20-50 Valvoline race oil (VR-1) with (BG MOA or Comp Cams assembly lube each time) in anything i own with a flat tappet cam. I used to use Shell Rotella, but i have read they changed the formula and removed some of the zink etc that it used to have... But i was of the understanding the Valvoline Race stuff still has it... Mobil 1 in my late model GMC with factory roller cam.
Valvoline VR-1 Racing Oil NON-synthetic 20w-50. Specificaly formulated for flat tappet cams with high spring pressure. I never hurt a camshaft in my life untill about 2001 or so when I smoked four in a three year period. Why everyone was fucking up cams in that time period is pretty well documented, but it comes down to sub-standard lifters and the reduction of zinc (and other hot rod friendly additives) in engine oil. Almost all non-synthetic,over the counter oils are great for old engines except for the reduced zinc content. Add a bottle of BLUE STP (look on the label, it says formulated with ZDDP, that is what you need) and you will be just fine. The whole synthetic vs non-synthetic argument is a whole 'nuther deal. Generally speaking, original old engines do not like synthetic oil due to anti-scuffing properties that effect ring seal on older engines. If you have an original 283 built in 1962, stay away from synthetic. If you have that same 283 built today with modern piston rings, ring tolerances and cyl wall hone synthetic is OK after a 1000 mile non-synthetic break in period. LOTS of good info in the search...it is a pretty hotly debated topic. Good luck, -Abone.
I should add a disclaimer for others......Please dont run out and buy 30 wt. oil for your old vintage motor.... If your really bored and want to read about the zinc debate, there is a great conversation here. The main poster has been sending oil in for testing and getting results back disputing some of the makers claims. http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=195620
5-30 in the winter, Nov to April, 20-50 in the summer. Lowest price available. Usually get it at Checker, when they have a sale it's a better buy than Walmart.
have a 355 olds 11-1 roller engine switched to brad penn 20/50 a couple of years ago. inside of engine looks like a new nickel oil pressure hot or cold never changes. brad penn is the green oil that kendell co. used to make and brad penn bought the co.has all the good stuff in zinc etc. good old pa. oil
Kendall GT-1 50W in the bikes, Quaker State 5W-30 in the cars, and Northland 70W in the fuel bike. Northland sponsors me, I only use 1 qt at a time and throw it away after each pass anyways.
I've lost 3 or 4 cams in the last couple of years to the reduced levels of Zinc/Phosphates,etc. It's sad to hear of Rotella reducing the content.I've depended on it. What's happening to the diesel rigs on our highways,,how are they coping? Or our mowers and tillers,etc? When I broke in my newest 385 Stroker I used "Royal Purple Break-In Oil". I noticed that it smelled identical to rear end grease.The high pressure lubes must have that distinctive odor. Now after reasoning I add a little to all my engines to get the Zinc/Phos levels up. It's depressing how we're under attack everywhere we turn.
I've always wondered how to determine what weight your oil is supposed to be. Why would one recently built 350 engine need 20W-50 and another 10W-30?
I really like Castrol and used it in everything for as long as I can remember. But since the levels of zinc are way down, for my old cars I've been using Chevron Delo 400 and adding half a bottle of Lucas Breakin oil additive to kick up the zinc. I got a couple of thousand miles on the VooDoo Hydraulic Flat Tappet cam in my 383, so far so good. I did the breakin using a full bottle of Lucas with the Delo oil. I still use Castrol in my modern rides.
Thats a great point. People brag about buying high dollar oil for their 2010 vehicle and at the same time say they purchased 10-40 or 20-50. Clueless.
I saved up the older CI-4 diesel oil, it'lll last for a while. Wal-Mart sells Accel brand 10W-40 SF oil marked "for pre 88 cars" should have the zinc.
Rotella in the Power Stroke ........everything else including the race cars use Mobil 1........15w50.......... M.
Texaco 30wt Aviation oil in metal cans. Bought 20 cases years ago at a garage sale for $10 a case, still have a few left
Mobil 1 in the 'gassers', Rotella T in the diesels. Looking at switching to Amsoil.(?) Funny how lots of guys put 'whatever' oil in the stuff they depend on every day! If I need it, it'll wait...if I want it, I gotta have it right now! We humans are an interesting animal!
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