I know this is long but please help me out HAMB GODS! Ok, we got us a Lincoln Precision 185. It was sitting for a couple months before we got it, and then probly 2 yrs before we had the power to hook it up; so sitting for a while not being used. We finally got every thing in order and hooked up this last weekend. When I depress the pedal it doesn't arc...I mean it does, its just not concentrated in one spot, it jumps around in about a 1/4" path and doesn't come close to forming a puddle. Theres contact, you can see the connection between the electrode and the steel but its very sparatic and makes almost a buzzing sound. We're using 100% argon gas, the out put is turned up enough, the metal is clean, ground seems good; I thought it was the torch and hose cause there is a splice half way down the hose where the previous owner attached two of em together, but I swapped to my buddys hose and torch and the same thing happend. Now I heared when these welders sit for a while, things can get clogged up..can this be it? Please help me out!! Thanks fellas -Andrew
Sounds like it's not grounding. just the high frequency buzzing off the workpiece. Mine will do the same thing if I don't have the ground clamp on.
Yes, they can. First of all, I assume you have a good, uncontaminated point on your electrode. In virtually all TIG welders, there is a spark gap that occasionally needs to be cleaned and adjusted. Refer to your owners manual, or look here: http://www.mig-welders-tig-welder.com/tig-welder/lincoln-tig-welders.htm Here's an excerpt from that page: High Frequency Arc Starter Compartment From talking with customers and maintenance personnel during the development of this unit, it was noted that the number one maintenance item on a TIG machine is cleaning and adjusting the spark gap. So, to make this task easier, Lincoln developed a compartment to house the high frequency arc starter. Located at the side, it is easy to access with a removable panel that eliminates the need to remove the entire case side. Also, this isolated and shielded compartment minimizes the high-frequency arc emissions from getting out of the spark gap area and into other areas of the machine. Furthermore, the separate compartment helps protect the High Frequency spark gap from dust and dirt. Miller's TIG units have an access panel but do not have separate compartments for the arc starter.
Is the arc all blue and just runs around in a wavy pattern? Sounds like a high frequency issue if that is it. Check all settings. Trying to weld Aluminum? Should be on AC and Continuous High Freq. On steel use High Freq on start only with DC straight polarity. Make sure all collet connections are making good contact. Right tip on the Tungsten?
Make sure you have selected DC if you are attempting to weld steel. All the info you could possibly need on your machine is here : http://www.tig185.com/product/
Yeah kinda wavy pattern. Iv switched the polarity around. Im welding steel and polarity in on DC-, gas is on, brand new tungsten very sharp and it is the correct one. Right now I dont even have a rod in my hand, Im just trying to get my puddle going.
Just for reference, a college welding professor used a quick tip to determine DC polarity. He said to set polarity like the government, Senators and Representatives. SEN = Straight polarity - Electrode Negative REP = Reverse polarity - Electrode Positive.
Shouldn't have to scratch start a Precision 185, it's got a high frequency start circuit in it. ab_51Ford, here's a link to the manual for your machine. There is a troubleshooting section as well as directions for how to use it. Not sure if you're familiar with using a TIG, or just plugged it in and trying to figure it out. If the latter is the case, then you need to take a break and read the manual. http://content.lincolnelectric.com/pdfs/products/navigator/im/im832.pdf
theres an art to grinding the electrode on tig welders. needs to be pointed like a pencil- but grinding lines need to be str8 not circular.. have a welder demonstrate for you and see how it works then- circular grinding disrupts the electron flow
^^^^^^^^^The guy with no intro is right. Try sharpening the Tungsten again on the grinding wheel. Point it up and down with the wheel, NOT perpendicular, and sharpen the tip but not like a long sharp tip but not a blunt (short) sharp tip. Find a happy middle. Try that.
let me try an dress this up a bit- its ok to hold the tung horizontally to the grinding wheel and spin it to make your point- not 2 long and pointy but not short and blunt (altho there r times u want a blunt tip- but i digress) but once u have the tip u r looking for u will see that the grinding marks go in little circles on the tip- this causes the electron flow to spin coming off the tip and onto the metal, usually producing the effect u report. if, once u get the right tip configuration- u move from holding the tung horizontally to the wheel and go perpendicular (up and down as opposed to accross) and pull the tip thru the wheel like u were shaprening a knife- u should get grinding markes that run fron the tip str8 back to the base. as opposed to the circular ones- this allows the electrons to flow str8 thru the tip and to the target -No swirlling action-- if that dont work---------try gas
The Jalopy Journal
