Let's see some sheet metal shaping

Here ya go Pugsy:

Select the size radius you want & fit in the frame.
The out side pivot point also has a pin in it.



The pin locates the radius roll.



So......... fit the radius & lower it to the height of the table top with the sheet in place.



Then adjust the main roller on the out side.

Here:



& Here in the centre:



Once that is done, you just lift the trussed frame to roll the radius.

These took almost no time at all:

 

While I love my Vibro Shear, I have spent a lot of time making the dies for it.
I use my bead roller a fair bit.
To have a powered one is the only way to go.
I built mine with a 3 phase motor & a 22 rpm reduction box.
It has a VFD on it which means I have it totally electrically controlled.
I have forwards/reverse & speed adjustment, but a ramp up speed control, So it takes a few seconds to ramp up to the full set speed when I push the pedal (yes, that mean 2 free hands to control the sheet) but I have it set so when you take your foot off the pedal, it stops on the spot. You couldn't do that with out the controller. Now I have it, I would set up other equipment the same way.

 

Hopefully I get a job come in that needs to make a roll like this thing does.
I'll have justification for building one.

SWEEEET.

Thanks for posting.

 

Simple fender well

Took a paper pattern and then transfered it to two pieces of plywood. Then routered one edge.

Cut a blank one inch bigger, then sandwiched the blank between the two pieces of plywood. Then just hammered the metal over the edge.





Before pulling the blank out of the hammer form I slid the side's in between the metal and the plywood so I could scribe my line.



Then I separated the two pieces of plywood and screwed one of the pieces to the edge of the sides to hold it in its shape. Then tacked it with a mig and welded it with a tig.





Then cleaned it up a little, I didn't go overboard most all of this won't be seen.




Fitted it to the car and trimmed and welded to car.





I still need to make a body line for it .

 

Nice work Johnny... thanks for sharing.

 

Here is a couple more '36 ford fenders I've been building.








Need to build the inside half now and fit them to the car.
Jeff Dyce

 

great idea.

 

Jeff

Looks great that is your second set you have made off of that buck right?

 

Those fenders look like a bunch of work. Here's my weekend project. More here: http://http://www.hotrodrevue.co.nz/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=264

 

Sweet.

Now your little shaver is ready to sack Rome.

 

Nice work.

 

That is cool x3.

How did you do the patina on it?

 

The patina just kind of happened. I had given the bowl part a full anneal with the O/A torch part way through forming. And the rivets are 3/16" pop rivets, mashed over and the hole welded with O/A. This leaves the steel blackened, then I just Scotchbrited the whole thing and coated it with Gibbs. The black stays where the Scotchbrite cant get. It was one of those quick slap up jobs that just came out right. Any mistakes or defects just added to the effect.

 

Second complete set. These are for a 1 of a kind custom and I'm not going to be able to use the buck from here. Thanks for the response Johnny!!
Jeff

 

I love it!! I think my kid would use that on his bike for a helmet

 

The HAMB is great but this is the thread that keeps me coming back. There are loads of info here. I have read, reread, & will continue to do so. Those of you who have posted your pix & details have no idea how awsome this stuff is. Please do not become bored with showing off these talents & honed skills. I have nothing to contribute. I just want more. I want? I need!

 

Well here is some hammer dolly work for you and my special friend the shrinking disk. If I can just get it close, the shrinking disk really tunes it in.

Here is a ratty fender that was filled with a crap load of bondo.




Here is a area on the fender that was way over worked and was done terribly wrong. So then they gave up and floated a 1/2'' of bondo over it.



I worked it a little with a slapper and dolly and then went over it with the shrinking disk.Then went over it lightly with a dull file and marked the high and low spots. then worked them accordingly.





It's not perfect but it is far from needing a 1/2'' of bondo.

Here are some other pictures.






Still need to do some rust repair to the fender and weld up some cracks.

 

Looking good Johnny!

 

here's a few trans tunnels I've made for a 32' roadster..

 

I absolutely LOVE this thread!

 

I had a panel that was a little above my metal shaping skills.



I thought about it for awhile and was drawing blanks. Then I remembered reading about wire form bondo bucks. On some of the bondo bucks they reinforce it so it can also be used as a hammer form.

It was the only idea I had so I went for it. Sometimes you have to be creative to get around a lack of knowledge and also a lack of tools.

This is my first attempt using this method and it seemed to work so I thought I would share it with you guys.

The tools I used were, Mig welder, small hard rubber mallet, body hammer and some welding clamps. Pretty basic tools.

On the inside of the fender I made a wire form that was shaped close to the area I wanted to reproduce. This does not have to be perfect the bondo will captcher the shape. Then I topped the wire form with sheet metal. No need for it to be nice it is just there to stop the bondo from coming through and to add additional strength.





Then I waxed the area where the wire form will be heavily. This is used for a release agent. I mixed up a batch of bondo not using as much hardener as I would normally use. I needed some extra working time. Then I filled the cavity with about a 1/2'' of bondo. Pressed the wire form into the bondo, not all the way I left it up about a 1/8'' from the metal.

When it dried I tapped it a few times with a rubber mallet and it released.





Then I clamped a blank to the hammer form and with a body hammer and a rubber mallet, I beat the metal over the hammer form. Pulling it off every once and awhile, When I pulled it off I could see the areas that were hitting and where it still needed more hammering.



To my surprise the hammer form held up great, not even a crack. I was also surprised on how perfect the piece fit.



Here it is fitted ready to be welded in.



I will be using this method again for sure.

 

These count?

Switch holder,,


Column drop,,,



Drop, tach/turn mount and fake shifter rod/wire hider,,


Horn button,,


Plate light/3rd brakelight,,

 

Hell yea they do!

 

Groovy!

heres the column coating and polished,,





The fake shifter is stainless and is polished up now like the steering column

 

That came out real nice,can't buy that from speedway.

 

Jay that's outstanding.

 

Nice work Jay!!
Here's something O/T I've been working on for a while:


Everything you see here is scratch built. There's a couple things I'm not happy with, but I started this 2 years ago - my skills are steadily improving.
I promise to do better next time

I also promise that "next time" will be a project more appropriate for this board. The eagle eyed among you will have noticed that this is one of those dreaded vw things


Since it's all new metal, does that get me off the hook a little?
Anyway, I like how it turned out, the kids too.


now if only there wasn't a puddle of oil under it since getting it back yesterday from a complete engine rebuild.......

Later
Barry

 

Setting up pullmax for louvers.

 

how did I miss this thread up until now!!! amazing stuff.

 

True art