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$50 paintjob- you gotta see this!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by graverobber63, Jun 28, 2006.

  1. graverobber63
    Joined: Sep 8, 2004
    Posts: 4,134

    graverobber63
    Alliance Vendor

    http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&an=0&page=0#Post2331682

    Holy shit.

    [​IMG]

    here's how i painted my car for about $50, it's actually very easy and the results are amazing. First off, get a can of tremclad real orange (or what ever color u want) in the can, not spray, yes tremclad, it is a acrylic/enamel paint which is very durable. next prep your car as if was any other paint job, fix all the rust, ect....no need to prime the car since the tremclad allready contains elements which allow it to be painted over bare metal. next, after prepping the car get a small 4" professional FOAM rollers, it's tiny and has one end rounded off, and the other cut straight, and is a very high density foam. u also need a jug of mineral spirits to thin the paint. The thing i really like about this is that there's no mess, no tapeing the whole car, just key areas, and u can do it in your garage, since your not spraying there is virtually no dust in the air, just clean your garage first, also it does'nt really smell at all, dries overnight and it super tough paint. also it you decide to paint the car professionally later, just prep and paint, there's no need to strip the tremclad. i have done this to a few cars, and i can say it works amazing, u just have to be paitient. next u thin the paint with mineral spirits so it just about as thin as water, a little thicker. get out the roller and paint away, don't get the paint shaked when u buy it, enamel is stirred, otherwise you'll have bubbles in the paint for a week!!! after u do 2 coats, wet sand the whole car, then repeat, 2 coats, wetsand, 2 coats wetsand. i painted the charger using a can since your not spraying the car u use all the paint and not spray 50% in the air, use progressivly finer sand paper each time. it's not really that much work, cause u can stop and start any time, u can do just a door, or the hood, ect. do one panel at a time, and don't stop once you start. once your done the final coat, wetsand with about 1000 grit to a totally smooth finish, and then using a high speed polisher i use a buffing bonnet and turtle wax polishing compound. do the whole car with this, and i'm telling u, depending on the amount of time and paitence you have, the results are amazing. laugh if you want, but for $50 ($30 for paint, about $20 for rollers, sand paper, ect...) it really looks good. also you can do these steps overnight, paint one evening and by morning u can wet sand. i have personally done alot of painting, mostly single stage acrylic enamel, and i've sprayed several cars in my garage with really good professional results, just it stinks, it's a real pain to do, easy to make a mistake, messy, and expensive. The tremclad is awesome paint, the "real orange" is an amazing hemi orange, and almost looks like it has some perl in the sun, awesome color right out of the can. I used this technique on my 1974 beetle also, here are the results:
    http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/Picture10.jpg
    the car before:
    http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/IM000475.jpg
    another after pic:
    http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/DSC00164.jpg
    here is a car i sprayed (71 beetle, midnight blue metalic):
    http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/DSC00194.jpg
    here is the car before (71 beetle):
    http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/Picture1.jpg

    here's a few pics of the charger done:
    http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/DSC02764.jpg
    http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/DSC02769.jpg

    well that's my 2 cents worth, sorry for the long post. i was borred lol
    i painted the orange beetle in 1999, and it still looks like the day i painted it, the 71 blue beetle i painted in 2000, and built the car for my dad, i used the same paint on my charger, maybe one day i'll spring for a good paint job, prepping is 90% of the work, stripping the car, sanding, ect.....painting is overrated!!!
    So if you have TIME, then i'd say go for it, the worst that could happen is that it does'nt turn out and your out $50, but if your paitient, and expriement with lets say just the trunk pannel and if you like it do the whole car, if not just get it done by someone else for $4000. i don't know about you guys, but i would rather spend the $4000 on other parts like getting the mechanics sorted out and new chrome, cause when u have really nice paint and crappy bumpers, door handles it just sticks out more.

