Front Engine Dragster How To Build One

Where do you get the SFI specs? My Chevy 2 has a copy, kind of, of an Alston chassis. I watched a film and thought, I can do that. My son doesn't think it will certify. I'd like to know if it needs something additional before I try to get it certified. It runs low 10s and goes straight as an arrow. I just want to make sure that it is completely safe. By the way, I voted for this thread. Great stuff.

 

SFI specs are available for purchase on their website, $38.00 shipping included. NHRA rule book might be handy as well if you don't have one.

Now, my question, has anyone built one using a SCRATCH TIG setup? Pros and cons of doing this?

 

I used a scratch tig unit for years. It was a Craftsman DC welder w/ a high frequency
box and an argon regulator added. Worked fine after starting. Experience was the key
for correct amperage setting. Also had to turn gas bottle on & off with each weld.
Auto darkening helmet is a big help. Real tig welder is easier to use and more adjust-able. Be sure to use correct welding rod like ER70S-2.

 

I drive a slingshot dragster and I can tell you. There's no bigger thrill than sittin 'tween the slicks, blowing down the 1/4 mile, headers blasting fire. It's better than tits.

Guys, we will be racing these things these things this summer, at Tulsa, Oklahoma. Build one and race with us.

HERE'S THE LATEST SCHEDULE:

May 1st. ----- Race #1
June 5th. ----- Race #2
July 10th. ----- Race #3
August 14th. -- Race #4
Sept. 25th. -- Race #4

Kerry's rail is what I had in mind when we invented HA/GR. The shorties would be good to run to the 1/8th. I'd be safer that way and still be one hell of a thrill.

 

killer tech!

 

Got a question for you guys. How wide is the rear of your cars with the tires and wheels? I am building a car to fit into my toy hauler and have a place where it goes from about 5ft wide progressively down to about 3 foot. If ya'll could measure your widths and what size wheel and offset you have that would be great. I am trying to figure out how far back i can put the car before it starts hitting things. Thanks

 

Mine is 140" WB which makes it about 16' overall, 40" wide at the rear and 44" at the front.

 

This is what i am trying to accomplish.........It is 52" at front, if i back it in and can keep it around 45" at rear i can gain another 2 feet of space as the drivers compartment fits into that small opening towards the front. i am using my old chassis pieces as reference. I am going to build another chassis and would like to be able to load it in here so i can make a few events away from home and have a place to stay while there. I got the trailer, i might as well put it to use. If my measurements are correct i have 14' total length and a wheelbase of around 120".

 

Well I drove out to Roger Lee's "Riceman" house today and looked at a work of art..... He did a bitchin job on his car and I had to have a look... I came home with the drawings and a heap of photos....

That's it... I'm doing it... I'm building a car.

Let's lay some pipe!

Robert M.

 

How long of a car are his drawings for?? I am wanting to build something around 120" wb and am looking for a starting point. Only prints i can find are for 200" or longer.

 

Roger's car is 144" WB... The car is Fuck'n nuts..... I am still in shock from what I saw.... Plus Max was stoked that Julie offered him a cookie... . Great day...

I have been motivated.

Robert M.

 

I have blueprints for a 1962 Kent Fuller Masters & Richter Chassis at 112'' Wheelbase or a Woody Gilmore 1964 1/2 Brissette & Sutherland at 144''. If you plan to use these with a transmission, the motorplate to the centerline of the rearend diminsion needs to be 32'' and not 24'' for the Fuller or 21'' for the Woody. The drawings are NOT NHRA, SEMA, SFI Legal for Competition. So get current NHRA and SFI Rulebooks. $25.00 each plus $10 shipping and handling. PM me if interested and i'll give you the details.

 

Two things:

1. This thread if FUCKING AWESOME.


2. I think some of the confusion here is asking about what TYPE of FED can run 10.00 and slower, and 9.99 and faster. Remember guys, there are several generations of FED's, and they are NOT all the same. The early style cars are the 10.00 and slower cars. And depending on the cage type around the driver and the track you are at might be relegated to cackle status only. Or no competition runs, but an exhibition run only.

Something along the lines of Zorbas Ghost, a chute pack style FED, will (depending on the cage design again) qualify for SFI2.6 or 6.1. But you have to build the car that way. And because the cage is enclosed by a body, it's much easier to end up with a car that looks period correct, but passes modern tech.

You just have to be happy with the speed your allowed to run if you want a specific look to your car, like the late 50's style cars. But if fast is never fast enough, then a car more like the Winns Winder or Zorbas Ghost is the one you need.

