Projects '40 Ford frame repair, Welding advice?

This is the best frame I could find for my '40 PU. I asked a friend who is a welder if he would fix it for me, he said no, it should be put on a frame table before any cutting/welding is done. Does anyone have any advice? Would I be stupid to try and brace it somehow and do it myself? or should I pay pro with a frame table to to it?
-Nick

 

I agree with your friend. To get it right you should put it in jig/table. I would also recommend boxing it in the front and rear to help reinforce the repair. Unfortunatley the cost of paying someone to fix and modify it will probably cost close to what it would to buy a whole new frame.

 

You could probably get an aftermarket frame for what that one would cost to fix.

 

I'd make a nice piece to butt weld the inner first them same for outside. Looks like it was full of dirt and rusted out. How good is the frame to begin with?

 

you could do the repair then have a friend put it up on a frame machine. i would box it up then do the repair.

 

no reason you can't fix that frame. if your not doing a restoration why not? what is the cost of a new frame. buy a welder and go for it. check out the frame on my 38' in my albums as it needs some TLC from somebody installing a 50' ford front suspension. if i found a complete front frame clip with axle i would cut mine in half and add the new one with no worries. thats how they did their collision repairs years ago.

 

Start by getting ahold of a blueprint for your frame. Then check yours against the correct dimensions. Depending on how yours matches up come up with a logical plan to repair ir. If you've never done this kind of work it would be best to contact csomeone who has. It IS very helpful to have a ridgid frame table to work off of but not entirely necessary if you continually check dimensions and squareness while doing the repair. Again, an experienced hand is best.
BTW, frame dimensions are in the back of Wescott's catalog or on their website.

Frank

 

If you got time...
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=306987

 

I would like to see a shot showing more of the frame. and know what you are attempting with the finished car ( i.e daily driver ect.) . that being said... I would not be afraid to have it repaired. I repaired the frame of a 50's ford truck by cutting out the bad section and replacing it with section from a parts truck. I cross braced the frame in all directions, removed the bad area, took several reference measurements, cut and ground the replacement section and butt welded it in. I cant tell in your picture but in my case I cut out and removed the entire piece, top to bottom and 2 feet long, meaning my frame was in 2 pieces. in your case you may only need the lower portion which would make it even easier.

My repair was done many years ago and I drive the truck daily with no signs of any failure. I am sure there will be others who think otherwise but for my budget and situation Im glad i did it. Its really no different than the way some guys clip front ends.

PM if you need additional pictures. before, during and after.

 

that frame can be fixed easy enough. 35-40,(41 truck) in the aftermarket are high dollar. Cleaning, grinding, migging, and more grinding is all you need to make that frame useable.

 

What he said, I've seen worse and I've seen better. Metal is metal, do it right as it is your foundation.

 

A buddy and I fixed my 36 frame using some repair pieces from precisioncoachworks.com., they fit pretty decently. Everything was jigged on a frame table, leveled and measured for square and mig welded with a 220v Miller. We plug welded large fish plates on the inside rails and boxed the outside frame rails. Took some time but I prefer original Henry Ford steel to the aftermarket stuff...

 

Me and Toast did his while the body was on it!!! Worked fine! give it a shot!!

 

This is the truck it's going under, so it doesn't have to be perfect, just want a solid/useable frame. This is the best frame I could find in my budget, think it was $200 with the rear axle and steering column, the only rust free frames i found were $1000+, and too far away....

 

looks good!

 

I build 28-48 repro chassis in my shop, but if someone came to me with that frame and a budget I would tell them to use what they have. I no longer do repairs, but I would start with a good sand blasting to see where the weak spots that might be hiding are then go from there. Get it square and level. I started 40 years ago with a good set of steel saw horses, a flat floor, and 4 weights to keep the frame tied down. I know a lot of guys knock Wescotts diagram but it's dam close. You can buy a lot of tools for the cost of a repro chassis. You gotta learn sometime, and now is the time. (I think I just shot my foot off!)

 

Maybe...but I think you gave out some great advice !

 

YOU can fix that no problem. You can't pay some one else to fix that for less than the $1000 frame three states away, at least if it's done right. Check for more hidden rust, at the top of the kickup, and at the rear near the gas tank mounting.

 

My frame on my 36 had a few issues and I cut the crap out of it and welded all back together using stationtions bolted to the Floor and cross supports. Just get a good welder than can handle 3/16 thick Material in a single pass, A cut off wheel and a good grinder and go for it. Or bring it down to Texas and we can do it together for next to nothing.

 

getting it blasted first is a good plan of attack. $200 bucks for it was a score. hell it started out in 9 pieces whats a few more gonna hurt!

 

Its a normal place to rot out on them, just dive in and measure corner to corner to make sure it stays square, it's always on the exhaust side too, i had 2 of those frames, both were rotted out there

 

If the frame is straight, just tack in some bracing then do the repair. Unless you are building a flats car or something where perfect tolerances are a must you should be good to go.

I know what the right way in a perfect world/pocketbook is however some of us just need to get the job done and it is more than possible to do yourself.

It's not rocket surgery.

 

I totally agree with Probesport. Go for it yourself!

 

if that rrailer it is on is stiff you can use that for a frame table. i have done it many times on my car trailer.

 

Here's another link...


http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=429063

 

IMO, listen to Krylon32, If someone who builds frames like his says do it, then just do it.

 

Yeah, Gary (Krylon32) knows his stuff.

 

i replaced the entire passenger side rail on my 36, it came out great

 

WOW! looks good! hopefully mine wont need this much But it does make me less afraid of cutting mine up to fix, did frame stay square without any bracing?

 

Yep. Since you already indicate that you know how to weld. It ain't rocket science............ Even if you ARE doing a restoration.