    Yes i painted it with a "profesional" high density foam roller. The trick is in how you thin the paint, get it as thin as possible without running, and the paint "self levels" it comes out like glass, wet sanding just makes it better, it all depends on how much time u have. i have sprayed a few cars in my garage with a single stage acrylic enamel and it's a pain, messy, stinks, ect... the tremclad is almost odorless and is really easy to work with. u can paint one day, wetsand the next and immedieatly recoat. once you got all the coats on, just wetsand and buff with a compound, then wax and your good to go. i've done 3 cars this way and the 74 beetle i did 6yrs ago, still looks awesome. the paint is cheap like $30 a gallon, you can get it tinted to any color u like. on the charger i used about 3/4 of a can, when u spray even with a HVLP gun, u still waste about 30% of the paint that just goes in the air. Tremclad is basically rust paint, but it is the new type which is a enamal. i still strip the car of chrome, bumpers, handles, keylocks, basically everything, and then just tape only using tape where i might get paint on something i don't want painted. the paint is tough, like stove paint when it's done, i've spilt gas on it in like really hot weather, and it resists stone chips really well. i had to repaint a fender on the beetle like 2 yrs ago, so i just got a small can of paint 3 yrs later and the color match is exact.

    i'm up in Canada, here it's called Tremclad, in the US it would be the rustoleum or something like that, it's a rust paint, buffs really nice, but make sure it's the new stuff like a enamal, or acrylic enamal. goes right over anything and does'nt react with any old paint, right over bondo, don't use any primer, just the paint. on a car i used to have i had it professionally painted 4 yrs after i painted it and they put a base/clear on it with no isues. it's really easy to do just be paitient, take your time, test on something first and perfect the tequnique, as a hint if you try it first you paint the surface, and then really lightly "skim" the surface with the weight of the roller only to remove any lines bubbles ect, then just leave it for a minute or two and you'll see it just "self levels" totally flat to glass. then wetsand it really fine, use a spray bottle and keep the paper really wet, finish with a 1000 grit or so and then buff with a random orbit polisher using turtle wax POLISHING compound, NOT the rubbing compound, its' to harsh. it is critical to use the proper roller, it's about 4" wide and about 1 1/2" thick, and really high density white foam. it really works and is much tougher paint than todays single stage or base clear, very hard to scratch, but easy to buff. i get compliments on my paint jobs, and they never believe how i do it.

    guys all i have to tell you is that i first painted a 85 honda crx at my cottage in 1 day, i had no money, i did like 3 coats with no sanding and it looked great, i should scan that old pic and show you!!!. The job only looks as good as the time and effort that you put into it. the paint is extreemly durable, think about it, it's used to paint over rusted metal on things like tractors, metal railings, ect... and stand the elements. it is formulated to do just that. the tequnique is critical, u have to have a "feel" for how much to thin the paint and u have to use mineral spirits, not paint thinner like varsol. I could not even imagine how well it would turn out if you sprayed it with a HVLP gun and wet sanded and polished. It does "self Level" on the sides just as it does on the flat level surfaces. Like i said before it is critical on how you thin the paint and how you apply it. i did the charger in about 3 days. i got sick of going to body shops and them telling me either they don't do classic cars and if they did want to do the car i need at least $5000 even though the car was stripped and prepped!!!! the auto painting industry is in my opinion a total rip off so if you want it done right and cheep, do it yourself!!! when the paint is thinned your barley putting on any paint with each coat, so you really need to do about 6 coats to get enough of a base so you can wet sand and polish. it took me a long time to figure out what steps to take to get awesome results. my 74 bug looks awesome even after 6 years the paint is still mint. looks like the day i did it. that paint dries FAST, so literally you can wetsand overnight. Keep in mind i know a little about painting, i've shoot a few cars with single stage enamel with professional results, but it's expensive and tedious. I used duplicolor paint, primer, reducer and primer sealer on this car:
    http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/DSC00194.jpg
    it looked like this before paint:
    http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/Picture1.jpg
    that car was painted midnight metalic blue, and flips awesome in the sun. a very hard color to do cause it's almost black and shows every imperfection. but as you can see in the pic it came out awesome. but the materials alone (paint, reducer, primer, primer sealer) cost about $250 CDN, which was alot, never mind the work.
    the "tremclad" paint is really a awesome alternetive, since your rollering it on there's no dust and you get a really clean paint job if you do it in your garage, where if you spray theres a battle with dust.
    when i painted with the Tremclad i just use the paint, no primer, nothing, just the paint, right over bondo. like i mentioned before after wetsanding use a random orbit polisher and the cheapest POLISHING COMPOUND made by turtle wax, it comes in a paste in a small round flat container and it's white, allmost looks like hand cream and smells good too!!! I find that after thinning the paint with mineral spirits the paint "flashes" or dries really quickly, and after a overnight period it is completely dry, unlike automotive paint which takes up to 6 months to fully "cure" so litterally the next day you can sand, buff, polish, and wax the paint. on the charger the paint looks really good, i did not take a huge amount of time to perfect it because i really really wanted to drive it!!!. in the spring i plan on wetsanding and polishing it more, but yes it looks like the pics, really good. considering that it cost me about $50 i love it and i'm not paranoid about juicing it on a dirt road and going sideways worring about my precious paint job, i drive the car, hard and alot, after all is'nt that what they're made for? for $50 and a few days of work i can paint it again in a few years!!!! If your not good with your hands, and not a real detail person let someone else paint your car cause it can get ugly really fast!!!! if i had a shop, made a little paint booth and sprayed this stuff on and wetsanded and polished it, i'm sure i could paint show quality cars with $30 worth of paint. keep in mind this paint is really good, like i said bofore i bought a can 3 yrs later to repaint a fender on my 74 beatle and it was dead on for color match, that must tell you about the quality of the paint, i'd give you $100 if you could tell me which fender i painted on this car in person, and its' right out of the can:
    http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/DSC00164.jpg
    keep in mind that you must still prep the car as you would with any other paint job, prepping is all the work and reflects the overall result.
    i did not block sand the car just wetsand progressivly finer paper by HAND, no machine, no block nothing. using any "block" to sand i found the paper got dirty fast and got all plugged up, so do it by hand and keep it really wet, using a spray bottle in one hand and a clean bucket of water and a shammy (dollar store!!!)to clean it off to see how it looks. i prepped the car with 80, then 100, then 200, finished with a 400, did all my body work, and painted. after 2 coats (about 4hrs work for the whole car) i wetsanded with a 600, then did 2 more coats, wetsand with 800, 2 more coats and sand with a 1000-1500 and polish, followed by wax, done......

