I have been looking for a stearing column for about 3 months now and stumbled on to a 1967 to 1968 camaro strearing column but I want to know some stuff about it cause the bottom half of it has some weird set up on it that dosen't have a regular spline set up can it be changed if so can some one tell me how? Thanks Scott.
That is set up for a "rag" joint, Not uncommon on late models. You will have to cut that off, if youre not using an original box. It is probably a D shaft and adapters and u-joints are available from many suppliers.
The 67 and 68 Camaro's are rear steer cars and the steering coulmn bolts to the steering gear box, you can buy the other end of the (Rag joint) that bolts to the steering gear box that connects the two, it has a female spline.
Chuck the Camaro column on eBay and track down one for any pre-column lock GM car. Got to think a muscle-car guy would want the Camaro-specific one. The rag joint connector probably comes off and it's splined underneath. Most GMs are like that.
The guy I want to buy it from only wants 75 bucks for it and im looking at it to put it in my 1933 chevy coupe cause I cant afford a new column.
Yuppers, I'd put that one up for sale as if it's in good shape someone will fall in love with it and find a Chevelle style column from a front steer 68 or earlier car. he other option is to change the shaft in the column but that is probably more trouble than it is worth. What's it going into and what is it hooking to?
If I were to buy this and take that joint off and it is a d shaft can I somehow get it to were I can run it to my unisteer rack and pinnion that I have on my 1933 chevy Im only 17 and learning any info that I can get would be nice thanks Scott
$75? I can buy a column in the you-pull-it for $25... there's a '64 Nova out there now, maybe I should get that one. I'd keep looking. The rag joint connector probably has a bolt through it, take that off, whang the connector off and it will be a standard GM spline underneath. No need to cut anything. Could probably be ground down to the D format. I know that's how the '69 Toronado column I had, came apart, I still have the U-joint, middle shaft and rag joint connector on it laying here.
!!!!!STOPPING YOU RIGHT HERE!!!!! Can you afford to be alive? Would you rather buy one made in China for cheap and take a gamble on it failing while driving down the road at 75 mph?? There are ways of obtaining GOOD QUALITY PARTS cheaper. Shop around, check Ebay, etc. If you can't afford it right now, wait until you can. There is no substitute for safety. If you can turn, stop, and drive safely not only will you stay alive, but you won't be risking OTHER people's lives on the road AND you will have fun with your hot rod. Think about how much you're going to have into this car when you are done? Where do you want to focus your money? Can you afford to make sacrifices on some aesthetics to get better quality steering components? You could sell that expensive rack and pinion and go with a conventional steering box and drag link and elliminate all these costly steering components and it will be safe and simple. I have seen F1 steering columns and boxes together with the steering wheel for cheap and all that was needed was a drag link, steering arms, and tie rod. Not trying to be a dick here, but you have to think about the big picture here. It's up to you though. You car, your life.
I understand complety on what your saything it just like when I got my brake setup for my rearend I didnt buy a cheap set of stock disks I went with brembo. And rustynewyorker thanks for the info for in the future so that I know. I think ill just save up for a flameing river or Ididit column. Scott
Who's making steering columns in China, and when did they make one for a '68 Camaro? I see the point, too, but there's nothing wrong with using an old factory American steering column - or any of a ton of other parts - instead of some new 1-800-hot-rod mail order stuff. How often does a steering column wear out? I've seen them with 300,000 miles on and the tilt is even still tight. as for the R&P being expensive, I sold some NOS ones at a show for about $50 a shot. I don't think he's going to be any better off with an F1 setup, those are about $150 unless you find someone who doesn't know or doesn't care. By the time you take the old off, sort out the new, and maybe find a buyer for the R&P, it's going to be a wash. I'd just run a 90-95 GM van column, they have 2 U-joints and connectors that use a single D shaft, should be able to adapt one to a double-D.
There is a good Pick-a-part yard in Olympia, give them a call and price a column. All columns, regardless of what they are out of, are the same price. There's always some early '70's stuff around in there. Find a '70's Chevy pickup with the key on the dash, the last time I was in the yard there were two or three of those trucks. $75 is way high unless you're doing a Camaro and have to have that specific column. I'd pass.
Short on bucks, just get your steering rack where it will be and get your tape measure out and head for the junkyard. Steering isn't that hard once you get some good looks at what is out there. But if you don't know don't guess, get another more experianced person to help lead you through it. Steering is very important, no room for guessing.
I think I have one from my old '69 Z/28... I have the one key in the ignition and that's it. Oh, and it also has the "stock" steering wheel. I'll need to double check and see if I still have it.
Brembo brakes and a Unisteer rack...but now you can't afford a steering column? I appreciate that your trying hard here to get a good, safe car....but catalogs and high priced bling will put you in the poor house, as your finding out! Cheaper stuff will stop you just as quick in street use and from what I've seen, again in street use, the OEM parts will have much better durability compared to the expensive aftermarket stuff. You can use less expensive or recycled parts without ending up with a "Rat rod" you know! There are some amazing and safe cars roaming the HAMB halls that have no aftermarket chassis equipment. What aftermarket stuff they do have is for engine performance and was on the shelf in the 50's and 60's!!! It's about parts selection and construction. Brand name stuff is mostly about eye candy and bragging rights. It usually just turns me off to tell the truth...but to each his own I guess! Bottom line...don't sticker shock yourself out of enjoying the hobby! All the best and good luck with your build!
I got the brembo's 6 piston calipers and rotors from a freind that had them on a 67 nova pro modified. He gave them to me for 200 bucks with 4 brand new sets of pads. Cause im 17 and were I live jobs and money are hard to come by for me all I can really do is mow lawns and cut wood and watever I can find around that someone will let me do for me to get a real job around hear I have to be 18 witch should be a crime.
I was talking about the u-joint. Not the steering column. Of COURSE the steering column is fine. It's the U-joints that are starting to become available in low-quality forms. No reason for an Ididit. They are expensive and basically the same as a GM column but with a cleaner look. Stick with you plan and maybe just make a new cover to get rid of the plastic and such. Maybe consider just making a steering column. Get a steering shaft, put a couple bearings in a tube, put some mounts on the tube, and retain the shaft in the tube. I'm sure it's been done.
Thanks my dad has had many hotrods that he has built including a 1941 willys, 1948 ford f1 with a 8ba, and a 1932 plymouth 5 window coupe but all are gone now and Its my turn to bring something to life.
Im trying to its hard cause I got a rare car for a project and it was kinda ruff but im working it out.
You might want to re think some of your other parts as well. Brembo rear disc's are not only way overkill for this car, rear disc in general are not TRADITIONAL nor are they needed for what you are building. I would sell them and get a set of Stock Drums brakes for what ever rear end you are using. They will stop fine, you will be $$ ahead and fit the vehicle better. Use the money for critical partsd - like steering joints. Same goes with the Uni Steer rack. If you are set up for cross steer, sell the Uni steer, get a good Vega box and put the extra money back into the car. As others have said a used column from an earlier car should cost you about $25.00 at the bone yard.
Like I alluded to before, every GM full size van made since 1971 has two U-joints in the steering shaft - one where it goes through the firewall, one at the steering box. Early ones are splined, later ones are a single-D pattern secured with a bolt (they have to be spread a little to get them apart). For that matter, all of the first-gen FWD Eldorado and Toronado have a U-joint in the shaft. All splined, so far as I know. You can build on the cheap and still not be using lousy chinese junk. There are a crazy amount of GM parts that can be interchanged with one another -
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