How much paint to buy

Here's one for the experienced guys..How much basecoat (meadow green) should I buy to cover my 56 F-100? How about the clear? Any good guess is appreciated.

 

what color primer? And what does the paint reduce to? 2:1? and the clear matter as well. 4:1? That matters as of how much it will cover. If it covers over white primer or gray primer. And the reudeced amount matters as well. What brand? Or are you just lookin for general ideas?

 

Ask the guys at the paint store, they should be able to steer you in the right direction.

 

Sorry..PPG dark green base over PPG DP90 black sealer @ 4 parts primer to 1 part reducer, with PP clear. Base is DBC-H @ 1:1, Clear is PPG 2021 @ 4 parts clear to 1 part reducer. Hope this helps clarify. Thanks

 

Thanks Philly..you're correct but frankly I trust the guys on the HAMB as much as the paint store.

 

Green is going to be tough over black. How dark is it? Forest Dark? Metallic?

Greens cover for shit unless theyre darker. To be safe, I'd get at least a 5 qts if your jambing it and all. Get more if you can. Its better to have it on the shelf, than to wish it was.

Same for the clear. I might even get 6 qts to be able to lay 4 nice coats.

 

Hey,

The last F 100 I shot ran to six quarts of colour. That's dash, under hood, door jams, firewall & inner fenders, as well.

" Picture all experts as mammals "

 

6 quarts ,I always pick up 2 gallon so i have touch up ......Only color

 

You got really good mileage out of that paint to run 6 quarts on an f 100.

 

always figure at least 7 oz per panel per coat of base and clear.

 

Wink, wink, I piss coat the under sides of some of the panels, as they don't show unlike the outside sheetmetal. Always start with a sealer that's real close to you top coats' colour especially if the colour is a light to medium base mix.

" Humpty Dumpty was pushed "

 

FRom past experience,PPG greens don't cover for shit,get 5-6 quarts,a gallon kit of clear should be plenty

 

Thanks guys..Because it will be a "driveway shoot", I have a problem with time between sealer and basecoat and basecoat and clear. Tucson can get damn hot this time of year so I plan to shoot the sealer the 1st morning and basecoat early in the next morning for cooler temp and calm air. Then wait till the following morning to shoot the clear. My plan is to shoot 2 coats of sealer, then 2 coats of the dark green base and follow with 5 coats of clear for color sanding and rub out. Any no-no's with this plan? Also I've been told that one of the biggest problems with orange peel is low pressure at the gun. I'm using HVLP gravity gun and thinking of setting the gun pressure maybe a lb. over the recommended. I've built my share of chassis and engines but this is my first try at painting so I'm a bit nervous.

 

I did a 55 F-100 recently and with only two coats of clear I used just a bit over a gallon. If you want to put that much clear on it I would suggest get two gallons. And I always crank the air pressure up a bit when spraying clear with my Sata 3000.

 

Thanks mopargnome..I've decided to buy 2gals of base and 2 gals of clear. See any problem with my time span between base and clear?

 

Check the tech sheets to verify your wait times.

Depending on which sealer you are using, there shouldnt be a problem. The PPG sealer I use is 72 hours before it needs a scuff. Deltron base is 24 hours max to clear. So start your basecoat later in the morning and your clear early.

For more info... https://buyat.ppg.com/refinishProdu...?BrandID=5d7b4ed7-f83a-4469-b68c-04551702a5df

 

Hey,

I'd suggest a dry run with the equipment you have to work with! Don't wait 'till the day of the shoot to find out your compressor & gun won't shoot a full wet pass of material. Also paint material gets kinda ''bitchy'' at high shop temps and sometimes it's just best to wait for cooler weather. Any way in hell you can shoot the base in the a.m. & your clear that same p.m.? I've never liked long windows of drying time in hot weather.

You can do this!

" I like the old millennium better "

 

All the suggestions have been spot on. The only one I have not seen is: I hope you're gonna shoot it in the garage, or under an awning. The clear will most likely have severe solvent pop (bubbles trapped in the clear) if it's shot in direct sunlight.

Just my 2 cents...

 

Really good info..Thanks guys. stroupedesign, that's the first I've heard of solvent pop. Good tip. I'll paint in the garage. Does the solvent bubble due to the metal getting too hot?

 

No, it's due to the rapid drying of the clear. The surface of the clear dries faster than the inner and creates a skin. The evaporating gases can't escape and get trapped causing little bubbles.

 

do your sealer, let flash put a coat of base on. nib that in about 15 mins. its always faster to nib on base thats fresh, then fresh sealer,esp. if ur using dp epoxy, shoot the rest of your base. then clear at nite. i do member ppg having slow reducers. dt 895 and maybe a dash of retarder ( if its really that hot)

maybe start spraying at 4am? and have it cleared by 10? or is that too hot by then?

 

Thanks sik..I can do the times..what's nib? Should be around 85-90@ 10:00am Bill

 

In Az people have to replace ac a lot. You should be able to pick up a used blower fan to vent the garage cheap or even free. Dont even think about painting without some kind of exaust fan. No only possible fatal but screws up your paint job with over spray fallout.

 

I would only spray one coat of sealer. A lot of your orange peal can come from your sealer. Nibing the first cost of base is a good idea.

 

Don't understand the term nibing. Are you saying spray the base one coat then lightly remove any imperfections then seal those areas and spray the base over them?

 

One last dumb new guy question. I've been told that the mfgrs recomendation on pressure at the gun for HVLP guns is really too low. Any ballpark setting for a gravity HVLP with a 1.3 tip?