    one more pointer, when u wet sand the final coat, the paint looks flat, like velvet, if you take a rag soaked with mineral spirits and whipe a spot down that you just sanded, that's what it will look like buffed. if you buff and decide to paint again clean the area with mineral spirts so that and residue from the polishing compound is removed or the paint won't stick. otherwise i have to say the paint is really good, i had a rock hit my hood so hard it sounded like someone thru a golfball at my car really hard, i did'nt even want to look, but there was no chip, just bit of dust at the impact sight. that paint is really good stuff. i'm sure if it was labeled as a auto paint it would cost $200 a can, so keep it quiet shhhhhhh!!!!

    As far as temperature goes it really doesn’t matter, I did my 74 beetle in the dead of winter, it was like -20 deg Celsius, I had a portable heater in the garage and 2x 1500W flood lights, I was warm enough. The charger I did this past September in about 25 deg Celsius and it was really humid with no difference, where when I sprayed a single stage on the 71 beetle I had to use the proper temperature reducer. As far as getting this paint to stick, all I can say is that it is made to be painted on BARE and RUSTED metal. The stuff sticks to rubber, glass, anything, like sh*t on a blanket (if you have kids you'll know what I mean !!! lol). I have no issues or question in my mind that this stuff sticks like crazy to bare metal. I'm sure it would stick on epoxy primer if you sand it with 800 grit before. I have never had any reaction to anything that I’ve painted over, I’ve painted motorcycle gas tanks and plastic covers, 3 cars, over base clear, the front fenders on the charger are fiberglass, no issues. I’ve painted over automotive primer on my 74 beetle where I had exposed metal and knew I would leave it exposed for a while and didn’t want it to rust. I painted right over bondo, where I had a few really minor scratches and dents that I couldn’t bang out, no issues. I had a drop of the paint on glass, it was really hard to get off, I was afraid to use a razor because it could scratch my new windshield so I used a credit card and it was really, really hard to get off. I painted the door jambs, under trunk lid, under hood, everything. Try one panel and see it if works, u have to experiment with it, it took a lot of trial and error for me to get the "technique" down pat. my car is by no means a show car, but I couldn’t justify a $5000 paint job after just buying the car for $11000, buying new bumpers, door handles, emblems, all rubber, windshield, brake booster, heater core, headliner, carpet, door panels, brakes, ect....I spent all my money on the aesthetics, and mechanics, not to mention the car. I kind of rushed the charger because I HAD to drive my dream car as soon as I could. My 74 beetle I really took my time with and it is and looks like a $5000 paint job. I used a foam brush to paint the jambs and tight spots, and just ran the foam roller over it to smooth it out. I used tremclad flat black in a spray can for the rear tail panel on the charger.

