Let's Build a 265 Chevy V8!!!!!

Speaking of vette covers, i have a single that has knotches where the manifold water crossover comes across, and the wierd thing is that they look punched like factory, ive never seen one like it and a 'vette restorer friend has never seen one like it either, any ideas??

 

I hear from Chevy guys all the time how just about everything on a SBC interchanges with other SBC's, but there are a lot more differences than a lot of them know about or care to admit. Learning a lot here.

 

The set of '56 'Vette covers on my '55 truck's 265 (original engine, too) have notches where the manifold runners meet the heads, but there's plenty of room to do without them, at least on my 2 barrel engine. Dual quads might be a different story. The ancient set of chromed Keystone finned covers I have do not have them (but they are staggered bolt pattern). I'd run those if they didn't present issues with firewall clearance.

 

knotches by the intake runners is normal, but i was talking by the Water crossover also, so 4 knotches per cover

 

Couple more questions as I am getting closer and closer to getting my motor back between the frame rails.

>>Anyone use the Stewart Hi-Flo waterpumps? It's claiming 40º drop in temps and 41% more water flow? Originally I was worried about having the correct water pump on there but the more and more I dive into the build I can live with some things if it means a better running motor. They are $88.00 which is at least double compared to a regular short water pump but if some of you can verify it's value I'll get it.


>>What starter am I supposed to be mounting up to this setup? I have an OFFY adapter that mates the 265 to a '39 Ford Trans with a 168 tooth flywheel. Will any 3 bolt starter work from '55-'85?


>>I have two 12V generators that I was going to get rebuilt. One is from a 303 Olds and the other is from a Corvair I think. Does it matter which one I use?

>>I now have 4 94's on top of a Weiand (WC4D) intake. Where are you guys getting your rebuild kits for those carbs? I just got one for my Merc for $60 from Carpenters which is stupid but since it's right down the road I didn't have to wait. Anbody have luck tuning the motor with this intake? I assume progressive but have been told that with the staggered layout of the carbs that I need to run all straight for the intake to operate properly.



My purchase list for the next week or two is the following....

-Water Pump
-Mechanical Fuel Pump
-Starter
-Generator rebuild
-Holley 94 rebuild kits
-Intake Gaskets
-Engine Bolts (exhaust, intake, etc)


Another thing I wondered is if I should break this motor in with a 4bbl carb and intake and tune it like that. Then once I get it all dialed in switch over to the 4x2 intake and work on that so I know where my benchmark is set at?????

 

If it were me, I wouldn't worry about any hot shit super water pump--a sbc has got to be one of the easiest cooling engines out there. The stock 3 bolts to the bell housing style 265/283 starter is what you want for a 168 tooth 'wheel. Every Corvair generator I've seen (and I've seen a bunch) had a funky two bolt lower mount arangement that won't be compatible with your 265. Unless your 4X2 setup is already on the mark, I think that using a conventional single carb for break-in is a good idea. Who wants to have all of that work go down the drain due to gas washed cylinders? That is all.

 

Thanks Heathen. Your words are always straight to the point and right on the mark. I appreciate it!

 

Yea i'd say the water pump shouldnt make a difference, cooling is usually all about cooling capacity and airflow, its not like pumping more water is really gunna make a difference if your radiator is already as hot as the motor

 

Stock water pump should be fine. I'm running pump stock thru the 72 yr old radiator and it rarely gets over 180 even in traffic. Another vote to tune/break in w/ single carb.

 

Hi guys, I have a "59 283 thats a good runner (I know the car it came from). I'd like to run the original road draft tube but there seems to be a part missing (photo 1) could someone clarify this, or am I trying to mount it wrong. It also came with this one (photo 2) that goes under the air cleaner base. I've subscribed so when it comes time to tart up this old lump of iron I'll know what I'm looking for.
Scotty

 

I'm sure glad I found this thread as I have a '56 265 at the machine shop now. I'm going to pop in Monday before they get the cam bearings put in and make sure everything is done right. I also wasn't aware of the distributer groove issue. Is it a good idea to cut a small grove from the center cam groove in the block over to the center oil galley hole?
Thanks Tom

 

It may pay to introduce yourself on the home page, then start asking questions.
You'll find these guys a lot more helpful when you follow the "rules".
Scotty.

 

Yep. You are missing part. There is another section that is mitered and brazed/welded to what you have. It has a lip that seats to the block. I'll try to find a pic.

 

Here you go...

 

Thanks for that, now I know what I'm looking for.

 

Nevermind, I took care of it.

 

Great thread. Some of the earlier FI Corvettes had the valve covers cut for clearance, maybe fins cut, don't know about the area around water crossover. I have a set of 9 fin staggered Corvette valve covers that have the fins shaved down in certain areas for clearance, don't know if they are fuel injection 'vette covers or not.

 

Ok let's talk Fuel Pump Block off plates. What cool or rare ones have you seen for Chevy Engines? I frequently hit Bass' '29 Roadster thread for inspiration for what a 265 is suppose to look like and Kiwi Kev posted this one that was in a 1963 Catalog.



What Fuel Pump block off plates were being offered in the late 50's? Was there one supplied with the Hurst Mount? I would like something that's not generic and something appropriate for the motor and time of the car. Anal?? Yes.

 

Jeffrey i like where this is going, My thought would be ones cut out of 1/8" steel shouldnt be too out of place, or even the cheapie chrome ones they sell today, I'm incredebly cheap so i'm waterjeting myself one out of polished stainless becase i dont want to spend the $3 on one

 

Yeah I PM'd Kiwi Kev to see if he has any other unusual ones. He recommended to make one from 3/16"or 1/4" aluminum plate. He also told me to check some catalogs so if anyone has one post it!!! I might just make me a one too Shaggy!!!

 

dude - the only way you can run a trad fuel pump block off plate like that is to have a cam driven fuel pump - or am I missing something?

 

The earliest '57 fuel injected engines used the 9-fin valve covers but the air intake horn hit the top fin. The fins were cut down for clearance on those engines. That is what prompted the change to 7-fins. All later '57 engines with the aluminum valve covers had the 7 fin version. That is why the 9-fin covers are quite rare. They were only on '56 and early '57's.

 

Electric pump..... dad ran one in the late 50's w/ a Hurst Mount, so I'd say it counts as traditional.

 

Ha!!!! Probably a Stewart Warner right? I'm still interested to see what block off plates would have been available so I can get started making my own.

 

Either S-W or an early Autopulse.

 

Anybody know how to rebuild the early Harmonic Balancers that have the pulley riveted on? Is there a kit or seal to buy? I just blasted the one I have and now I need to rebuild and paint.

 

from everything ive read, do your crank a favor, buy a good after market dampner. I,m not an expert on the subject but check it out. lotsa info on the web.

 

Yeah, I've been thinking about this option too. I'm sure Harmonic balancers have come a long way. I just wish I could buy a new one with the pulley riveted on like the olds ones. Picky?

 

Dude, don't you know Chevies are for street rods? Where's my pomade?


Just kidding! What do you make of this?

 

I'm not sure but I like it!!! I know where one is for sale right now. WHat's the actual size on this thing?