'32-'34 Spindles on dropped original axle?

Hopefully someone like 296 V8 can answer this one: will unmodified '32-'34 Ford spindles work on a dropped original Ford axle? The reason I ask is that I had one and the steering arms didn't clear the dropped ends. Now, this axle wasn't 'stretched' like the one in 296 V8's avatar, it was more 'bent' into an S-shape to get the drop, so maybe not the best one to try it on.

Things are a bit tight under the chassis at the front of a '34 anyway, but I want to run the original spindles and arms, and don't want to have to start bending parts around to clear the axle, bones, or chassis if I can help it.

 

You'll know when you slip them on the axle, drop in the kingpin, and make a turn with the spindle, left or right will tell the tale.

There are so many variables in the dropped axles you see at swap meets and for sale anywhere.

 

I've never seen any spindle arms clear a dropped axle. It's just part of the deal.

 

That was my concern. The early spindles are probably more of a problem because of the bearing on top of the axle, instead of spacing it down under the axle like '37-'41 spindles.

I know the arms may have to be tweaked at the ends so the tie bar misses the wishbone, but on the one I had before, the bend right where the arm comes off the spindle fouled the axle.

 

On mine, they wouldn't even fit in straight-ahead mode, let alone turn left or right!

 

BTTT Anyone else have the answer?

 

I am gonna do this, I have heard that you have to have the streched dropped axle without modifyimg the arms

 

Maybe a picture or 3 ? Remember 1000 words and all?

 

(I haven’t done this but two or three times, so I am no expert.)

I always start by heating and twisting the arm right at its base first. To get it going more down hill, therefore gaining more clearance.
(Please pardon the lame photoshop)
Heat were its orange preferably hotter on the bottom side (inside radius) so that it will tend to crush and minimize stretch on the top (egging the hole)
Obviously you twist the end back after making the other bends.

The early spindles
I like them for there built in draglink arm and there longer than 37 up steering arms. But not having the bearing under just puts the base of the arms that much closer to the problem area.

I think ELpolacko knows more about this than most guys.

Like Rich said, it’s part of the deal.

 

Thanks, I like the early spindles too - and they're already there! I guess it's my call - if I want the dropped axle I'm going to have to start bending some arms.

 

Quick question..on 32-34 spindles can you convert them to have the bearing under the axle like later spindles,instead of on top? havent got a pair here to check, but would like to use them on my next build.

 

Why the desire for keeping the 32-34 spindles? Aren't they kinda hard to put hydraulic brakes on???

 

Unfortunately, no, not as far as as I know. Because the original bearing sat under the brake pivot head of the kingpin, the gap between the two bosses on the spindle matches the height of the axle boss (plus a few thou clearance). I was planning on cutting the top pivot cup off some original kingpins (to clear the hydraulic brake backing plate), and maybe cleaning them up/reinforcing them with a bolt down through the hollow middle.

I believe there are custom kingpins available to save cutting original style ones, and these may be (based on) English Ford Pilot kingpins, which used a similar configuration. I have seen Ford Pilot ones advertised, but they were in the $200 a set range, I think, and I don't know if the dimensions are exactly the same. Whatever is used, they must have the correct groove for the cotter pin as this sets the height of the kingpin head, which in turn supports the axle (and car). If this is not done correctly, I think the axle rests on the bottom spindle boss, with metal-metal contact.

Notwithstanding the agro involved as mentioned above, they are the only ones that have an integral steering arm for a side-steer drag link, and the end is set forward of the axle centre line about 3/4" to give correct steering geometry. Fitting hydraulic brakes only requires a (Model A?) piston ring to centre the backing plate and a valve seat for a spacer for the hub, plus elongating the four mounting holes in the backplate a tad to suit the spindle's smaller pattern. It may even be more traditional than '37-'41 spindles with a bolt-on arm

 

Here's a post on 32-34 spindles.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=215720&highlight=32+34+spindles+nealinca

I had to heat and bend the arms as described above.

Neal

 

Model A 32 to 36 spindles are harder to put juice brakes on as the pcd is smaller and they run 5/16 backing plate bolts not the later 3/8 size. So you need to cut right through the centre side of the 3/8 mounting hole to slot it and weld a support ring in the cetre of the backing plate to match the early stub axel flange diameter to locate and support the backing plate, not impossible just takes more time to do it right.

 

Or make the spindle bigger to match the backing plate like I showed in the post linked above...

Neal

 

Thanks Neal, that's a great link. Do you have details of the Torrington bearing you used? And did you machine the axle end or the spindle boss(es) for clearance?

 

This post has the Torrington info...

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=237496&highlight=torrington

I did have to grind a few thousanths off of the axle to make it work.

Hopefully that helps.

Neal

 

Perfect, thanks.

 

Okay guys I did it tonight and it worked great

 

Thanks, it's definitely a tight fit around there!

 

1/8th to 1/4 clearance, gotta leave enough room for the chrome to not rub