    Here are a bunch of close up good high res pics I just took of the car and the supplies I used and a few other pics of the beetle’s I painted:

    http://photobucket.com/albums/d13/69martin/paint/?start=0

    If you have a show car that you've rotisserie nut and bolt restored and have $40000.00 into it then get it painted by someone for $10000.00. If you want a nice, clean, good driver, cheap, easy to do paint job yourself, have the time and patience then try this method. I could strip and prep the car in 1 day since all the body work is done, and have it professionally painted any time if I want. If you have the equipment to spray it on, then by all means spray it on, it would turn out just like any other automotive paint job, only the paint would be a lot cheaper!!!, not to mention you don’t need primer, primer sealer, reducer, ect…. I didn’t want to borrow a compressor again, lug it home, get over spray everywhere, tape the whole car, worry about dust and do a ton more work associated with spraying; been there done that!!!!. Using a roller makes it super easy to do, but it is tricky. This method is not for everyone, but it’s the way I did it!!! My 74 beetle as I mentioned earlier was painted in 1999, I’ve since put 35,000mi, the paint still looks like the day I did it. I did not intend to make my car a show car, just a nice driver, it’s not laser straight, dent free, or perfect, but it sure gets me thumbs up where ever I go and I only spent $50 on supplies, and that ain’t to bad at all.


    well basically i have the roller in one hand, and the foam "paint brush" (in the pics) in the other. you have to work fast because the paint becoms non workable in about 10 mins. so i do one pannel at a time. it goes quickly, takes about 1 hour for a coat on the whole car, i've done 2 coats in 1 day no issues, it dries fast. but for wet sanding i wait overnight. basically in the rain channels i would use the brush and cover it completely, then use the rounded end of the roller and go over it, it's hard to describe, u just have to be paitent and expirement on one pannel like the trunk lid and do the whole process and see if your happy, it's easy to bail the project with only having to re-do the trunklid if you can't handle it or have one of those "what the f*&k am i doing" moments!!!. I also load the roller up quite heavily, then work it until the roller does'nt have so much paint in it and do the detail work after. once you spread the paint wait a minute or so and then just really gently run the roller using only the weight of the roller, on the sides just use very very light pressure as if it were the weight of it. How you thin the paint is critical, i have not had one paint run on any of the cars i've painted. To give you an idea, you really only start to have full coverage to where u can't see any body work or underlying color thru the paint until the 3rd coat. Oh and i strip the car of all chrome, bumpers, rubber, door handles, trim, ect...nothing looks cheaper than a car that's just taped!!! That's the best i can explain it!!

    i would not compare the shine to a base clear paint job, but i would compare it to a good single stage acrylic enamel paint job. plus the more you buff the shinyer it gets, that's where i got lazy, but i plan to buff and wetsand more when i have the free time. i did the charger in 3 days, like i said i was ancy to get it done, doing the pee-pee dance dying to drive it so i rushed it a bit. in the sun it looks amazing, at night it looks perfect, in the shade you can see some flaws but i was not looking for a "perfect" paint job. the beetle however i did over the winter and it really looks good, no complaints. 3 weeks after i bought the charger i was driving it, it was totally stripped, re-did the interior, all the mechanics, and body work. it would have been done sooner if i would have got all the parts i ordered eariler. looking back i don't regret it at all, it was easy and got me on the road fast and cheep. I can allways re-do the paint anytime.
     
  2. graverobber63
    Joined: Sep 8, 2004
    Posts: 4,134

    graverobber63
    Alliance Vendor

  3. mugsy
    Joined: May 18, 2005
    Posts: 277

    mugsy
    Member
    from San Diego

    I've read about this in the past. Since I'm such a cheap ass, it's intriguing but, Rustoleum enamel? Not exactly the name that comes to mind for durability and chip resistance.
     
  4. MyOldBuick
    Joined: Jan 25, 2005
    Posts: 606

    MyOldBuick
    Member

    Go look on the garagejournal.com -- there's a ton of posts and other info on that. I did the same thing to my waverunner and the paint turned out great . . . it was only my lousy prep work that spoiled it. bradndebwatertoys.blogspot.com -- pics of outcome.
     

