I have a 1962 Cadillac Fleetwood Series 60 that I just rebuilt the carb on (Carter AFB). I am having an issue with the vehicle surging/bucking when given gas. I can get the car to idle just fine and go 5-10mph alright, then once I give it gas and it's over 15-20mph it starts surging and running like total crap. I pulled the car over and messed with the air/fuel screws on the carb and I can get it to idle fine again then once I drive it around it only takes a minute or so to start bucking again. I noticed that once I turn the key and power up the car it takes about 10 seconds or so to prime the fuel lines so the gauge reads. I have had 1 person tell me they believe my fuel pump is shot just by listening to my issues. Any suggestions? Any help is much appreciated!! Thanks.
If it ran fine before you rebuilt the carb, double check your float setting. If the needle isnt coming off the seat enough to fill the carb bowl, your engine will starve for fuel under load.
It did the same thing before we rebuilt the carb. It was the main reason I rebuilt it..in hopes it would solve this issue. The car ran fine for a few months now this, which is why I'm thinking there is something that may have gone bad? The needles and everything else in the carb actually looked pretty good before we rebuilt it.
You sure it's the carb? The old rule of thumb was low rpm ignition and high rpm fuel. Could you have bad points or condenser? Bad plug sires or plugs? If it's the carb, then your rebuild missed the problem and that does not sound right.
Fuel pump. Also be sure to run the fanolic spacer under the carb it is a must. I'm sure I spelled that wrong. Also on the 62 the fuel line is way close to the exhaust(pass side at the framerail by the footboard. Vapor loc is a problem with them also.
Could be right about that fuel pump then. Do you still have the glass bowl filter on the pump or another one in line somewhere? Those pumps are rebuildable and the seals dry out from sitting (your dry air in AZ would speed that up. Those old pumps are kinda expensive if I remember right and I ended up putting an electric pump on my 60 caddy years ago
Thanks for the response guys. The original spacer is still under the carb. I think I'm gonna check out replacing the fuel pump and see where that gets me.
yes I still have the glass bowl with a brand new filter. Am I to look for a electrical or mechanical fuel pump?
Stock pump definately looks better and they work great...if the lobe ain't wore out. Which could help cause the low fuel pressure.
Pumps drivien off a "lobe" on the cam by a push rod. Ifthe lobe goes away, rod doesn't push on the pump as much, fuel pressure goes away. No, the pump does not come with a new lobe. Might want to check fuel pressure before you step up for a new pump. Also, like some one said earlier, make sure your points are good and the dwell is set right.
i am not sure what you consider expensive fo rteh fuel pump, but here is one for 43 brand new shipped to your door with arm attached. when i got mines ona 62 i had, wne right in with a warranty, dont by ebay for 100 something http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductList.aspx?parttype=52&ptset=A&searchfor=Fuel+Pump (exact writiing) <TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=547 border=0 valign="top"><TBODY><TR class=bgalt id=_ctl0_content_PartsRepeater__ctl1_ContentRow><TD vAlign=top width=250><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 border=0><TBODY><TR><TD>Airtex Mechanical Fuel Pump </TD></TR><TR><TD>Mechanical Fuel Pump:</TD></TR><TR><TD>Warranty: Limited 1 Year* </TD></TR><TR><TD></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD><TD width=15></TD><TD id=_ctl0_content_PartsRepeater__ctl1_AvailabilityCell vAlign=top width=100> Ships in 1 day </TD><TD id=_ctl0_content_PartsRepeater__ctl1_SpacerCell width=10></TD><TD id=_ctl0_content_PartsRepeater__ctl1_PriceCell vAlign=top align=middle width=80><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 border=0 valign="top"><TBODY><TR id=_ctl0_content_PartsRepeater__ctl1_DisplayPriceRow><TD align=middle>$53.99</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
It sounds like a fuel delivery problem. Suggested order: (1) check/replace fuel filter (2) check tank vent (MUST be open) (3) check/replace fuel pump Jon.
Welp guys.... Just got done working on the car. Replaced fuel pump (easy job) and drove it around the block. Everything was working great! Drove to get gas, drove around the neighborhood..... then Bam! It starts doing the exact same thing. I'm at a stop light and light turns green I hit the gas and get rolling and it starts stuttering/bucking. The fuel filter is new, carb is rebuilt, new fuel pump. That's where i'm at. Car was running great about 2 months ago. I got a locking gas cap, would that be it? I also had to rig a new system for a fuel line between the pump and filter, it has a bend but it's not Kinked (see attached photos), would that be it? Anymore help would be greatly appreciated.
Had a bad condenser years ago that did the exact same thing. The car would actually idle fine, but could not take any throttle. The can be heat affected so the will work OK until the get a little warm and bam - bad. You might try a different condenser and see.
I'll vote for fuel problems - 1) Check the locking cap, I don't know where the vent for the tank on your car is but if the cap shuts off the vent, the pump can't suck fuel because of the vacuum. Try running it without the cap; an easy check 2) Fuel line kinked/clogged; the kink could be somewhere back along the frame. If it's clogged at the tank you might have dirt/rust in the tank clogging the inlet - no easy fix unless there is a drain plug in the tank (I don't know when GM stopped putting plugs in gas tanks)
Wouldn't a kinked line cause issues at idle as well? This only happens when the car is hot and driving.
A kinked line might not affect idle, but I would be looking at everything that cna be affected by heat - a fuel line too near a heat source (vapor lock) a coil that is marginal, the condenser. Also check fuel pressure, too much with an AFB is a bad as too little, try the car with the fuel cap off or very loose to make sure it is not a clogged vent and make sure the cap is a vented type and not a modern sealed unit.
Just tried the cap off and it's still the same, it was idleing funny as well. Which it does once it goes into this stage. Once it starts bucking/surging it messes the idle as well until the car is completely cooled off. Hmmm, not sure what to do at this point. I guess I will try the condensor at this point. Is that hard to change? It's in the distributor correct? Sorry i'm a novice. I know that the cap and rotor is new. along with new wires/plugs.
Also, is it beneficial to get a points & condenser set or just the condenser first to see if that fixes it.
Just installed a new condenser.... same problem. Drove the worst it ever has in fact. can't even get above 10 mph. I'm thinking it's a fuel issue just do to the fact that when i runs like crap I can hear popping coming from the exhaust. Any other options guys... could it be my homemade fuel line from the pump to the filter? I'm gonna turn the car on and try to straighten out that line and see what happens.
You may as well get a set of points too (good ones, not Chinses cheapos) while you're in there; it's not like they cost $200.00.
I put the phenolic spacer back on when i rebuilt the carb, it's just that very think piece of sheet metal above the gasket correct??
Im just wondering if its not your distributor bushings ,I had a worn out distributor on my 69 firebird ,Drove me nuts ,Rebuilt carb and sent out to professional ,Only charged me 40 .00 ,So I threw 40.00 away .While it was out getting repaired. I put a 670 holley on there same problem ,Bought an hei distributor and solved problem ,Idled fine as soon as I got on it a little bit It would break up .
Bingo. Do # 1. If that doesn't fix it look at every inch of your fuel line from tank to carb. And I don't like that severe bend in between the filter and carb. I think it kinks when you drive it.
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