So let's say you have the underside of your car that is already painted, but some rust is startig to break through in spots, like near spot welds. What is the right way to treat this, short of stripping all of the paint off? I mean, POR will handle the rust spots, but other places have paint. Would you just paint the rust with POR (inevitably covering some adjacent factory painted areas) and then undercoat over the whole thing?
I have had very good luck with a product called "CHECKRUST INSL-THANE" made by INSL-X Products Corp. It is a very heavy black polyurethane enamel. If you brush it on it lays down very nicely. Have used it on underpinnings, inner fenders, floor pans etc... Good results for little money. I bought a gallon for $28 at Sipersteen's Paint Store. Divided it up into 4 quart cans to extend the shelf life. A friend of mine built a trailer. He scraped loose rust off of the metal and put this stuff directly onto bare metal. Paint has held up but does not like UV rays so it clouded up a bit. On underpinnings and panels not exposed to the sun this is a great and cheep alternative to POR 15.
Personally, I would probably take at least a wire wheel to the area around the rust and get rid of the paint around it. POR simply isn't made to stick to anything but bare metal. Even if you undercoat the whole thing afterwards, the POR still has a good chance up peeling up underneath it, and then you've kind of wasted your time.
KBS-COATINGS.com I like it so far....not as harmful breathing wise as the POR-15. Only have about 6 months on an old frame as a test.
A newbie here, but I did use POR 15 products on my 29 roadster. Six years later,still great. I did spray one item, the seat springs, with proper breathing gear. The seat springs needed a flexible coating,and the product worked great. It would have taken a very long time to hand brush the seat springs.
I was up in Two Rivers, Wisconsin on a nuke plant upgrade/outage. So busy I didn't see much daylight. Went to work in the dark, went home in the dark. Now that I have something where I can be with the family and work normal hours, I'll be back like a bad penny.
Do any of you Tulsa Guys know where I can round up a quart of POR 15. I'm done dickin around with cheap products that claim they do the same thing. Thanks, Dil
INFO: ALL better take heed......I Real Experience my gloves broke thru using Por-15 Best Damn product ever used numereous times and guess what. It Will Take two (2) weeks to get the damn stuff off of you unless You use the the thinner they recommend!!!! ALL In All Best Choce.
We been using Por-15 one the last few projects but ran into an issue on the last one. We accidentally spilled some brake fluid while bleeding the brakes. Didn't hurt the single stage urethane paint in the engine compartment but lifted the Por-15 on the floor like it was a cheap enamal. Didn't think anything was suppose to touch Por-15. Maybe we found a way of removing it if you need to?
metalman. i had the same thing happen to me on the 57 when i had a youngster mistake, in not knowing how to double flare brake lines, but ya it lifted it like nothing at all. also had it turn flat on the framerails. and as far as the new parts go, i put sections in the floor, repops, and have no carpet in it, well put a piece of tape over a hole for one of the floor mount holes that needed replaced, peeled taht tape up and the paint came with i have however taken a well sanded piece of fresh steel and coated it w rustoleum and its been outside for 2 yrs in the sun snow etc etc and i think im more sold on that
If you put por 15 on good clean steel then it won't take. It works brilliantly on ruisty steel as it reacts with the rust to form a bond. For what it's worth, most problems occur because instructions are NOT read and followed.
And they do emphasize reading the instructions thoroughly. Do any of you guys know here I can find some in Tulsa, Ok ?
Hey guys, I just picked some up today to do a bumper for my 64 C10. I am wondering, I wire wheeled the bumper with a wire wheel on a 4 1/2" angle grinder. Some parts are still a little rusty, the surface is pretty clean and smooth. I've read the instructions thoroughly, and am prepared to paint this thing tomorrow. Do you think that the wire wheel made the steel TOO smooth, or is there still enough for it to bite against. On the exterior surface I took almost all the rusty scale off. It's pretty much down to clean steel. I used the recommended steps tonight to prepare it. I degreased using Marine Clean, and then etched using Prep and Ready. Think I should hit it with 200 grit or so, or is "wire wheel smooth" rough enough?
Well, just installed my freshly POR'd bumper, and I gotta say, I'm not impressed. I did a 64 C10 wrap-around bumper in the silver. I followed the instructions to the letter, got everything good, and rough, used the "Marine Clean" to degrease then the "Prep and Ready" to etch, dried everything, and let it dry overnight in a 70+* shop. Then I painted and allowed about 24 dry time... again in a warm shop. I literally slid a tailgate about 2 inches across the dried surface, and scratched the shit out of the bumper. Lame. I could've done a half ass rattle can job if I'd wanted those results. I used this crap because of all the talk of how chip resistant it is... not this batch I guess. The only real benefit I see is that I didn't have to rattlecan inside the shop with the other cars sitting around. I have another can of black that I'll be using on the bed cross rails under the wood. If this batch doesn't turn out diamond hard it'll be likely this would be my last time using it.
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