Need all the rust off of everything but the front fenders and the doors. ( I will have them sandblasted). Whats the best way to do it? sandblasting the whole thing or The old chemical stripper and a D.A.? (not together).
Ive not seen a chem stripper yet that takes all of it off. They all seem to leave little bits and pieces, and you'll spend alot of time on the DA anyway. Prep to sand blast the whole car is a pain but at least all of the paint comes off and it really brings out the pin holes that need to be fixed.
No matter what, you are going have to use plenty of elbow grease. There is no "easy" way no matter which approach you take. They are all time consuming.
Thats what I figured. my teacher is kinda a get it in get it out kinda guy and I payed 135 bucks just to tow it into class. (that was like 7 miles only)So I would probably pay atleast 300 just to tow it! Plus getting it sandblasted.
Afro-disc on a 4" right angle grinder. Use a good one like a DeWalt. Those discs will take everything; paint, primer, bondo, rust, you name it, and leave you with a nice clean metal surface ready for primer. And you don't have to worry about surface contamination from the chemical stripper. They're cheap too. You can strip a whole car for about $50 worth of these things
There's a thread on Evaporust here on the HAMB- seems to be pretty good stuff. The suggestion was to soak paper towls with it and lay them on the sheetmetal. Sounds a little time-consuming, but it's fairly inexpensive and won't warp the metal like sandblasting can.
i know from some experience with chemical strippers that if you have a thick coat, depending on the consistency, like water/ like jelly, etc, you can cover it with plastic film like vapor barrier or even cling wrap from the kitchen, this will slow down the drying process and help the stuff work. I stripped the vast majority of paint ( 1 original coat and 1 respray on aboy 1/3 of the car ) with some "circa 1850" brand furniture stripper, and it dried quite fast, covering the treated areas seemed to help delay it a bit, but the others are right, the discs / sanding, or any abrading of the paint will take it down faster ....... and yeah, that tow job seems quite expensive. my take on it, mbmopar
i spent 600 and had my last gto soda blasted, MAN it came back nice & clean, did not have to remove the glass, then just go to work on the body. well worth the time & money imo
Afro-disc on a 4" right angle grinder. Use a good one like a DeWalt. Those discs will take everything; paint, primer, bondo, rust, you name it, and leave you with a nice clean metal surface ready for primer. And you don't have to worry about surface contamination from the chemical stripper. They're cheap too. You can strip a whole car for about $50 worth of these things <!-- / message --> <!-- sig --> __________________ -'57 Joe Street Aces CC - New Jersey what he said - easiest, cleanest cheap strip around - i stripped a whole car in 2 saturdays this way then used a DA w/ 260 grit to clean it up
I stripped this to bare metal at my shop. Combo of aircraft stripper but mostly sanding w/ DA & Rolocs. What a PITA. The shit was everywhere! Front clip, hood, doors deck lid went to the blasters for media. When I went to pick my shit up at the blasters, I asked what they would have charged to plastic media blast a body shell brought in on a trailer. He said $400.00 Whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaat? I used to strip them all myself. I'll never strip another one again. It's not worth the lost time.
Dip it. The only problem I have with it is that it left holes where I didn't know there were holes. (G) How else you gonna get under the dash and nooks? Larry T
AAA is your towing answer. 100 bucks a year and you get 4(?) tows within 50(?) miles. I have it for the wife so she dosent get the dash lookin like christmas and keep driving,,,,,,,,,,,,,,again. Real good advise from these guys. I'm gonna take some myself for the 57.
This teacher you got,what is he trying to teach? get it in get it out quick is not going to teach you much .what kid of class is it ,shop or what?
Ok is that their mfg name? I did a Google search and came up dry. Clarification would be helpful. Thanks
Here guys try this link, Click on the tool store at the lower right of the page and then click on strip it to bare metal....These discs are the shit! http://www.sunchasertools.com/
If you want everything off the entire car , then have it dipped ! A good media blast will also do a very good job ! Now if you are just wanting to do the outside of the car , a good DA sander works great too . What ever you do don't ever use the metal wheels on a drill thing ! That shit will eat you up and stick you in places you don't want metal to go ! RetroJim
No it's not a trade name, just a generic term for the discs as several companies make them. http://www.directindustry.com/prod/norton-abrasives/abrasive-disc-for-welding-5612-38851.html There is a link to Norton's "Rapid Strip" discs. The ones Shortdog posted are substantially similar. These make quick work of pretty much any foreign matter on steel, but don't eat into the steel itself, so you don't really have to worry about thinning the metal you're stripping. Very cool. You just need to be a little careful not to lean on them too hard or the heat could potentially warp a panel. If you're using them correctly though it shouldn't be an issue, light pressure and tool RPM will yield the best results
If your wanting a complete strip have a body done with soda or media is the way to go, let somebody else deal with the mess, you don't have to strip it completly down as if a dip job, the windows and rubber can stay in and won't get hurt. It needs to be pressure washed real good after a soda blast as that stuff gets everywhere, and it doesn't remove heavy rust, it'll take off a lite dusting but nothing heavy.
I disagree with the "Dip it" guys.....every car I've seen done this way has had..."issues" creep back up thru the paint after a while. Soda or media and a reliable shop...or I like the 'kid on the block sand it idea'lol!
A friend of mine had his 38 dipped about 8 years ago, no problems yet. My 56 Ford pickup cab was done about a year ago, looks like the day I picked it up. Not all dip places use the same process or have the same results. Larry T
I like the 7" Norton Rapid-strip discs if you are going to do it at home. They fit on a 7" sander/grinder. Also, Harbor Freight has 4" and 4.5" versions for cheap. They work great on wood, too, as long as you don't get too aggressive. I used them to restore some sash windows for my house, it was easy as pie.
I think Im gonna just strip the car myself. Its a body and paint class. My teacher that used to work on older cars said I should get a 3m disc hooked to a grinder and some ppg rust remover. Since he said one of du ponts good rust removers is illegal now. I thought, if I could get 5 solid years without having to deal with rust Ill b ok. And ill b happy. So that is why I came to the conclusion on this. From what Ive heard (and I could be wrong) There r no more dip places in los angeles. Dont wanna have to tow it farther than that? Is the afro one the plastic ones by 3m? The ones that look like a whole bunch of noodles? Im gonna strip the interior and trunk and maybe zero rust it? Has anybody had bad experiences with zero rust? Ive had my whole paint delaminate off my decklid with rustmort. I heard somewhere that u need do wash rustmort with water or something before u spray it? is this correct? Sorry bout all the questions.
well the way i would go about it is throw dollar bills at the body so it strip seems to work for me at the clubs...
We use the 8 in strip disc in my shop all the time & I also sell them. $17.50 ea plus shipping Danny.