I'm working on a 58 F1 and after much debate on whether to clip this thing or not (thanks for all the input on that by the way) I have decided to use a lowered straight axle from Sids. Now the only problem is how low do ya go... My thoughts are to flip the rear over the springs to drop what I have heard to be around 4". Not sure if that is true or not, so if you know please share your input. I would like to see some pics of the lowered 57-60 F100's out there and know how low you went with yours & what way you went about it. This project will start off with a small block Chevy & be switched to a 500 Caddy motor. Roughly the same weight, give or take 40 lbs or so. I appreciate your help. KK
I was researching this just the other day. I believe mounting the axle above the springs will lower your truck 6". Here is a thread lodaddyo did when he lowered his 58: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=153730
I'm running a 4" axle from Sid with one leaf removed. I'm also using a solid tie rod and 2" tie rod drops. I'm running a 460 so I'm sure that dropped it a little also. In the rear I just flipped the axle and c-notched the frame. FYI, I only have about an inch of travel before the rear end hits the bed floor. I also had to heat and bend the steering arm down so the drag link is level to eliminate bump steer, now the steering arm barely kisses the shock as it passes. I haven't addressed that yet. Here is a pic of where I'm at now.
when you flip the rear it drops it 6". I did it on my 1969 f100 and it works great, but you may have clearence problems, we had to shave off the rubber stoppers on the frame and one day plan on c notching it so we can cary something in the bed.
My Dad's '59. Fatman MII front. Flipped axle and small c-notch for the rear. I'll have to ask if he used blocks or not and what the total drop was for the rear. He's running a '57 Thunderbird 312. He is on here as Ramrod36 if you want to PM him for info. Rellim - I like the stance on yours, too! -Andy
Thanks Andy. Something I forgot to mention, you'll have scrub line issues with the 4" drop. I had to buy a new floor jack just go get under the axle in the center. I think there is about 3.5" of ground clearance with my G-78-15's.
I did a an axle over the spring swap in the rear on my truck and a c-notch. The front as lowered with mono-leafs with reversed eyes. Im;m going to be adding a 2" drop axle from Sids asap since my rear springs are so de-arched. I want to even out the tail drag
I believe that flipping a rear axle from below the leaf spring to above the spring will lower an vehicle by the sum of the thicknesses of: the spring the original upper saddle (no longer used) the axle the new lower saddle This applies whether you remove or add leafs to the spring or not.
Here is a pic of my friends '60 we just finished up putting a 4" drop axel in front and just got it running with a Buick 455, thanks to GMC BUBBA on getting it running smooth.
All bitch'n trucks! However, your answers so far leads me to another question... Is it absolutely necessary to c-notch the frame when flipping the rear axle? Rellim, is there anything you would do different if you had to do it again? Are you happy with the 4" drop axle? I guess you almost have to go with the four if flipping the rear though huh. I was toying with the idea of the 3" to start with. Is there any way to drop it 3-4" and still make it even in the back? I love the way it looks but don't know if I want to get into cutting the frame. KK
Here's mine with a Jim Weimmer MII front end and 3 leafs removed from the rear stack. It bottoms on the rubber bumpers in the rear very easily. Has a 289/c4 in it. SPark
Isn't this body style called F100, and not F1? Not being a smart ass here, but was under the impression that after '56, they were changed to F100.
No if you don't mind the axle hitting the frame rail almost every time you hit a bump. The frame isn't c-notched on my 48 Chev pickup (yet) and a few years ago I cracked the frame rail right above the axle due to the axle hitting the frame. It isn't about putting one of those huge notches in it so you can lay frame it's about getting enough clearance so you can drive the truck without having issues like I did. Limping into my buddy's driveway to use his welder to repair the frame wasn't exactly fun.
If I were to just dearch the springs in the rear to get around a 4" drop would it still be necessary? I want to try and run about a 10" wheel in the rear if possible. My pops ran 15x10's on his 60 but it was stock height. KK
holy crap that truck sits just right i jus talk to sid this weekend at the swap meet about doin mine a 4" drop i think i going to do it know after seeing that
Nope, I'm using the stock pan from a 75 lincoln. I'm using tubular engine and trans cross members from CPP. I did have to remove the original rear cross member to clear the trans and it was very tricky getting the crank pulley to clear the front cross member but I was able to raise the engine up enough to make it work without having to notch it like I've seen others do. BTW....the CPP tubular trans cross member will not work with out major modification. The axle is pretty close to the engine cross member but I've jumped on the front bumper and it hasn't hit yet.
It's hard to say since i haven't driven it yet. If I were going to keep a straight axle in it, I might add anti sway bars but other than that, I wouldn't change a thing. My goal was to lower the truck without messing with the springs much to keep a stock ride. Though not traditional, if you consider the cost of rebuilding all the stock components that would be replaced with a Mustang II front end, it is much cheaper to go the Mustang II route. Especially when you consider the cost of adding power steering. I didn't realize this when I started my project so if I had it to do over I might seriously consider the Mustang II.
The c-notch is not as hard as it sounds and well worth the effort. Bottoming out on every pebble in the road is not fun. This is not my truck but this is exactly how my c-notch looks.
Thanks Zimm, that was a good article. How the hell does that guy keep his shirt so white? As soon as I walk in the garage mine has grease on it! KK