We're working on some semi-OT projects, bicycles, and we want to shoot them with a metalflake paint job. I've never shot flake before so this is all new to me. I know you need to carry it in a mid-clear and then completely clear it over for longevity, but other than that I don't know which tip to use, how much I'm going to need, etc. Are there brands that are preferred over others? Should I steer clear of certain types of flake? Any and all advice is appreciated. Thanks!
I was just doing research on this a while back. If you search it there is a butt-load of info on this site.
thanks for the help so far. I'll start diggin in the tech archives and see what I can come up with then move some of the pertinent info here.
Just get yourself a cheapie Harbor Freight gun. The tip is large enough to pass most flakes....spray it on "wet", so the flake lays down. Otherwise it'll take alot of clear to "bury" it, especially on a small project like a bike. @ 4 coats of clear, wetsand, then 2-3 more coats and it should all be smooth. The bigger the flake, the more clear it takes to bury.... I've only use Old School Flake and Roth flake, both with great results. I also prefer the smaller flake over the "monster" size stuff....the smaller stuff has more SPARKLE...imo.
Not sure if this works with the Big flake or not but it does on regular metal flake paint, spray on your initial coats of flake, just as you would to get coverage, then on the final coat before clear, lower pressure, then open up the fan on the tip to just barely lay some flake over the top and give it a nice misting - this will make the pattern more uniform.
Metalflake looks best when a base color close to the flake color is used and flake is at approx 85% coverage and some base color comes through. Solid 100% 'flake coverage looks kinda crappy-as when a black base coat is used. Makes the car look like a toy. Plus with a black base coat you really have to pile on the flake to cover up the black which can change or muffle some body lines-makes the car look meh. A '32 was done in R&C several years back with a black base coat under red flake and the body lines went to h*ll. So many people took that failed article to gospel and used black that it set back metalflake painting at least 2 decades. This is my opinion though but after looking at 'flake for 35+ years I have seen them all.
Here's some advice... bring it passed my shop!!! Again, lots of good info already posted. My main points mimick Josh's eccept for 2. I use HOK flake. I've seen other jobs done with some of the "other guys" stuff and I will tell you this. They make the flakes in sheets and then cut them out. So if you're using colored flake, the 2 flat sides you see are colored, but the edges aren't, they're usually silver. HOK's flakes are completely colored head to toe. The "other guys" flakes also fade alot faster. I saw a copper flake job fade to orange in less than 2 years. I know alot depends on the clear, but come on. I like to lay the flake down dry. Yes it takes more clear to bury them, but when they lay down all silly, the sun catches them at all different angles and creates a more brilliant effect.
If you wanna shoot it for a 6 pack of good beer and a Fifth of Jack, then we might be in business, otherwise I'm gonna have to do it myself. Funds are limited (see my sig below )
I suppose you are referring to Metalflake Corporation. That is how it was done back in the day. I have a bunch of NOS Metalflake brand flake and that is what I plan on using to make sure my car is period correct for the era. I believe now Metalflake is using the polyester flake just like HOK that is colored all the way through and they have used up much of their aluminized 'flake from what I have heard. The Metalflake flake that is on my car right now was painted in 1975 and it has never faded.
i'm with slowandlow on shooting flake on the dry side. too wet and it will tend to mottle. i shoot one or two medium coats and the last one (or two) are shot drier than a popcorn fart in a whirlwind. just as sinister said it will take more clear to bury it afterwards but i get a more consistent lay out this way. i wish i could shoot it wet like sinister but i either don't have his talent or equipment. (or both) i've seen guys do it like sinister and make it look great. i can't so i don't. good luck. also i use large fluid nozzles on my old binks 7's for flake. clear with a sata.
theoretically, for time and money sake, could I just shoot some Krylon primer as the base, either gray or black?
Most flake companies buy their flake from one source and just repackage it. Big mark up. Metalflake also buys their flake from this company and this company no longer makes aluminized flake-just polyester. That company stopped making aluminize flake 1.5 years ago or so. Not sure where HOK buys their polyester flake or if they make it themselves. . . There will not be aluminized flake in another year or so as supplies/leftover stock dwindle.
I have had good results with shooting the flake in a color blender like DBC500 instead of clear. DBC500 is basically clear basecoat, so it has less film thickness, then I put 4 or 5 coats of a good high solids clear over the top with some good flash time between coats. I bought a cheap $60 Vaper primer gun for shooting the flake. I think it has like a 2.1 or 2.3 tip. DAMN! if I was still in Jersey I would shoot it for you for free just for the fun of it! Do you want to get the materials and drive it to Colorado?
Hmm....All my Roth flake is colored throughout, edges and all.... And not all flake is repackaged from same supplier. As the colors don't even match between them. Also, some companies have a different shape other than the "typical" square shape of the flakes themselves...Kustom Shop has a 5 (or maybe it's 6) sided flakes.... I also like to use a base color similar in color to the flake being shot, usually lighter, as I almost always shoot a similar color candy coat over the flake before clearing, for more depth.... Another thing, between coats, lay yer gun on it's side, otherwise the flakes will settle in the base of the cup and clog up.....shake well before shooting next coats... Me too...I'll usually spray my 1st 3-4 coats fairly wet, and "dust" the last couple of coats to get that random sparkle.....of course, doing it that way gets 1/2 the sparkles on me....looks like I just walked outta the STRIP club...
The Roth flake is the newer polyester so yes the color goes all the way through. The company that I mentioned that makes most of the flake makes it in 7-8 different shapes... Square, rectangular and hexagonal an also in 8-10 different sizes. As for the color differences, this company makes 2-3 different colors for each color. I have researched most companies selling flake and they are buying it from the same parent company.
You wouldn't happen to know the name of the "parent" company would ya??? I've been wanting to try "something".....