November 2009 Banger Thread

Searched for the start of the November Banger thread and came up dry so I'll start it this month. Last month thread was great and I hope it carries over into November.
I've been away from 'the shop' for the last six months and miss my Ford T and A's. This is one of the threads that keeps me connected.
Going to miss going to the FAST hill climb at Picacho Peak, AZ. Generally great weather, great location in the Sonoran Desert and a great turn out of bangers running the hill.

 

Brought mine home from the farm yesterday. Made it halfway before the crank nut backed off and the alternator and fan stopped working. Made it home without overheating or running out of battery. Today, I'll fix it right.

Anybody use loctite on their crank nut?

 

Not yet but if I did I would use the weakest loctite possible and not over torque. Hopefully you did not drive to far and the temperature was low so no damage resulted.-Weeks

 

Crank nut?

 

I use loctite blue on all crank shaft nuts. Had one back out in my 350 SBC in my Suburban while I was towing my 39 Coupe home. What a mess it made.

 

Crank nut = my term for the bolt that holds the crank pulley on. I forgot it was a bolt...

Anyway, I spent the big bucks and bought a 1-3/8" socket and 10" extension. Tightened it up pretty good. Then discovered that my starter was binding up the works, took it out, pop started the car by myself and drove it around the block. Later, I put the starter back in and its like it never had a problem. Only took about 2 hours to get back to square 1.

Now I need a windshield - who's got the best deal on a full deluxe roadster setup?

 

I got my new head on but the head gasket didn't seal. Sounds good but the header drips water

 

just wondering if there are any major issues I should look out for when buying a banger.

I have been told of 3 "B" motors that have come up for sale, and I'm itching to get my hands on at least one of them.

 

Buy, buy, buy.

BTW The ones on Aus. were made in the U.K.

 

Just watch out some of those english ones have a small bore crank is the same though

 

I don't know that we got the English 'tax' jobs here, pretty sure they were normal capacity, just made at the Dagenham plant.

But then, anything is possible.

 

Any of you aussie guys know where theres a RHD '28/29 Bellhousing? I need just the bellhousing where the pedals come out of, I can fabricate my own pedal mount but using the original seems easier, plus my '29 Banger motor is from a US pickup, so the clutch shaft thingy is on the left side.

 

The Model A club meets in Carindale. You may need to be friends. It's character building.

And yes, there is a RHD one.

 

I would consider swapping a RHD for your LHD
I'm in Brisbane, Email me.
Cheers, 88daryl88

 

OOOOOOH! November banger porn... and it's only the second day of the month!

 

Look at the crankshaft through the oil filler tube hole and see if the engine has the counterbalanced crankshaft. The "B" has a tendency to crack between the valve seat and the cylinder, check it out if the head is off. Most are repairable.

 

That Frontenac is too cool, just had to wipe the drool off the keyboard! A guy I work with asked me if I wanted a Model A short his dad had built. Free for the taking. He thinks it still runs. I will be going after it! Will post a pic or two when I pic it up.

 

Hello Gents, and Ladies
I've been waiting for the right time to ask about a few things I found.
Take a look at the pics and let me know your secrects.
Or, atleast if I should drag this stuff home.

Pic 1 Block says INTERNATIONAL
Pic 2,3,4 No clue where to start on this one?
Pic 5,6,7 reminds me of a Ford but not quite?
Pic 8 Willys 134 Go Devil
Pic 9,10 Model A Banger
Pic 11 I think the tires said Airport or Air service ???? They bolt together around the middle and they are 15" with a 5 on 5.5 bp.
Pic 12 What year? Is it a T sedan? Could only find the two front doors.
Pic 13 30-31 AA has a four speed and a cracked head. Worth the time to pull the 4 speed? How are they in cars?

If you can add anything else please do.

Jeff

More on this lot in the woods here:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=413174&highlight=1960

 

Two questions for the banger brethren this month:

1) How would one go about mating a Model A transmission to Model T rear end? This would be for purposes of using a Ruckstell in a Model T gow. I realize that you would lose the Model T service brakes, but numerous schemes exist to utilize the rear drums as service brakes, and in this instance there would be front brakes in play as well.

2) On a Model A engine, what are the disadvantages to using high-compression aluminum pistons with a stock head? Obviously, you don’t get to run a cool-looking accessory head, but is the breathing of the stock head significantly worse than an aftermarket flathead?

Thanks,

Dave
*

 

Ok I know there has already been alot of questions asked, but I thought I would throw mine into the mix as well. I am in the process of building a full race motor (29 A block) for my bonneville lakester. I am having trouble finding a good head to use. I really wanted to run the Winfield repop 8.5:1 head but I cant find one anywhere! (Any one know where one might be?) Does any one know of any other high compression heads? I have looked at the Lion speed head and the Thomas Head but neither has a high enough compression ratio. If it comes down to it I can always deck a head to get the CR I want, but I am trying to avoid that. Again this is a full race motor, it will never be driven on the street (expect for some late night test and tune runs! Haha) Any one building an experimental head out there?

Any info would be great!
Mike

 

Hey RHD Guys,

I have a 29 RHD chassis that I am converting to LHD. Other than the Bellhousing and Steering box/column are there any other unique items I will need to swap.

I already have a LHD bellhousing and Steering Column. How about steering arms and the service brake crossshaft? Can i just flip them around.

Thanks
TBone

 

I have a Winfield crowsfoot that has been milled approx .200 that I have run in the past. I am not afraid! Just bolt the sucker on and through yer head back and drive!
Pirano's in TX says they got up to 115 horses with a modified Lion head. I don't think you are going to find a head " out of the box" to do what you want. My Winfield "A" engine has about 8.5 to 1 but that is with a stroked crank. Probably on a "short fuse!"anyway.

 

I guess I know I wont find an "Out of box" head, but what about a good base head to start with? I am also running a stroked crank. Its a B series counterweigh crank stroked about .100". Running .040 over chevy 283 pistons. The pin hight wasnt correct so I corrected it by offset grinding the throws on the crank. Any more info on good heads woudl be great!

Thanks,
Mike

 

Dear BigCheese- may I call you "Big"?
1. You need a Model A and a Model T universal joint. Get the rivited together ones. Use the front half of the A (round splines) and the back half of the T (square hole) some grade 8 bolts and you're down the road, just like our grandfathers did 50 years ago.
2. The A combustion chamber is very poor design. The pop up pistons are heavy.

 

Hey! I just mounted up a Ford tractor muffler to the banger! Sounds much better. Tomorrow it will get a tailpipe with a downturn.

The muffler came from tractor supply for $32. Its a basic can shaped glasspack style. The store I went to had a great selection.

 

You can call me anything you like, just don't call me late for dinner!

Thanks for the reply, that's just what I was looking to hear.

-Dave

 

Well my speedster is on hold- my modern Focus Banger mucked up costing my $700 to repair- boo modern Fords. Need to be reliable like the old school bangers.

 

Hey Mike
Where are you getting your engine work done?
I think we need pics

 

Did the same with an O/T V-8 truck, Good H-D stuff.
I even got the no tax discount bucause its for farm use. They thought
I think mine were 25.00 a pop, but that was 10 years ago.

Jeff