Gaskets... how do you get them to stay in place?

I'm ready to put the oil pan back on my 350 Olds. Is there anything I can spray on the gasket to get it to "stick" in the right place so it doesn't move around during installation? I looked in the auto parts store and the help wasn't any help if you know what I mean...

 

I like to brush on a thin application of Permatex's "Aviation Form-A-Gasket." It won't slip out and fuck up your engine like silicone will...

 

3M spray adhesive. Better have em in place when you stick em down !!!>>>>.

 

Hey bro, like tinman said, I use the same brush on stuff and get it held in place in a few places you will like it. Shawn

 

Get some thread and tie every other hole through the pan & gasket

 

I use Pernatex but I think 3M does make a spray adhesive for gaskets.

 

Ok, so where do you buy this shit?

 

Agree with the Masses.... I use a Brush on Gasket Cement, on both sides of the Gasket.

 

I'ts a shelf item at all Spare Parts places here in Oz, I'd imagine it would be the same over there.

 

i like permatex brush on" high tack"...works well..................dave

 

I like to glue gaskets to one side and let them set up. Chose your poison (or adheasive).
If it's tin, like an oil pan or a valve cover, use a bunch of clothespins to hold it in place while it sets up.

 

i use the high tack spray. and usally replace the 4 corner bolts with studs, so its easy to line it all up.

 

Copper Coat is the shit for this kind of stuff. Comes in a spray can at most parts stores. Kind of a contact cement/sealant. Use it all the time on the late model stuff at work. Clean and dry both parts and coat the sealing surfaces and both sides of the gasket. let it dry and stick the parts together. Just make sure you got it lined up right the first time.

 

I'm 60 and remember my dad using thred from moms sewing kit. just tie the gasket to the pan. I'v did it myself lots of times.
works like a champ.
Russ

 

I do not know what the technical term for them is, but it is a plastic bolt like contraption that I got from fel-pro a while ago. You thread them into the holes in 4 places, snap the gasket over it, and then the pan over that. It holds every thing in place while you install the bolts.

 

the dealies in the upper corner of this photos...
http://www.napagaskets.com/uploads/files/POP_UPs/pdp_pop_oil.jpg


called snapups

 

I glue them to the oil pan side (and valve cover side), let it dry. Then use "HYLOMAR - HPF " (Permatex) on the engine side.

Quote from their package:
"As a dressing it holds gaskets in place and allows for repositioning during assembly. Ensures easy disassembly even after long-term applications."

I've used it many times and it works well, and the gasket stays with the pan &/or cover.

As was stated above, replacing some bolts with studs makes it much easier to replace.

 

I always used to use yellow 3m sticks great. Most of what I have worked on are SBC so I always glued the pan gasket to the block and added some silicone at the 4 corners of the end seals.

 

I got hooked on 3M spray trim adhesive a long time ago. Spray some on the gasket and let it tack up just a bit, drop the gasket on the offending part and reassemble. It's good stuff but be sure to clear out the nozzle after each use our a lot will go to waste. Later, Roger

 

I use 3M trim adhesive works greate.

 

I tried Permatex spray and it sucked. I got a recommendation for Indian Head brush on gasket adhesive from my pal BloodyKnuckles and it worked like a charm. I'd use it again in a heartbeat. It's on the shelf at Advance Auto Parts and is around $4. I'm sure the other big chains have it too.

 

once you bury them you shouldnt have a problem.last i knew it was 6' they had to be in the ground

 

Don't anybody use "yellow death" anymore?

 

All of the above mentioned will work...but I gotta say....if you plan on disassembling the parts any time in the future, don't use that Indian Head shellac. Seals GREAT, but doesn't come off easily!

 

I have had good luck with cork and rubber gaskets on valve covers and oil pans by using 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive on one side (I prefer pan or cover), then, once it's set up, I just grease the cork and bolt it down. Never any leaks.

 

One more vote for the good old tie them on with thread trick. Holds them in place while installing and no "Goop" problems when changing the next time.

 

Nobody uses Indian Head Gasket Shellac anymore?

 

I use it...similar as permatex aviation type.
essentially known as coal tar. black, gooie, smells like dessenex shampoo.
the indianhead i think used to dry out but when I use the permatex it doesn't get HARD hard, it just firms up a bit. What I like about it is it is oil resistant. Alcohol will get it off your fingers.
I use it on oilpan, timing cover,water pumps, exhaust manifolds and intake seals for ZERO leaks NO weeping either. I use it as anti sieze and thread sealant.
I coat both metal surfaces and both sides of the gasket. I let it tack up and assemble.
Valve covers are tricky. especially if they need to be removable.
On tin valve covers I glue the gaskets to the tin with the coal tar.
I used to use just wheel bearing grease on the head side of the gasket to seal it but with cork it will weep. very little but enough to look leaky. I switched to putting a light film of silicon just enough to wet the cork if using a cork gasket.
I still use grease if using a rubber gasket (grease on the head coal tar on the tin). it seals just the same as your oil filter gasket.
using silicon on the front and rear intake rail gaskets has always left me with leaks. My brother swears by it and he has good luck but he replaces the intake rail gasket with silicon he does not use it with the intake rail gasket.
He says the OEM grey silicon out performs the cheaper stuff

 

Gorilla snot!

We called it that because it was an ugly yellow when it first came out. As you can see, it now comes in black which I highly recommend.

Run a small bead around the gasket surface and apply the gasket while it is still liquid. Slide the gasket around to coat the gasket evenly. For pans and valve covers, I install all the bolts in the holes while it dries so that you know that they will line up after the bolts are removed and the cement is dry.

Sprays are fine for head gaskets but too messy for me on a small job like this. This is a contact cement also so you can apply it to both surfaces, let it dry and then apply the gasket but you better be accurate when you put the gasket on because it wont move around after it makes "contact".

I always clean and glue the gasket to the loose part first and then clean the engine surface while the glue sets up. By the time you get it ready the glue has set and you don't have to twiddle your thumbs waiting for it to set.

And if you are restoring a car it comes in handy for it's intended purpose of gluing rubber weather strip around doors and trunks.

Like Ernie, I too prefer cork gaskets. I glue the gasket to the loose part and then wipe a coating of Vaseline to the other side. The Vaseline prevents the cork from welding itself to the engine surface and allows many "off and ons" before a new gasket is required.

 

Nobody reads anymore?