Register now to get rid of these ads!

Projects 26 T Roadster Pick Up build Thread

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Blue One, Mar 27, 2010.

  1. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,459

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Model T pictures 114.JPG Model T pictures 115.jpg Model T pictures 116.JPG Model T pictures 118.JPG Model T pictures 119.JPG Model T pictures 117.JPG View attachment 937443 Well, you may recall in my intro I posted pictures of a T bucket body I had bought. This is gonna be my first build from scratch after many years of wanting to build a fenderless roadster. (Done lots of car stuff over the years, mostly bolt on.)

    Today I took the body apart partially and squared it up. It originally had some metal work done and the work was done nice enough but the rear of the body was crooked, so the whole body was off center 2 1/2" towards the drivers side.

    So I removed the rear of the tub and the crossmembers then lined it up to a centerline on my jig table.

    I had decided to widen the rear section of the tub so that it could reach the outer edges of the bodys side at the rear corners. Since it was originally a tub front section, the curved back of the body was tucked inside the sides of the body and the square lip where the rest of the touring body would match up was exposed.

    So I widened it 1 1/4" but cut it to put in a 3" wide piece thinking it would be easier to weld and dolly afterwards.

    I welded the strip in with my jewelers gas torch and then welded the rear section of the tub back to the body with the Mig.

    Here are a few pictures, I have a couple shots of some parts I cut out (they do all have a place to go !),along with the front axle goodies too :)

    Larry
    Edit
    As you follow through you will see this build has evolved a great deal since the start as they usually do.
    :)
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2017
    alanp561, HOTRODPRIMER, rab71 and 3 others like this.
  2. Vendome
    Joined: Mar 18, 2007
    Posts: 130

    Vendome
    Member

    Looks like you have all the right pieces for the puzzle except the frame! Are you going to scratch build one?
     
  3. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,459

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Yes, I am gonna scratch build the frame from 1 1/2" x 3 rectangular tubing.

    Also gonna scratch build the hairpin radius rods when I get my new Miller Diversion 165 Tig machine this week. :) Lots of stuff to build.


    Thanks, wasn't sure how it would turn out,but it went well.

    Larry.
     
    HOTRODPRIMER likes this.
  4. alwaystiredlong
    Joined: Jan 1, 2010
    Posts: 116

    alwaystiredlong
    Member


  5. sota
    Joined: Oct 14, 2006
    Posts: 717

    sota
    Member

    Very nice build!
     
    HOTRODPRIMER likes this.
  6. Very nice workmanship and looks so much better done that way.
     
    HOTRODPRIMER likes this.
  7. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,459

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Model T pictures 120.jpg
    Thanks I think so too.

    Here's todays accomplishment. The cowl vent is gone and filled in.

    I'm finding that this is the way to do it, tackle one task at a time and eventually I'll have a car :D

    Larry.
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2017
    HOTRODPRIMER and volvobrynk like this.
  8. pkbjamn
    Joined: Dec 15, 2006
    Posts: 7

    pkbjamn
    Member

    I agree completely about the "get a little piece done and eventually you'll have a car." I'm finishing my 55 Pontiac gasser over the long South Dakota winter. I promised my kids that I'd take them to school in the bitchin' hot rod before the school year gets over. I still need to make the passenger side fenderwell header, install the shifter and the gas pedal. It will fire up after that.

    Keep at it; your project is way more involved than mine !!! It looks pretty cool, by the way.
     
    HOTRODPRIMER likes this.
  9. inch at a time
     
    HOTRODPRIMER likes this.
  10. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,459

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Here is todays little piece of the puzzle.

    I cut the mounting flange off of the original dash with my jigsaw and a metal cutting blade. Cut it just below the curve.

    Transfered the shape to a piece of 1/8" sheet stock (much thicker than the original dash, but it added to its ability to stay straight when welding and will stiffen the dash and cowl etc.

    The bottom lip is a piece of 1/8"x 1 1/4" cold rolled flat bar.

    I welded it all up, ground it down and finished with a sanding disc.


    Here are a couple pics, one with it trial fit in the cowl.

    Larry.
    Model T pictures 122.jpg Model T pictures 121.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2017
    alanp561, ls1yj and volvobrynk like this.
  11. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,459

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Another couple of photos of the dash, after a little more cleaning up and bead blasting.

    Larry.
    Model T pictures 123.jpg Model T pictures 124.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2017
    alanp561, HOTRODPRIMER, BigO and 4 others like this.
  12. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,459

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Probably time for an update if anyone cares :D

    I have been busy planning and making parts as well as gathering parts.

    Did the rest of the initial metal work on the body, reshaped the lip on the rear of the bucket.

    Started the chassis, got a couple chunks of 2 x 6 x 1/8" rectangular tubing and made the side rails.

    I put a taper going towards the front and also did a 32 style reveal in the sides of the rails.