  5. TINGLER
    Joined: Nov 6, 2002
    Posts: 3,410

    TINGLER

    I got all excited about this when I first saw it.

    I gave it a try and gave up.


    I couldn't get it to even lay halfway smooth.


    .....and the thought of sanding the car repeatedly that many times kinda killed the excitement for me.
     
  6. burger
    Joined: Sep 19, 2002
    Posts: 2,372

    burger
    Member

    I basically had the same experience as Tingler.

    After three coats, you could still see the bodywork below and the finish was real rough. I sanded it once, put more paint on, and when you could still see thru that I gave up. Too much sanding.

    It would be easier to just spray. Like way easier.

    One of my buddies in Upstate NY sprays Rustoleum (using a paint gun, not from the can) on all of his winter toys. It seems to hold up really well for what it is.
     
  7. agreed.. i spray rustoleum (the flat variety) and it works fine... Hell my T was actually close to a $40 paint job by this method..

    You can get into some cheap automotive quality enamel as well.. I don't know what Nasson goes for these days but it was mad cheap... It was really shitty paint but if your a cheap-ass go for it..
     
  8. Thirdyfivepickup
    Joined: Nov 5, 2002
    Posts: 6,093

    Thirdyfivepickup
    Member

    I painted a table with this method. Lots of work. I say if you don't have access to a compresser and spraygun and you don't like aresol cans.... and you like huge forearms... go for it!
     
  9. caffeine
    Joined: Mar 11, 2004
    Posts: 2,439

    caffeine
    Member
    from Central NJ

    fuck that. there are things in life WORTH paying for and sometimes even not doing it yourself.

    prep/sanding is one of them for me.
     
  10. pimpin paint
    Joined: May 31, 2005
    Posts: 4,937

    pimpin paint
    Member
    from so cal

    Hey,

    This method work, and works well, if you follow a few guide lines.

    The use of mineral sprits may be a source of the problem if your
    atempt ended in less than stelar results.

    How well the paint flows out depends on how much you thinned it
    and with what. The shop/driveway tempeture calls the play-

    In warm to hot weather you will need a slower drying thinner.

    For warm weather thin with toluene (sold in paint stores for thinning
    varnish), for hot weather use xylene, also sold in paint and hardware
    stores as a solvent for thinning varnish, oil.

    Swankey Devils C.C.
     
  11. Bugman
    Joined: Nov 17, 2001
    Posts: 3,483

    Bugman
    Member

    I tried it on an old welder and had good results. I wouldn't hesitate to do it on a car. For longevity, prep is important. Also, if you wait till it's colder(but not to cold) it'll take longer to dry, and have more time to level out.
     
  12. George G
    Joined: Jun 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,274

    George G
    Member

    I thought I was the only one using Tremclad. I have used it for years. Great stuff! Just this week I am using one of those electric airless sprayers to paint my AV8 frame with flat black Tremclad.
     
  13. mad-cad
    Joined: Oct 31, 2004
    Posts: 723

    mad-cad
    Member

    I have used the John Deere tractor enamel,it comes in blitz black or satin black,it's $7 a quart and the thinners is $10 a Gallon ,it'll go over anything .I thin it down enuf to squirt it through an airless spraygun normally used to paint houses with latex.There are some nice small fan fine tips for airless sprayers now
    Here's the model A getting painted on the trailer the day we left for Bonneville speedweek last year,the paint was still a bit tacky the next morning in tech inspection.
    Tim :D
     

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  14. re49
    Joined: Jun 7, 2003
    Posts: 196

    re49
    Member

    So is Tremclad the same as Rustoleum or do I have to go to Canada?
     
  15. el Scotto
    Joined: Mar 3, 2004
    Posts: 4,698

    el Scotto
    Member
    from Tracy, CA

    My room mate is trying this out on his Mustang. Pictures are far better than words.

    I don't know exactly what to think of it yet. Seems a hell of a lot easier to just spray a car, but then again I don't have any painted cars.

    [​IMG]
     
  16. Bugman
    Joined: Nov 17, 2001
    Posts: 3,483

    Bugman
    Member

    Yes, they are the same. same company, same product, different name across the boarder
     
  17. The Bomber
    Joined: Dec 10, 2005
    Posts: 548

    The Bomber
    Member
    from mass.

