Adapting TH 350 or 700r4 tranny to Chevy 250 inline 6

I have seen adapter plates to use newer tranny but cant fid them and not sure if they work good. anyone have any info on this.

 

Found this on line. Maybe it will help. I don't see a problem with the th350 to the 250 inline.

TN: I recently inherited a '65 Malibu. It has a straight 6 with a Powerglide. It has bucket seats and a floor shifter. It has the SS symbols on the dash, rear quarter panels, and on the hub caps. Is this correct to have a straight 6 Super Sport? This car is a project car (body in good shape, rust wise). I am interested in putting in a 350 with a TH350. Will it fit? Is it just a case of changing motor mounts or am I going to have to have some custom work done? How hard is this engine/transmission changeover?
BS: Do it. I have a '65 in which I installed a 350cid mated to a TH350; it works great. You use the 327cid motor mounts and the short TH350. You can get a kit for the TH350 shift linkage changeover, available most everywhere. You'll probably need some brackets for the alternator and the power steering coming from the inline 6. I swapped from a 283ci motor and things were super easy.


I don't think you need much. I believe it will bolt up to the 250. It's been many years since I screwed with this stuff. It's like starting all over.
Was a company in New Jersy that made all the swap stuff. Can't find it now.

 

There is no adaption. The 250 engine uses the noraml Chevy bellhousing bolt pattern. Lots of 250s came with Turbo 350s behind them. Mine has one. You might be thinking of the 235, which does need adapting.

 

speaking of putting 350 automatics behind inline 6's.....is there anyway you can modify a original column mount shifter (lets say off of my 41 chevy) to work with a modern automatic? or does someone sell non tilt columns with shifters that look original? sorry for the post steal

 

god! why did I show up Anonymous on the last post!

 

I also have the 250/I6, what about the 700r4? Is it more involved? What year transmission is best? I understand the first ones were junk! Is an adapter needed? Thanks

 

Hey I also have a 66 I'd like to put a 700r4 in if anyone has any good advise, knowledge about this swap I'd sure like to hear it. Or if I go with th350 what do I need to do about the drive line, just swap the yoke for a auto trans or does it have to be shortened or longer or wat??

 

have a 250/powerglide for my roadster, thinking either 5 speed or 200R4~any input on these?
thanks

 

I have a similar question, I have a 1953 Chevy bel air with a 235 motor, straight 6 and it's an automatic transmission. Is it possible to replace the original transmission and put a 350 transmission, if so how?

 

Chev 6 engines of the "old" 216/235 type, used thru '62 on full size cars and pickups, DO NOT bolt up to late model automatics with stock parts. An adapter will be needed. However, 194,230,250,292 6 engines, which began use in '62 Chevy II/Nova and all '63 cars and trucks, all have the same rear block pattern as Chev V8 engines and can be bolted to any Chev V8 transmission......powerglide, turbo 350/400, 2004R/700R4 O/D's with some combination of stock parts. Of course, the same is true for the various stick shift combos.

Ray

 

They will all bolt on with the right convertor.

 

The only thing you will have to make sure is you match the convertor to your flywheel bolt pattern as stated above

 

I had a 700 behind a 68 250 in my 36 Chevy,replaced a th350 with it. Move the trans crossmember back and shorten the driveshaft. You'll have to make your own linkage, check Bowtie overdrive. I went with a 4:10 gear, I thought it worked well.

 

the thread gets confusing since anaheim the FNG new guy dumb ass, asked a new question in a very old thread .

The original thread was about a later engine chev 6 cylinder.. then anahiem asks a question about a 235 chevy 6 , two different engines

 

Crosley...anaheim wasn't the first to post on this old thread with a new question.And there's no good reason to call people names. Try to be constructive and helpful instead. It's simple. Here...I'll show you how.

anaheim...No offense intended...As a new guy, you've got to go back and read the rules of the forum. Main things to know: Do an introduction first thing. There's a place to do that on the H.A.M.B. page. Tell us a little about yourself, if it's only that you like old cars, and your happy to be here. And...if you have a question, it's almost a sure bet that it's been asked before. Use the search function for the message board or the tech archive, and try to find a thread that's already dealt with your question. If you just can't find anything, then start a new thread, and title it with your basic question, then elaborate in your post. Repost in your thread to thank those who have helped you. It's best not to ask a new, fairly non-related question in another guy's thread. It's called "hijacking the thread", and it can get confusing. Good luck with your '53 Chevy! Rick

There...See Crosley? That wasn't so hard now, was it?!

