Love is.......The Feburary Banger Meet

Here is the banger link list .


For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info:

Flat Ernie maintains the monthly link list. Every month is listed:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=161498


Banger basics. another info link list:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=251717

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=42480
Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator:[/COLOR]

http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculatorfin.jsp


Model A master cylinder mounting bracket ideas:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=4953173#post4953173


Maybe these links should be posted early in each months meeting.

If anyone knows of more, please post them.


I have finally finished some kits for the T-5 to torque tube adapters. Let me know if you need one.

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we have been going at this a while. so much fun.

 

4 yrs...or thereabouts

 

I am new to this whole thing, but man you guys have alot of information and more importantly a ton of fun!

Now a question for you- I am going to change the rear end in my car for a little more top end speed and juice brakes. I have 7:50-16's on there now and they are going to stay. I am putting a B Cam in it, Wico Mag, and a single 94 downdraft.

I have just bought a 1936 Banjo and it already has 3:54 gears in it. Will my engine have enough poop to pull these gears or should I find some 3:78's for the rear?


Thank you,

Tim

 

Here is my favorite bangers from the GNRS this week end. The race car building was bitchin.

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qzjrd5

b caps are different. model a cap will have a slot in the side of it for the mechanical advance lever. model b cap will not have the slot. is yours bad?

glad to see your trying to get it running...a couple words of advice. if it's spitting and sputtering (very technical talk here!), make sure you keep an eye on the temp of the engine. a lot of times one that's been setting for a long time will have a leak around the intake manifold that causes it to run lean.

by the way....don't be afraid to ask lots of questions. it's a lot cheaper to do that than to not ask questions. dive in and enjoy that banger....and if you don't enjoy it, sell it to me!

 

I think the 3:54 gears would be ok. A lot of the touring guys use that ratio. It wont be that quick out of the hole, but it will cruise better at highway speeds. With the engine mods, it should be ok around town too.

Here is the trans calculator I like to use.

http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculatorfin.jsp


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Crazyd,

Thanks for getting some close ups of that sprint and the Winfield "2 up 2 down"- I was hoping someone would!!!

 

is anyone using a Dodge 4-cyl?

 

RICHFOX is... you REALLY WANT to look at his posts in the Banger meets!!!

What year Dodge 4 do you have?

 

bought a 1919. wanted to have a car besides the good ol' truck, and V's don't do it for me. one row of cylinders is plenty, whether it's 4, 6, or 8. just love inlines. I'll look up rich fox, thanks!

 

i need some advice on repairing the crack on the outside of my banger....any ideas. it's out, but i've not tore it down yet.

 

Andy,
Can you post a picture of the crack?

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thanks for a pics Crazydaddyo... I have to get there some day

 

OK guys I am at the point I need to build my seat Australian build cars had a timber base, I have nothing to measure off but I would like it to look original if I can. I intend to use ply. Can someone measure their seat base and where it sits in the car. Thanks for the help. ( Iam getting close) Brendan

 

it's on the outside above number one cylinder. it's in the outside of the curve about #1. left side of the engine. hairline crack but enough to let a little what seep out and down the side of the block. about 1.5 - 2 inches long.

i tried to show it in the video that i posted in december i think...or was that last month...anyway it's kinda hard to see in the video.

i will try to get a pic or post the video again.

 

Do you know of a source of the"B" caps wthout the slot?

 

I have never bought a new one so I don't know where to source one. I am going to a good early ford swap meet this weekend and will look for a few if you guys need some.

Let me know what you would pay for a nice one and / or what kind of condition you would like. I can take pics with my cell phone and email / text you before i buy. no profit to me. My phone is 417-766-3502. I will be there possibly Thurday, for sure Friday and Saturday.

Still looking for a pic of the crack cdo. i am out of town now.

 

In last month's meet I got some good advice about the babbit on my rear main cap being unusable (Thanks again guys!).

What is the going rate for rebabbitting these days and does anyone know of someone in the the southeast that can do it?

OR

Would anyone happen to have a '27-'28 Chevrolet rear main cap with GOOD babbit?

Thanks as always for putting up with this ignorant yankee

 

a teacher of mine that is into old tractors showed me this, he has fixed a couple old blocks he had this way and it works great, i think you can get a beginner kit for a little over 100 bones and it should be able to fix that crack. it may look crazy but it works!!!

http://www.locknstitch.com/

and here is a pretty good example of a crack being fixed, it shows how it's done, you are basically just drilling out and replacing the metal with out the heat that is involved with welding

http://www.locknstitch.com/Repair pdf files/Cummins 5.9 crack repair instructions.pdf

 

I'm using an "A" cap, I don't believe they repop the "B" I'm not looking for a "B" cap. unless it is NOS. A lot of the repop "A" caps (Bodies) have a concentricity problem and some suppliers match the cap and rotor. I think a NOS "B" cap in a ford box might be good but I wouldn't want a foreign repop.
You might consider JB weld for that crack. Ted of Ted's Floaters told me in an Email that he uses his wire feed welder to repair cast Iron cracks, haven't tried it myself but I have used JB weld.

 

I dont know if this helps or not, but I needed to change position of my water neck drastically, after cutting it up I got it positioned it and thought I wonder if my mig would bond it enough to keep together, I tacked it lightly and thought man that looks great, so I heated it up and tried it, it welded better than most mild steels, I didnt think it would last long but its been on for almost two years now and shows no signs of leakage. sorry the pic isnt very good.

 

My banger is just sitting in the garage - damn I need more time...

But on a funny note - CDO and Andy are sharing pictures and video of Andy's crack!

We are a tight knit bunch... On a serious note, my block had a 2-3" crack on the driver's side water jacket by the #2 piston. I think this is the method Ron K. used to fix it: drill the ends to stop the crack from spreading and then used a high nickel rod to weld it shut. That is obviously a description from me (someone who has never done this before).

 

Two birds, one stone. "Cracked block brazing" thread by RichFox http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=300266

 

I used the locknstitch on my stock head worked mint... A lot of old boat guys use it.

 

i'm curious as to how some of you guys have the choke set up on your cars?? most of the pics i see dont have the choke hooked up, is it not really needed?? love to see some pics of guys that are running the choke.

 

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I flip mine by hand but only if it real cool ( under 30 )

 

What is a choke? I've never seen one here in So Cal. Saw one in a book once.

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I think I need more pics of your car FRO...