    When I set the rails up and install the front spring crossmember, it will be right at the ends of the rails, the 29 grille shell will sit right on top of it and the front axle will be a few inches forward suicide style.

    I plan to bend the rails out ever so slightly to follow the slight curve of the body and the rear will get an 8" kick up of appropriate length for a 3' pickup box.

    Here's a few pics.
    Larry.
    129.JPG 130.JPG 131.JPG 132.JPG
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2017
  13. I like the frame rails- going for the "TT chassis" look?
     
    HOTRODPRIMER likes this.
  14. burnin53
    Joined: Mar 22, 2009
    Posts: 597

    burnin53
    Member
    from cuba,n.y.

    Nice work! It's lookin' pretty good so far. What are your plans for the drivetrain? What's the stance gonna look like? I'm workin on a 26-27 roadster myself,although it looks like you started with a lot more body than I did.Please keep the progress pics coming!
     
    HOTRODPRIMER likes this.
  15. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,459

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Never thought of it from that angle, just like the depth of the frame and the 32 style reveals look good.

    I have a 302-C4 from a 72 Maverick as well as the Maverick 8" and driveshaft too. Gonna build it as a 331 stroker and eventually a Tri- power intake.

    The stance will be pure hotrod with the front low and a nice rake.

    The look I'm going for is similar to the Shadow Rods XL 27 LRHC (Low Ride High Caliber)

    http://www.shadowrods.com/pdf/lrhc-with-pricing2-LOW-QU.pdf
     
    alanp561 and HOTRODPRIMER like this.
  16. Didn't see the reveals- looks good!
     
    HOTRODPRIMER likes this.
  17. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,459

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Well here goes, time for another update. Sorry about the mess my little shop is in, have been busy fabricating and grinding, dirty work to be sure.

    I have the basic frame fabricated, made and installed the flat front crossmember along with a plate style arrangement to hold the spring.

    The side rails are curved to the slight curvature of the 26 body and then pinched at the cowl and running to the front crossmember.

    You may notice the 32 style reveals.

    The rad will sit right over the front crossmember and will be a regular Model A style rad with one difference, the lower tank will lose 1" off the bottom.

    Smooth 29 shell will be used.

    I built the 8" rear kick-up and will work on setting up the rear with transverse spring next along with fabricating my own front and rear bones.

    Here's some pics.
    129.JPG 130.JPG 132.JPG 134.JPG 135.JPG 136.JPG 137.JPG
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2017
    29bowtie, HOTRODPRIMER, BigO and 3 others like this.
  18. stude54ht
    Joined: Dec 30, 2007
    Posts: 973

    stude54ht
    Member
    from Spokane WA

    Looken good, keep the pics coming
     
    HOTRODPRIMER likes this.
  19. thunderbirdesq
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 7,092

    thunderbirdesq
    Member

    Nice work! Looking fab!
     
    HOTRODPRIMER likes this.
  20. sota
    Joined: Oct 14, 2006
    Posts: 717

    sota
    Member

    Looking Great!!
     
    HOTRODPRIMER likes this.
  21. howco
    Joined: Apr 14, 2010
    Posts: 295

    howco
    Member

    Keep us posted please............
     
    HOTRODPRIMER likes this.
  22. Looks great!!
     
    HOTRODPRIMER likes this.
  23. j1927t53
    Joined: Oct 13, 2008
    Posts: 31

    j1927t53
    Member
    from colorado

    Great work! It looks awesome
     
    HOTRODPRIMER likes this.
  24. t-rod
    Joined: Feb 7, 2009
    Posts: 423

    t-rod
    Member

    Sounds like your front end treatment is nearly identical to mine. I'll snap some updated pictures and post them tomorrow.
     
    HOTRODPRIMER likes this.
  25. HuffDaddy
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 443

    HuffDaddy
    Member

    I like your frame. I have a '27 T coupe body that I'd like put on a frame something like that.
     
    HOTRODPRIMER likes this.
  26. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,459

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    Sounds good.

    Thanks, the frame has been a battle in itself. The side rails were a challenge getting the 32 style reveals in them, then the curves to match the bodies profile was even tougher.

    It will give a little more room underneath for exhaust etc., though.
     
    HOTRODPRIMER likes this.
  27. DR
    Joined: May 27, 2008
    Posts: 28

    DR
    Member

    Looks great...love the 27's
     
    HOTRODPRIMER likes this.
  28. I like it.

    What a great idea to make those '32 style rails like that for the T body! :D

    Sam
     
    HOTRODPRIMER and volvobrynk like this.
  29. lasctchance
    Joined: Sep 11, 2005
    Posts: 65

    lasctchance
    Member
    from Oakley, ca

    i like those rails!!
     
    HOTRODPRIMER likes this.
  30. gnichols
    Joined: Mar 6, 2008
    Posts: 11,344

    gnichols
    Member
    from Tampa, FL

    Great start! Now hurry up and get it going... can't wait to see it on it's feet. Gary
     
    HOTRODPRIMER likes this.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.