 

With so much info out there on what works where for Chevy motor and trans swaps I don't understand why this thread that was started back around the time AlGore invented the internet, is the one people choose to bump to the top to ask questions about those swaps. Surely it's not the first one to come up in a search.

Someone should point out to Anahiem that anything but a stock trans will also require conversion to an open drive - meaning you have to change the rearend too -

 

I ran a 70 nova 250-6 in my 48 chevy coupe with a 700R4 trans, it was a 91 camaro trans and the torque converter bolted right up to the 250 flexplate with no problem. I used the Bowler torque converter lockup electronic controller which justs plugs into the trans connector and all you have to do is hook up twelve volts to it through the pedal switch which is included in the kit. The bowler gives you 10 seconds after the trans shifts into fourth gear before it locks up the converter which is nice for a 6 cyl.. I ran a 3:25 rear end which kept the eng at about 1900 rpm with the converter locked up and the six didn't like that rpm range, its runs better at 2100 to 2500 rpm. I also have a 74 nova 250 and it ran a 350 trans with 308 rear gears, which the engine likes that combo. I used my original column with original shift lever, but I had to make a detent plate at the end of the column so I could lock the lever in park and so I could lock out reverse. It would still be wise to put a neutral safety switch in the circuit to. Just email me for any pics, good luck.

 

LOL ... wow ,you are a genius on the internet I see. LOL.. I actually read the whole thread and posted about the confusion first

How do you think the FNG anahiem found the thread? A search he performed some where , I would guess.

Anahiem did not appear to post an introduction of himself.. At one time that was a big deal here on the HAMB.

anahiem's post should have been split off to a new thread by a moderator to avoid the confusion is my thought

 

Must be spring, n00bs are out of hibernation.

 

I'm looking to use my 250 with 700r or a 200 transmission. I'm running a 3.48 rearend. is this a good idea or should I use a non overdrive transmission like a 350 turbo.

 

Wow, just wow. All that talk about bumping an old thread and it's back, again, 18 months later.

Rearend gear will work, best bet is to use an RPM calculator and figure what RPM you want to run your average cruising speed. But with an OD you can always put the trans in drive and not use the overdrive.

 

This thread will never die.

I've got a 250 6-cylinder, a 4.3 starter with staggered bolt holes, a 168 tooth flywheel from a 305, and a 700-r4 with a stocker converter. Will this pile of shit all bolt together? Someone tell me before I start assembling.

 

If the block is drilled for the starter bolt pattern, and the flexplate has the right pattern for your TC, then it should all go together. Hooking up the TV cable correctly is more of a challenge depending on what you are doing for a carb.

 

The starter thats on the motor is mounted right on the edge of the block, so I think it is for a 168 tooth flywheel. Wouldn't a straight across starter be mounted farther inward?

 

I have a 65 c10 panel with a 250 and a 3 speed manual I want to change to an automatic, transmission is junk in it. Any suggestions and advice on all what I would need I know budget wise a 350 turbo sounds good but what all does it take


Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad

 

I could go into it, but I'm not even going to answer because still someone else bumped this ancient thread instead of just making a new one, so like 10 guys will answer the original post not seeing that it's now damn near 10 years old. Maybe if you're lucky someone else will read it all first and try to help you.

I mean, come on, how many posts above - some by myself - already pointing out the futility of bumping an old thread to ask a new question? It's like, why even bother to answer, if you didn't read the rest of the thread, you're not going to read an actual reply either.

 

Thanks


Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad

 

Rule #2: You think it's dead (technically it was before you shot it), one more makes 100% sure.

Swapping a chevy transmission is shop class 101. You need the correct flexplate, converter and bolts. Then add a shifter of your choice. Bang bang.

 

All i needed for my swap was the correct flexplate (sold online) and to shorten the driveshaft (in a 64 full size belair) a few inches, but that depends on the length of the tailshaft. Was super easy, took about a day and final cast was around $500 including trans fluid and a used t350 from clist.

You'll also need some way to shift the trans, but that should be a given. I found a used Hurst ratchet shifter on ebay for $80 and that was a direct bolt in, just had to drill a hole in the trans hump inside the car ($5 hole saw)

 

Still keeping this post alive!

NEED HELP!!

I own a 1951 Chevy fleetline that I put a ‘75 Chevy 250 in with a th350 trans.

The motor runs completely fine, the transmission doesn’t shift into gear at all.
I saw that the vacuum modulator hose from the transmission isn’t even there and I read that that may be the problem.
Does any one know where that hose should attach to on the engine? Pics?

Can any one tell me what all needs to be connected from the transmission to the motor?? Does the shifter have anything to do with it not shifting? I have been shifting manually with a pry bar


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app