  18. freebird101
    Joined: Feb 13, 2009
    Posts: 1,203

    freebird101
    Member

    sounds? interesting
     
  19. brady1929
    Joined: Sep 30, 2006
    Posts: 9,254

    brady1929
    Member

    something to think about
     
  20. 54 savoy
    Joined: Jan 10, 2009
    Posts: 424

    54 savoy
    Member

    just did my car with ppg pitt tech primer/finish, it's a low voc acryllic with rust inhibiters,i don't know about u.v. protectin i'll ask my paint rep monday,anyway did the car with a 3" paint brush, now i got to get back to sanding,
     
  21. custompainter26
    Joined: Sep 20, 2009
    Posts: 55

    custompainter26
    Member
    from st louis

    If time is money, that paint job just took 5 times as long. My time is worth more to me than all that sanding. With that said, I've seen this before and it's alright. Doesn't look like a professional base clear job though.
     
  22. fitzee
    Joined: Feb 26, 2003
    Posts: 2,862

    fitzee
    Member

    Now this way is the traditional way to paint a car.I have a old "How to restore you antique" book and it has step by step on how to paint your car. Much the same way as done here.The Book I have is from the late 40`s early 50`s. We tend to try to speed up all our work but there was a time that painting a car was not a 2 hour thing. We tend to shun people that paint like this. Why build a Traditional hot rod with traditional parts and top it off with Base clear paint when it is done. I love to see what I call Real tradition paint.Today our paint work is over the top and ever time I see a traditional car with outstanding paint it tends to take away from what the car is. I have paint a lot of cars in the past 25 years and still ever time I see a car with original paint I always look at it closely. It is very rarely perfect paint.

    As for this Trim Clad it is the bomb.A few years back they came out the semi gloss black and I can`t use it enough. Us it on my frames and anywhere that parts are satin.I mix it 1 to 1 with reducer and it covers like nothing else. I have sprayed cars with it and I am painting my Studebaker wagon with it the spring.I put it on with a brush but the wagon is not going to be traditional!!
     
  23. fitzee
    Joined: Feb 26, 2003
    Posts: 2,862

    fitzee
    Member


    The key to this is to finish your body work off and prime it. Body work will act like a sponge it not finished right. As the old saying goes. your paint job is only as good as the body work under it.
     
  24. The Bomber
    Joined: Dec 10, 2005
    Posts: 548

    The Bomber
    Member
    from mass.

  25. hotrod56cars
    Joined: Apr 3, 2007
    Posts: 466

    hotrod56cars
    Member

    Maaco isn't $50. Although time is money some people have a lot more time and a lot less money. My dad would laugh while telling me the story of when his brother's and him painted a car with rollers back in the day. I think he said it was a '37 Olds. Outstanding tech.
     
  26. Not that there's still some relevance in this thread, but if you're reviving a 3 and a half year old thread to post a one-word response, maybe it's time to put the eggnog away and go to bed.
     

  27. I wouldn't even let Maaco paint my toenails.
     
  28. fearnoevo
    Joined: Nov 28, 2009
    Posts: 218

    fearnoevo
    Member
    from Iowa

    I'm Earl Scheib and I'll paint any car for $99.95
     
  29. Rain_man
    Joined: Dec 7, 2009
    Posts: 183

    Rain_man
    Member

    hey i had some guy tell me that he used hose paint and just rolled it on with foam roller. anyone ever here this what would be the results?
    would it work if you want a cheap flat paint?
    whould it make it harder to have a (real paint job) in the future
    i think he said he used the flat black chalk board paint
     
  30. Mr48chev
    Joined: Dec 28, 2007
    Posts: 33,861

    Mr48chev
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Things must be boring in Mass this morning to dig up this old a thread.

    My other hobby/avocation is sailboats and sailing and it is the norm to do what is called a roll and tip on boat hulls where the paint is rolled on followed by a brush that is used to smooth it out.

    For the guys who say that it's too much trouble to sand between coats. It's pretty obvious that you were never involved in lacquer paint jobs because half the paint job is the sanding between coats.

    This obviously isn't for everyone but for a guy who doesn't want to spend a lot of money and doesn't want friggin flat black this just may be the deal.
     

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