I have heard it mentioned a few times about using a jag crossmember in the 49-52 chevy. I was wondering if anyone has done it and what is involved . ie steering shaft alignment, pump issues, ride height. Any pics,links would be appriciated.
You shouldn't have to use the pump if you don't want to. I use a Jag front in an A (lighter car, true) it's not much effort to steer.
In the past jag stuff has been used under a lot of early Fords,,and I'm sure chevys too,, But most of the guys here I don't think would use Jag front or rear components. HRP
Jag suspended front and rear... <embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://static.photobucket.com/flash/input.swf" style="" id="IMGTag-code" bgcolor="transparent" quality="high" name="IMGTag-code" wmode="transparent" allowfullscreen="true" swliveconnect="true" allowscriptaccess="always" flashvars="ipt=%5BIMG%5Dhttp%3A%2F%2Fi147.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fr310%2Fzekanis%2Fdrags09%2FDSC_0002.jpg%5B%2FIMG%5D&trk=image_code_click_FULLVIEW_IMG&width=175&height=21&color=#000000&border=#BDBDBD&cont=IMGTagContainer" height="21" width="175"> Just did 2400 miles in it over the weekend.
I'm contemplating using both front and rear Jag units under my '50 Chevy sedan. You'll note I said "contemplating". a) I can't find a reasonably priced donor or parts here in the hinterlands. b) Right now I couldn't afford a monkey's breakfast. So contemplation is safe!
my buddy own a salvage yard, got 2 of them sitting there. I think I'll have to take a closer look with a measuring tape.
Pull-a-part... If you got one close to you. Complete front suspension assembly ~$100 Complete rear assembly ~$100 My local PAP has about 6 jags in it
I can too. I have jag front and rear under my '49 Lincoln. Research has shown me that many thousands have it under their cars AND trucks. Especially here in NZ where parts are cheap as chips... A site search on XJ6 will find a lot of info.
Well it was a while ago.... TECH.... or something like it. Jag suspension in a 57 Buick Found the last one for $100 with a blown motor. Check out your local European auto shops, they may have one sitting out back...
Jag suspension under 55 F100, maybe of help http://www.uk-hotrods.co.uk/v2/garage_scene/me/page_1.php
heres the one i did on the olds. had to make 2X4 rails cause of how the original olds crossmember was. on the chevys its way easier cause you can use the existing rails. handles way better than any mustang II or camaro clipped car i've ever driven.
If you're running a SBC, drivers side exhaust is a little tight. The rack is behind the crossmember and most block huggers exit right above the pinion portion of the rack. Sanderson makes a header just for the sbc into a jag application, a popular swap. The exhaust runs between the steering shaft and the frame, instead of hugging the motor. Rams horns with the straight exit will also work. I've read that some guys will offset the motor to the passenger side an inch or two to make room for a block hugger. Ride height can be lowered by spacing the lower spring plate from the lower control arm. It just bolts onto the bottom.
You won't go wrong with f and r Jag units. Strong, safe, perfect brakes, perfect handling, perfect ride. Easily maintained with inexpensive parts.
I've done it, and Rhopper is right about the steering clearance on the drivers side.I'm using standard truck exhaust manifolds that clear it. I tried the block huggers and they were no go. I'm looking at S10 V8 headers at the moment as the price is cheaper then the Jag headers.I'm using the chevy steering pump on the Jag rack with no problems. Also I have it bagged as well.
I'd have to agree, and the S4 that I played with on the WV turnpike on my way to the HAMB Drags might agree. He was looking a bit peeved when he had to work to get past me, then I hung with him. Decent tires and it would have really been on.
I hear ya! Recently moved away from an area with a decent pull-it-yerownsef, and haven't discovered one in my new location (Meridian, MS). However, I haven't yet seriously looked for one, either. The move here caused a major flat spot in the wallet area, gonna take a while to recover!
Note that with the Jag units, you always have two options (front or rear). They can be mounted solid. THe factory mounts the F & R cross members on rubber. If you mount the front solid, NP. If you mount the rear solid, then omit the stock trailing arms. They can be left out altogether or you can fabricate new ones. The new ones must be at an angle with the forward arm mounting point longitudinally aligned with the rear lower arm inner bearing axis. Reason: the Jag IRS is not interference movement absorbed with compliant bushings. It is solid roller bearings. The stock setup mounts the entire rear setup in rubber; that's why the interference motion of those rear trailing arms can be accommodated. This feature actually lets the entire rear steer into a corner on a stock Jag. While it is OK to run without these trailing arms at all (only needed when the cage is mounted in rubber) if you absolutely positively want them, then fabricate your own with perfect geometry to the rotaion axis of the lower rear trailing arm or else you will be putting undue stress on your rear suspension's bearing points.
So, do you recommend using the stock cage, or cutting it off and re-fabbing everything? I'm thinking about one for my '38 Lasalle
I used the stock cage as nothing is seen from behind my car. Why change what was engineer designed to work. Plenty have been built with custom crossmembers but make sure you get the geometry spot on. .
Knew I had this spare Jag for some reason !! The old 36 LaSalle may just be the recipient of some updated suspension here too....Thanx all !
This is the one suspension scheme I've never tried. I do have a '48 F1 that I was going to use a Dakota front suspension on using one of Elpolacko's crossmembers but his shop is in flux as far as producing one and after a coupe of years trying to get what I need to do the swap Im no closer. So, when I get ready I just might try a Jag. Frank
I haven't measured mine but if you are looking at fitting one to the truck in your avatar I have a full magazine article that shows you how to do it. It a popular swap in the UK. I did one on a 50 Ford pickup, Jag front and rear.
Late model XJ6 front and rear approximately 61" between wheel (hub) mounting surfaces. Some of the early Jags, including XKE are much narrower.
Forget the E types (XKE to us heathens). The front end on an E-Type is mounted to a steel tube subframe. The IFS is not mounted on a removable crossmember as on XJ6, et al Jags.
For a 49-54 Chevy you want like 85 or older. The front is not hard to install, I guess one pair of bolt holes lines up. The pictures I've seen guys make a triangle out of plate steel, weld it up, and then you can bolt up the other holes with a little drilling. Make an upper shock mount and go. Some say they're a tad wide for the Chev body. Even has the same wheel lug pattern, 5x4 3/4" -
And I feel pretty bad about not being able to help you further. Some things are out of my control You may just want to go this route, doesn't look like the Dakota stuff is going to be available for a while longer. The track width you should be looking for is 59" wide +/- an inch.
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