New project F1

Gotta like a project that starts with a killer buy-in !

 

FFFFFFFFFuuuuuuuuuuuuuu.........!111!!!1

I had my abandoned vehicle title rejected twice now and just sent it in the third time. Filling out the form makes no sense at all. Fucking MVD cunts!!! I hope all those fucks get cancer.

Well, anyway, we will see what happens this time..........I have a bunch of parts stacked up, but won't turn a wrench on it until I have the paper.

 

Got a title yesterday and started work immediately, in the rain.

 

Parts I picked up today:

This is a lower cowl and two rungs for the grille:



Upper and lower front fenders and a tailgate I think I can save:

 

That gate isn't too bad. Most of the ones I come across are bowed and the top roll is smooshed.

 

I've been slacking. Finally found a round tuit and got going. This is two evenings of work after the day job:

 

I started stripping the back today at about 1PM. The spring hangers were welded ALL THE WAY AROUND!. I cut them with a cut off wheel and then snapped them off.



Three hours later I was hanging the rear end:



As always, second guess TCI's instructions and measurements. This placed the rear 1 1/2" too far rearward. I will chop all four bars and re-tap them to locate the rear end properly. I take a bunch of side photos before disassembly of the sheet metal and I marked the centerline of the stock rear end. This would have been a very quick job on a stock truck without the welded hangers, and with properly dimensioned kit. I could have cut off the rear running board mount and moved the front four link mount forward, but I would have had to add an outrigger to relocate the bolt holes on the rear running board mount. My axles won't spin with the t-bolts on the brakes tight, so something is out of whack with the bearings or the axle length.

 

Keep up the Good work.

 

Here is why my axles wouldn't spin. I bet they didn't need this seal with the tapered roller bearings:

 

I had to take a lot of breaks Sunday because it was well over 100. The swamp cooler and fans helped cool the welds and the welder. At 9PM Sunday night, it was a roller again.

Here is the welder:

 

Nice work. You must have done this a few times before, buying new wheels and tires at the start of the project. Thanks for the updates.

 

Tires and rims first isn't much of a risk. What I can't believe are the guys that will do bodywork and paint before starting on the engine or suspension........

This is my 5th street rod project, the third that I have tried to do on a deadline.

 

I must have a half million bolts in my junk bin, but I never have these engine mount bolts when I need them. I found out that a 3/8" extension fits nicely for getting this job done:





Don't need no stinkin' plasma (it was easily 100F outside at this point):





Engine mounts and trans mount are done. Some filler on the firewall, black rustoleum on that and the frame and it is off to war!!!

 

Progress:

 

your truck is looking good..........

 

truck looks great, the suspension looks top notch, keep up the good work

 

I just replaced all four cab corners and did the dash. I did some initial hammering on the fenders and tack welded the seam. This is three days progress since a long lazy spell......



Oh yeah, I also put in the master cylinder, brake lines, trans cooler lines, and a few other things I am forgetting.....good thing I have pictures. I will add more when I get time.

 

I filled the ashtray hole too and cleaned up the welds on the dash after this photo.







You can see the gap is too tight on this corner due to a hard whack on the left front fender at some point in its life. I bought a 4 ton porta power from evil HF for $78 and it has more than enough balls to spread out the door frame. I moved it a bit tonight, but want to think about it another day before I get too carried away. I have it good enough to not chip paint (primer in my case) so that may be good enough.

 

Funny thing is I was reviewing the older photos in this thread and discovered I had the lower pan that goes between the fenders. I thought I was going to have to fabricate one.

 

I really like this build..keep at it

 

looking tits.

 

Awwww-soooome. Seriously, thats cool. I hope mine turns out 1/4 nice as that one, I'd be perfectly happy. Oh yea, and the Ford looks good too.

BTW, what size wheels and tires are those, that is the look I am going for, except with WW's.

 

The rear are Coker/Silvertown/BFG 285-70-15 and fronts are 215-70-15 generics--on the F1. Wheels are off the shelf Wheel Vintiques.

Coker gives free shipping to Alliance members.

I just saw a 51-52 blue F1 in town, yesterday, with the same combination on steels with what appeared to be factory front and rear leaf springs.

Here is a pic of his truck:



I made a couple u-turns and used the company camera to snap photos. When you are putting one together, it really helps to see how things fit. I hate to think of what the date code is on his tires. They have been out of production for a while, and his were not silvertowns but OEM BFGs.

A tire this tall may not be the best idea under the rear of an AD truck. It would be difficult to get them in and out. My AD has 275-60-15s on the rear and I can get them in and out with any jack.

 

Great build and should make a sensational daily driver.great detail and keep the photo's coming.

 

I really like what your doing I have a 51 f1 I just picked up a few months ago. Gonna keep an eye on this thread to give me some ideas!

 

I just wanted to join this thread as well, as I have an f1 I am in the planning stages with.

The main thing I have been researching is the front clips, and I cant decide which way I should go.

What did you end up doing on your front for the clip? (you will have to forgive me as I did check out the pictures, but I am not familiar with the type or style, etc.)

 

The front is a CPP(TCI) Mustang II cross member, with tubular upper and lower a-arms, power rack, with sway bar. They had just upped the diameter of the a-arms, so they are stronger. You can order slightly more narrow a-arms, and should if you plan wide front rubber. I have 2" drop spindles and cut one coil off. It should settle in nicely.

You can really get good deals if you watch CPP on ebay. Get the auction number and call CPP and they will give you the same price and you can avoid paypal.

I am going to be close and will probably rub if I hit a bump while turning. The fenders are really bent and I have to finish shaping them. It may just clear.

 

I see you gave in and got a plasma cutter..... truck is looking really good.......

 

cant beat a free truck and parts rig , you are doing some excellant work on your truck ,

 

if your looking for where the truck might of been manufactured, look to see if there is a number painted on the firewall, in the engine compartment. take that number and go to the ford barn on the inernet.....those guys know where everything was made.