Quickchange supposed to get THAT hot?

Where can I get one of those Alloy Banjo sections please? Price?

 

Agreed! I dig the straight cuts as well!

 

We found our winters rear to be poorly assembled at the factory with bearings installed with a bind in them. No way even close to the "specs" on their tag. Dont bother calling Winters... You'll only get an attitude in response..I've never heard such an "Our shit dont stink" technician.

 

when touching things and feeling them to see if they are hot keep in mind that your water heater at home only heats ti 140 degrees and at that temperature if you put your hand in it it will scald you. so when you touch it and cant keep your hand on it it probably isnt that hot best way to check temp is with a thermometer either infra red or even a meat or candy thermometer. differentials do get hot and 180-200 degrees isn't unusual . i used to race a oval track race car and at the end of a main event if the engine , trans, and rear were at 200 degrees everything was perfect .

 

put a 9'' for goodness sake its a truck, guickie means more money

 

The only thing I'd add is that I always ran the big gear covers on my Q/C's in my late models, and they never got so hot that the bearings would just drop out. The extra capacity of the gear lube, plus the extra surface area of the cover, does a lot of good.

Agree with the comments above regarding Winters. I always had great luck with Frankland, Coleman, and Richmond rears.

 

I see a market for a rear end oil temp gauge...........

 

Who put the rear together? Could something like not enough backlash bewteen the ring and pinion cause excessive heat?

I'm no rear end expert, just throwing a "what if" out there.

 

Brian is right. ring/pinion mesh is most important. I had to try many different size
shim gaskets on the bells (and switching from side to side ) before I think I got it right.
Mines a Halibrand v8 with straight cuts and been running cool now for 4 years.
I use a sticky red lube from Central Petro out of Iwoa. Its High Torque Temp Tech.
Big rig truck rears also use this simular type of sticky red grease. Good stuff.

 

Don Orosco makes his own and unlike what "exStreamliner's" supplier, Don's are a PERFECT fit. Don owns some of the finest cars in the country from perfect Scarab's to the roadster at the GNRS with the Riley ohv converted flathead to the Dick Flint roadster......I hope this helps.....Mike
He also sells aluminum and magnesium '32 V8 oil pans, 16 plug aluminum heads for flatheads,etc. You can contact his office and they'll email you a price list.
His email address [email protected]
Don Orosco
Monterey, CA
831/649-0220 (days)
831/626-2660 (evenings)
Eddie Meyer heads, Ardun and Eddie Meyer intake manifolds

 

They make them, don't they?????

One of those screw in , pipe threaded, water temp gauges.........Like Moon Equipment sells???

Or a similar one from Mc Master-Carr.............

Or an automatic transmission temp gauge, if you prefer a remote readout..........

Or, "Touch your rear end daily", as you seem to prefer..................teee hee hee!!!

 

Autometer has a diff temp gauge:
http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.aspx?gid=3088&sid=11
Not sure if they have them in other series, but really any oil temp gauge should work just fine. My Winters QC center has an NPT port for a temp sender.

If, like most of us, you are short on space for all the gauges you have convinced yourself you need, it isn't hard to buy an extra sensor and toggle switch so that one gauge can be used to display, for example, diff temp and trans temp as controlled by the switch.

 

Larry, I don't think you had a big problem with th rear... Everyone I've talked to said they get hot... It's a matter of degrees I guess...

You might have had a little drag somewhere but it was a long drive and heli gears get hotter than straight, etc...

In fact as a side story, have you ever wondered why the Cyclone QC has a big threaded bung in the center of the cover? It's so you can pop it off with a slide hammer... Partially so you don't bang up the cover tryin to drive it off by the ears like on a Halli cover... Partially so you don't burn the crap out of yourself at the track...

But back to your truck and the yes or no on a QC for it...

MHO... Don't put on a quicki unless you actually plan on changing the gears... It's just added monkey motion if you don't or if you have a OD trans or it's a purely street car...

There's just something pure, clean, and solid about the stock 40 rear... Especially under a traditional truck...

Plus the truck will run cooler, quieter, smoother and faster... Isn't that what hot roddings about?

 

Don's repro's are cast off an original Halibrand 102A or 102M... like any racing part they were designed to improve inherant weaknesses of the OEM part they were replacing... they weren't designed for eye candy or as replacement parts... some of those rail were cranking serious horsepower and the flank/yoke areas were failing and that is why they are meatier in the weakest area... it makes since when your when looking at dressing up a non race car that they would machine off the excess material to make them direct replacements of the Form units... If ya wanta race with vintage parts then Halibrand's design has a purpose... hopefully Don has them available in either configuration because they are rare today

 

I'm not questioning what you said in your original post as well as this one. I simply stated a fact....Don Orosco's reproduction parts,no matter what they may be, are the best in the world in quality, fit and finish. His parts prices reflect their quality.

 

This is the NOS Halibrand "No Change " Orosco bought from me on eBay , that he used for the pattern of his reproduction .......Z

 

Yep.....Don's a great guy and his parts are exquisite.

 

Simply said, if you are building a hot rod, it is going to be HOT!

 

My 2 cents..H&C Mags, 4 jug manifolds and quickies weren't designed for street use. They look neat and sound neat. Not saying don't run 'em, just be prepared to tinker and cuss a bit.

 

Thanks for all the replies guys...think I'm gonna go with a '40 rear...maybe beef it up with Rod Works 9" axles.

 

there you go, 9" axles rule

 

I like mine (Winters w '40 internals) Its not that loud and it does'nt run really hot although I run striaght cut gears and I havent drove it for 12 hours at a time
either way Im sure your truck will be super nice

 

Just heard back from Don Orosco himself.

The Halibrand non quick change is priced at $1500, I'm saving as from now!

 

I looked through my old shots and found some pixs of the Halibrand non-quick change rear before it was bead blasted and assembled... they give you a better view of the original yoke/flange area... I was told Chassis Reasearch was still selling chassis set-up for this style of rear until 63/64 and some were still going strong until the mid-60's

 

ex- streamliner: that frame looks great. Have you posted your work on another thread.
I wanna see more of this. Turn it over so we can get a gander at that beauty please.

 

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=431579

 

12 hour drive, entire diff is very hot to the touch, normal.
Something that can trickle down from what I've learned with big trucks........
Conventional oil vs synthetic oil----transmission and rearend temps down by 15 to 25 degrees when using synthetic, and paying a 2x to 2.5x price for the product used. Temps down because friction is decreased by lube product.
Some additives are proven to help lower temperatures even more with both types of oils.
Helical cut gears run quieter, generate more heat than straight cut gears. Surface contact.
And then assembly tolerances as stated before. Production assemblers vs real gear unit builder.

 

damn, do I ever like the looks of that no-change rear. I've got two quickchanges for my projects but I just might give Orosco a call and order one of those. What the hell, It's only money.

Frank

 

Late to this conversation but I run a Winters Championship rear on the street with 3.57 straight-cut gears and it does run pretty hot. I bought some genuine Winter's gear oil and it runs a little cooler. Your heat/hot experience would sound normal.
It's a great setup and while it costs more, it looks great on a car with an exposed real axle like a lakes modified. I think it's the only way to go. Just my two cents.

 

I mentioned Lubrication Engineers gear oil in a previous post (#24). It was the best lube I ever used in my sprint car quick-changes. I see that Speedway Motors sells it in two different weights.