power hacksaw

I have a chance to pick up a old power hacksaw with coolant system. It will cut up to 8" wide. It currently has a 3phase motor that I would need to replace with a 110V.
Will this type unit cut true 90 degree cuts in tubing, as no mater how hard I try my Delta chop saw wanders all over the place and produces junk.

I need to build a chassis for my 28 chev project and the price on this unit is $120 and it is smaller that a horizontal band saw. I only have a 24' x 24' shop to work in so space is important.

thanks for your help

jim h

 

Jim, they are nice. We have one at work and it does a nice cut but it's not much more accurate than a chop saw. It is nice, though, to put a big old chunk of metal in it, then go do something else while the cutting takes place.

 

I have an old power hack saw and rarely use it. Its so worn it needs to be babysat to stay straight and not break the blades. Will this one work out better for you? It might but the condition of the machine is pretty important. I gave up and bought a chop saw.

 

They are great old machines and if it is cheap swoop up on it. but they are slow. I used to use one and I would set it cutting and go to lunch. but it was a straight sure cut.

 

I like mine.
You have to put it back in to good running shape and take the play out if it if you want the best cut.
I like the fact that is uses common hacksaw blades.

MOST of the trick to get a straight and true cut is not to let the blade bend and twist during cutting.
That usually means lower pressure on the blade as it cuts, or at least during the start of the cut until the blade has a lot of surface area inside the cut to support the blade.
When there is only a small surface inside the "cut" to support the blade, it will try to wander. When the cut gets longer and has more surface to support the blade, you can raise the cutting pressure without worrying the blade will flex and run off track.

What I do with mine is use my hand to slightly lift on the end of the "hacksaw frame" to help the blade run lightly at the beginning of the cutting. When the cut gets enough area in it to support the blade, I then let go of it and let the full weight of the cutting-frame rest on the working blade as it cuts.
Usually I don't get much blade wander when I start it right.

 

After lunch today I'm going back to pick up the machine. For a $120 bucks and some time cleaning it up it should work better than my chop saw. I have an electric motor I can borrow from my cement mixer ( I use only every 5 years ? ) so that will hld the cost down. This machine uses a 1" x 16" blade so that should help from keeping the blade true.
thanks for the help. I will post some pictures when I get the beast.

jim h

 

Are ya' talking a power "hacksaw", ( reciprocating) or a horizontal "bandsaw"???

I think, you are speaking of the latter, and you can get them "dialed in", to cut squarely, if they are of quality construction.

 

power hacksaw. the blade is motivated back and forth by an arm working off a gear system from the electric motor.
The beam holding the saw is about 1/4" to 5/16" thick x 2" high.
I think this machine probably weighs about 300# or more.

 

Is it by any chance a Marvel? I worked in one shop that had one, old as the hills but would cut anything, exotic stainless, titanium, etc. Post some pix of it when you get it. You might want to power it up with 220 if you have a real heavy duty saw on your hands.

Bob

 

Excellent!!!!

It will serve you well, Grasshopper.................They cut much better ( I M O ), than a horizontal bandsaw.