastic one you already have? All my cars have been fitted with them and Im guessing yours shoul be acid proof if thats what it is made for. My last two cars have been grounded as the others suggested. Just make sure if you go that way that the ground point is located away from where things in the trunk can knock it around otherwise you'll go around the corner, somthing may move in the trunk, damage the connectiuon and your car will stop - yes I know this 1st hand

 

If you want a nice sealed box, Summit sells their own version of Moroso's more expensive (and ugly blue) one. They cost more than a boat box, but they have a sealable lid and come with holddown hardware and a vent tube.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1231/

I just installed one of these for a customer, and I was pleased with it.

There are also steel or aluminum versions available, but they are typically a good deal larger and may not fit well in earlier cars.

 

I ended up with some super high quality 2 ga wire that was suposed to be used on a telcom apu.

I had thought it might be a little thin to run from the trunk, but I tried it anyway and it works just fine, no problem at all. I run the ground from the barrety to the starter mount bolt and ground the frame and body from there.

I use house electric service lugs for my cable ends, they work good and look clean.

 

Lotta good info on the trunk battery. The best set up I've done so far was to put it up on the package tray to leave as much luggage room as possible. Shorter cable run to the front. Grounded to closest frame source as possible. And used a dry cell battery to avoid venting and acid issues. No box needed...........

 

Use an "OPTIMUM" battery, don't worry about venting, put it in a plastic marine battery case. Welding cable works for me! Ground the negative lead to frame close as possible to battery. Install shut off switch where easily accessable from drivers seat & continue to starter motor, using small cable clamps along frame.-------Don

 

If you're going to relocate the battery, might be a good idea to install a Ford starter relay right at the new battery location. One less "always hot" wire to worry about.



http://www.airforums.com/forums/f31...rter-problems-remote-ford-solenoid-59038.html

 

Here's a solution I saw at a recent show.

It's recessed into the floor, under the pass seat.

I've been on the lookout for a flanged box like this since with no luck.

(Anyone know where I can buy one?)

 

Most BMW's have trunk mounted batterys and a heavy cable to the front.

It'll be cheap from a junkyard because nobody buys them. an added bonus is they have a neat little junction box on the inner fender [ where you can jump-start from ] all the accessories , alternator, starter etc are connected to this "box"

 

Holy Sh*t I never thought of that! **Idea stolen, would love to have that lil post for jumping

 

Bulldawg hit the nail on the head - X2

 

We custom make battery cables and always recommend a 1ga for short runs, 6-10', and 1/0ga for longer and in the event of bad boy hot rod motors another size larger. DC voltage drops rather quick in comparison to AC so size does matter! Also, we recommend using a wrap on the cable such as the poly loom or hydraulic hose wrap that is cloth, resembles old loom cover, but anything to keep it from chaffing and lighting up your ride! Stop and really think out your routing and best method to secure it to the chassis/body as you don't want a chance of it rubbing thru. In a typical street rod mount the battery where you want but in a drag car, mount the battery in a NHRA approved holddown with proper vent and remember to mount the battery sideways so that on hard launch the cell plates don't cave in to the next! A Ford solenoid is always a good idea but some gear reduction starters don't work well with them wired in the conventional method. ALWAYS vent the battery as a "gassing" explosion is BAD BAD!! Even a AGM (Acid Gas Mat) battery such as Optima, do gas some, (check thier website) and even they don't recommend them normally mounted on thier side contrae to the mini truckers styling of yesterday(again, check thier website) And as mentioned earlier good grounds are the completion of the circuit and star washers are your friend! Good luck with your project!