some carburator options. The single seater was found on the web but looks very much like one Ron Roycroft (NZ) built had based on a citreon I think. Does anyone know anymore about this chev 4 powered vehicle.
Very nice looking t5 adapter. Back on the subject of the chev 4, I will have to take some pics, but the running motor I have seems to have copper tubing going everywere, i think I have most of it figured out, except on that comes from the drivers side lower block, below the carb, up over the head to the other side where the line has been cut and I am aparently failing to find what it feeds, any ideas? Is it even an oil line? It seems similar lines run to the carburetor
There is two lines coming out (actually one that is split) from the oil distributor and one goes in. One goes to the filter (goes between the cylinders) and comes in form the filter and one goes to the pressure gauge in the dash. I took a look to the pictures you posted earlier. The shots are a bit blurry, but if I understood right it appears the neither of your engines have the original oil lining. That is not a surprise. I wonder how many AC filters have been tossed from -28's during their life.
the oil lining on the engines is definatly not factory, someone did all sorts of odd jerry riggin on this thing, shouldn't be too hard to straighten out and clean up though, and I am going to try and get some better pics of the motors, the ones i have were taken by a cell phone, I am trying to find my digital camera. I am just tryin to get everything in order befor I fit it to the test stand to fire it up and figure out what is good and what is bad.
Red, The more you straighten out the lines, the more brittle they become. You might want to consider making new lines. There was a thread a while back about using copper lines (or not) and there is a product that (if I remember correctly) is copper coated steel line- much better to use!
spose I should have been a bit more clear, by "straighten out" I meant get everything working corectly and ensure that all essential pieces are in place and working. Not to physically straighten the lines, I have re run one of the lines, it had about a foot of piping wound in a coil. the rest is fine in it's current state seeings how it will all be replaced when the engine is overhauled. I will have to look into that coated line for the build though.
Hey everybody, Just picked up a '28 engine/trans (had lots of fun breaking it down inside the back of our 4Runner and onto a dolly without a hoist ). There's a stock filter on it and the original lines are there- will post a couple pics in a few days (Mrs. Yankee has the camera and the kids up in Charlotte visiting her mom for spring break)- Sorry of I sounded like a wet hen a few posts ago... this is a fantstic thread and I just want to make sure the focus doesn't get lost!
Thats completely understandable. What I would like to see are a couple of similar posts for the Dodge Brothers and Plymouth bangers. I have a T project in the works, and am still waiting for the right banger to come along, so it would be nice to have a primer on all of the more-common engines from that era. Ideally, Id like to find a Durant 4 or Star banger, but those dont seem to come up all that often. -Dave
There has been plenty of posts by me about my Plymouth and some about the Dodge. Use the search. Never works for me but there is a good chance your smarter and can get it to work for you.
Rich and Herb, I stopped by Stevie G's shop to help out with a bit the other day and he showed me an earlier Buick 6 crankshaft with bolt on counterweights and it got me thinking... would something like that work well, or is it just a recipe for trouble at upper speeds?
Okay, aside from posts in the various monthly banger meets (which are otherwise mostly Ford-oriented), heres what I found: Anyone got info on the eary mopar 4 cyl flatheads? - Dodge Flathead 4 Information 1931 Plymouth 4 Cylinder OHV conversion and transmission options - Plymouth 4 Information -Dave
Well that's not to bad. Pictures of my OHV and flathead plymouths and the Dodge with the M&B head. That's a lot if you ask me. If there is something about my Plymouth or Dodge I can tell you, ask away. But not here. Somebody dosn't want us messing up his Chevy 4 thread. I believe besides the Plymouth lots of early race Fords use bolt on counter weights. Mine never came off.
I do not believe that it is nessicarily that he doesn't want the chevy thread messed up as dodge and ford banger info is quite useful on these motors as well, it is just that he does want to maintain relevance with the topic of discussion. I can't say that I blame him, chev 4 info for rodding is rather difficult to come up with and this thread seems to have it in abundance. Some of the hoppup basics of the fords and dodges should not be overlooked but the focus is their application to the early chev 4 in this case.
Bill- I am familiar with those cranks- you have to remove the counterweights to grind the journals. As to whether it's a viable way to do a Cfour I would say no. Look at the place where the c/weight would have to bolt on- very little area, and no flat surface except on the rod side, I would want to see at the very minimum a couple of high tensile ground shank 3/8" bolts, in reamed holes holding the weight on. Herb
Rich- how about a pix of the bolt on Plymouth counterweights? Don't worry about Mac- I know where he gets his hot dogs Herb
They're GOOD hotdogs, too! Rich, I apologize- wasn't trying to shun you or anyone else, and heck, it's RedRodder's thread anyway! I was simply hoping to maintain the integrity of the thread. It's fun to read through pages of diamond blocks, lion heads and the like, but it's also great to be able to go to something that pertains directly to what we're going after, that's all.
I have no reason to want this thread to become a Plymouth thread or another Monthly Banger thread. I am really trying to shut up about my motors and find out about Chevy fours. But to answer, I sold the Plymouths to Bill Smith and now they are in his museum in Lincoln, NB. So I can't take a picture of a crank or I would. Sorry.
A little OT here but I have a 90% complete 23 olds roadster with the back half gone (wooden P/U box era) picture on my profile
Okay, so i guess this is more a clarification question than anything, but, if using ford A rods I can use rods that have been converted to insert bearings correct? Then did Herb say that all the mains are a different size?
kenagain- you're on you're way to a nice little gowjob there!... make sure those Washington boys don't pay a visit to the "midnight auto supply" in your back yard
Agreed, thats very cool. I could see that done either as a lakes modified (early, with spindly wheels), or as a boat tail. Despite its pedigree, Im glad to see you not building a Beverly Hillbillies clone! Either way, gotta keep that Olds banger. -Dave
Hmmmm, nah, if his parts storage has security like mine, well I'll put it this way, you may make it by makarov, but the mossberg gets you every time
The Jalopy Journal
