My father is finally going to get going on his 53 F-100 after it has sat for 15+ years.We are just getting some idea's as far as suspension goes. He wants to keep the straight front axle and go low with it and still be practical for a weekend cruiser. No IFS for him he says.This is what we are thinking Front: 3"-4" drop front axle 2" drop Posies springs power steering disc brakes Rear: 9" rearend on top of Posies springs
May be looking at a C-notch for the rear, which really ain't a big deal, but make sure it's done right. The Posies are what I plan to use on my F1, better than monos, IMO. The Toyota PS box is a popular swap, but with all the drop involved, a custom pitman arm will be needed. My $.02...good luck!
I was planning on a c-notch in the rear also.The power steering has got me thinking still? Any other than the Toyota deal?
I put some "down and forward" leafs on the front of my 56, along with a 3" drop axle. The leaf moves the axle 1.25" forward and centers the wheel in the wheelwell. With the leafs and the axle it's about a 6" drop up front. the down and forward leafs also require extending the drag link, and you'll need to drop the tie rod too... Out back I flipped the axle on top of the leafs. You'll want to c notch the frame as havi said.
Most parts can be ordered from Mid Fifty. I'm running down and forward with revesed eyes in front. Extended wye hangers in rear with reversed eyes. You can get an extra 2 in. rear by raising the front rear spring hanger. Using saginaw with cross steer in front. For sway bars, go to salvage yard, get front and rear bars off a mid 80's Bronco 2. Will be 1'' bar in front and 3/4'' in rear. Be sure and get all brackets and rods. This is a very easy install. You only have to make front mount brackets.
I will add 1 more thing. If there is budget concerns you can use a 57 or newer axle and get approx. 1 1/2'' in front. Make sure and use the backing plates also.
I'm finally getting back to work on this truck. Spare $$$ has been tight. This is what I'm thinking unless you guys have any other ideas. Front: "down and forward" front leafs and 2" drop axle,Toyota power steering,disc brake conversion(5on 5.5"),with 8" power booster,new shackles,shocks Rear: Posies springs,raise the front hanger,new shocks I want to run 15" steel wheels but I'm unsure on tire sizes. Maybe a 215/75-15 front and 225 or 235/75-15 rear?
Raising the front hanger only will tilt the pinion angle. You can correct this by adding axle shims or by raising the rear hangers or by using lowering shackles which claim 2" but only drop about 1.5". Before you start raising the hangers, install the aftermarket springs first, and see how it sits. With the axle on top of the lowered springs, it might be low enough for your tastes without raising the hangers. Regardless, the frame will have to be notched and you'll need to open up a spot on the bed floor for the differential housing to clear. Also you'll need to address the shock mount locations/angle if using the stock upper shock mount bar. Also be sure to inspect & clean, or replace the spring pins as they are subject to becoming egg shaped if the bushings are bad or the grease holes are clogged up. It makes a big difference in ride quality. I run 225/70/15's all the way around on my '56. They look good for a radial size. I had 225's in the rear and 215's up front and the fronts looked a bit small for the wheel opening. Now that they are all the same size it looks much better.
Here are a couple of pictures of mine with a 3" dropped axle and reversed eye springs in front - reversed eye monos in the back. First is 235/75 rear, 205/75 front on stock 15" steelies; second is 235/75 and 215/70/15s and third is 670- and 820-15 WWW. Enjoy the project!
I really like the second setup! Looks great! How does it ride? Did you do power steering? Thanks for the info
You can only get 1" more drop when you use the 57 Ford axle with no dip in the center. Not all 57's have the axle with no dip. www.droppedaxles.com
I installed a set of Posie's front springs on my truck expecting a better ride. The truck still rebounded as harshly as before. I then went with mono leaf springs. Since there is no friction with a single leaf spring- heavy duty shocks are required. I installed a front anti-sway bar off of a Ford police car because with radial tires it felt squirrely. Now it handles & drives nice. My original steering box was rebuilt with new gears, sector bushings and bearings.
I need ti buy wheels and tires asap so I can get it rolling and thought I'd just buy what i want now.I'm thinking chrome reverse wheels 15x7" front and 15x7" or 8" rears with 215 or 225/70 fronts and 235/75 rears. Good combo? What BS of wheels?
I decided on 215/75-15 fronts and 235/75-15 whitewall radials on stock 15x7 steel wheels. As for the front I'm going with "down and forward" springs,3" drop axle,extended drag link,tie rod spacers and Toyota power steering. Rear will be flipped along with a c-notch
So are you running the stock front axle with the down & forward springs? Any pictures? How about a measurement from the bottom of the running board to the ground at the cowl or where it meets the front fender? Thanks Larry T
Beware of cross steer conversion on F100s, F-1s, and earlier trucks with drag link steering. The hardness of the frame rails takes an inherant 'set', and when the applied torque is applied to the left frame rail (instead of the 'familiar' longitudinal torsion/compression) the frame will crack, just outside any boxing and bracketing. Toyota power box is a suitable replacement, as it is of the Drag link type. (there is a Mid-'50s bracket available to bolt it into the stock frame holes) This is a practical modification, as a Four Wheel Drive shop has used ones in stock: 'Take-Offs', for when the Toyota was Off-Road modified with the retro Rack-and-pinion for extreme use. Call around: My son found two at one shop, $40 each.
I talked to Nostalgia drop axles(www.droppedaxles.com) today and he was VERY helpfull. I fiqured out what I want to do. Front: 3" drop axle,Posie springs,tie rod drops Rear: Posies springs,2 1/4" lowering shackles,move front hanger up, I'm NOT flipping the axle
Any of you guys running a 8" power brake booster with a dual res master cylinder in the stock location under the floor?
Here is my 56 after installing Posies two spring front springs. Dropped it about 3 inches which is all I wanted since it is an everyday hauler. Havent got to the rear yet but will soon...
I was talking to a local guy who has built a bunch of F100's with both straight axle and IFS. He thinks I should go with a No Limit IFS. They are $2450 complete with power rack,12" rotors with 5on5.5 pattern,and sway bar. Its $2200 for a drop axle,springs,disc brake kit,and Toyota power steering for the stock suspension. I'm on the fence?????
I think you will be happier with IFS just my humble opinion. I caught your thread late. My 55 is running 215/65s up front and 235/70 out back. I have Gennie wheels with a 3.5 BS on the rear and 4.0 BS on the front
I agree with Donald. For the money go with IFS if installation labor is not a problem. I am very happy with the Volare under mine. I don't dissagree that a beam axle can be made to ride and handle satisfactory and if my skills/money was limited to that, then I would do it. If all is equal, IFS is the way, IMHO. Mine is comfortable and drives well around town and at 80.
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