The Chrome Czar and Daddy's Girl will both be SFI capable, so we can always have the option of more speed.

 

The Mopar 8 3/4 housing is 25 1/2'' wide outside bearing flange to bearing flange. With 11 x 16'' Halibrands with 3 3/4'' inside backspacing wheels, 12.00-16 (14'' wide x 31'' tall) M & H Slicks and a narrow 20 1/2'' outside chassis width the total rear width is 51''. The front is 52'' total.

 

Thanks for coming over and checking out the Brissette Grenade. It was good to see you again, it was like old Nitro war buddies meeting again. I forgot to tell you that the first body is made from .062 and the second body was .040 which is on the Fueler now. The .062 will hold it's shape better and both are 3003-H14 material. Now that you have your cookie, get to work ! Mad Max is a good kid.....teach him well.

 

I'm building off of a Mark Williams blueprint for 200" and just cut the front down to 140". It's the stuff at the rear that is important.

 

I feel you can have the look of the 60's combined with the safety standards of today. I had my chassis certified to NHRA 7.50 last week, and will have a old style body to hide the cage, fire bottles, etc. I feel for the best results you have to build a chassis around a body style. Brian Fox did a great job in working with me on building what I needed...Randy

 

I like the lines on the tail section, like Creitz & Goleman. Like Pat Foster said " If it looks right, it is right ". Very nice work Brian. A nice home for a Blown Nitro 392

 

Thanks Roger, but the part I did you cant see. Thrillbilly did the aluminum body himself.

 

Randy

Where do you plan to run that? Hope we get to see it at Ozark Raceway in Rogersville! Going to be a great looking car.

Larry

 

Larry...Thanks for the compliment, we plan on running Mo-Kan, Tulsa, and Ozark.

 

He did a good forming job, but has to form over a good starting point, the chassis. I haven't seen Dean's car you built yet up close and is very happy with it.

 

I saw Thrillbilly's chassis at Tulsa, on Chassis inspection day. King does nice work. Now put that thing together and come race with us.

 

Thank you guys!! Long live the front motor digger.

 

Here is the first step to my car.....



2x4 rec. tubing for a jig table. I am getting too old to be working on the ground!!! Prints for the Woody car should be coming soon from "riceman" and then its time to order some round tubing. Will keep you guys updated but it ain't gonna be no fast build, that i can tell you!!!

 

Picking up my clutch can tonight

 

ok...i've been waitin' to say this for 40 yrs....i have a front engine dragster! i just bought this from a fellow hamber last week. i can't even tell you how much i felt like a kid again as i was picking it up. i was 50 miles from gettin to where it was...my gps said 30 something miles and turn right and go 26 miles. from that point on i would have been very embarrassed if anyone had been with me and seen the way i was acting. man i was sooo pumped! i felt like the day i did when i was 16 and my dad was taking me across town to pick up my '67 ss chevelle. i can't believe i didn't pee all over myself....but i didn't. anyway i'm very excited about this car. wasn't really sure if i'd ever be able to get one. it's gonna need some adjustments as far as pedals and levers but other than that it needs nothing (except a BIG BLOCK CHEVROLET!!). i don't care for the squareness of the top and front of the sheet metal but that's fixable. i will have a ton of questions for you guys and hope you will help with the answers. my time is very limited for the next couple of months, so it will set till i get some things out of the way. i started another new business last yr about this time and it has really taken off. i'm at least a yr ahead of where i thought it would be. our very first big show will be in a couple of weeks so i'm really buried trying to be ready for that, but after that i've got to close in the carport and then begin going thru one of the bbc's i have to drop in the f.e.d. i think i'm just gonna build something mild to start with till i get a few trips under my belt. i've been drivng the coupe down the track for a few yrs and i'm looking forward to something nice easy to drive now....lol.
well i didn't mean to ramble on...just really excited! here's a couple of pics.


oh ya...did i mention i was pumped!!!

reggie- organgrinder

 

Congrats and welcome to the club. Nothing wrong with starting out mild, I am still there and having a blast. I do not break anything and do not have much money in mine (compared to?). I am with you on the square body, build a new one with a little more curve and make it your own.

 

Ya ....i'm all about driving it and not fixin on it all the time. There is a blower in the near future but i just want to get used to it a little first.
Try to get to know the car...i'm lookin forward to mettin a whole new group of people.

 

I must confess the only plans I use are the NHRA rule book for cage construction and bracing and tubing specs . After that i just build it the way i want to. I know that is probably bad but it sure is fun. One motor, 1 trans, 1 solid mounted, narrowed diff, four wheels, front suspension & steering as needed and some length that looks right to me.
Don