Wake up ! It's time, Sept 2009 Banger meet

Will- like that setup- may steal it from ya.

And Jim- it is a Yapp head- I got this car because the other guy had no time to build it so all the literature and such was kinda thrown in- I'll try and dig it up-

but right now I have a stock head and just need the wires.

 

Here's a little eye candy....OHV Model T
With speedster body

 

That is just beautiful!!!!!
WOW...............!

 

I'm adding a "crossbar" to my homemade headlamp brackets. I took some 1/2" stock and whacked one end against the garage floor several times to get the desired bend. Now I just have to weld it in place and repaint. What do you guys think??

 

I have a Halibrand 101 quickchange for the Model A....I tried the main board and did not find what I need. I'm wanting to freshen up the quickchange...I have read lots on setting up the rear...I hope to find out how to remove the bearings from the rear cover and center housing...I know heat has to be applied ...how much? or any info is appreciated....Bill

 

Jim- I like it but don't think ya need it. Paint it black and it will be nice little tough though.

 

daddyo

i am trying to get rid of the predetination vibration. it seems that when i retard it out so the motor runs smooth, it also runs pretty crappy. lots of off throttle pops out of the exhaust, flat spots under acceleration, and just a general lack of power...it feels like it's being held back.

update...in adjusting the advance mech inside the dizzy i took all the advance out. guess what i got when i grabbed the bug and moved it....a tone of slop...about the width of the bug....just guessing but I would say about 10-15 degrees at least...maybe more. this may be the cause of the hesitations. i didn't have time to fix before i got on the train so i'll investigate that when i get home. i know the shaft is tight in the dizzy so it's got to be below that.

the distributor is a cast iron mallory ya 11a. but the internals may be different. it is mechanical advance but it does have an adjustment in it that says Vac Adv. I have it set where it's not a factor (solid) but it says to me the advance mech inside could be used with a vac advance somehow. i think the lower plate number is 45321... maybe. single point setup.

any other thoughts?

thanks for the info on yours....it's a big help.

 

anyone else have similar problems?

 

if anything it's on the rich side. dark side of milk chocolate.

 

It sounds like you have a questionable distributor. I would switch out the distributor your running and put in a KNOWN good Distributor. Do you have a good spare? If not, do you have a friend or neighbor or club member that has a good one you can borrow? Best case would be to find one that is on a running engine that is not doing what yours is doing. Replace yours with that one and take your car for a spin. If the problem disappears , problem found rebuild the advance portion of your distributor. If not, move on to the next possible cause.

You are running a Lion's Head with @ 6 or 7 :1 comp. ratio, right? What carb are you running?

Are you running a fiber cam gear?

Are your plugs too long? (threads sticking into combustion chamber?)

.

 

Little update on the Dodge banger. New main caps getting line honed and rocker assembly comming togeather on head.

 

daddyo,

now running a super winfield 8:1 maybe a little less with .092 black best gasket. it fits the chamber shape for my head and it's a "b" gasket.

plugs do not stick out into chamber....right at the bottom.

carbs are stromberg 81's

i don't have anyone within 100 miles that give a poop about hopped up four bangers that would have another dizzy. I do have an original b that is known to be good but i don't have the plug wires i need to go from that cap to my plugs....new plugs don't have the screw off tip on them.

aluminum cam gear

 

i don't think the slop is in the dizzy. i think it's a combination of the cam gear/drive gear (not the front cam gear...the the spiral gear in the middle) and the shaft to the drive gear assembly. i will be back home tonight so maybe i can work on it tomorrow and report back in a couple days when i get back to memphis, tn at the motel.

 

I dare not ask this question on MTFCA because the “originalists” will get me: When building a period hopped up T engine, what’s preferable - distributor or original magneto? I think the “Fast Fords” handbook usually assumes use of the original timer and magneto, but distributors (through the Atwater Kent radio company, I think) were a period accessory.

Is there anything that can or should be done to improve the original Ford ignition system for use with speed parts? There’s a big part of me that feels like a T ought to have a magneto.

-Dave

 

dave i use a bosch front angle drive plate and gears but have adapted a electronic distributor off a modern car just about any four cylinder jappa will do think mine is a early nissan i run a alternator instead of the gennie[1927 roadster] and run 12 volts really reliable easy starting good lights absolutely no electrical probs have used it daily for 6 years i think snyders still sell repro bosch angle drives

 

Yes Jim, will be painting it black after I weld it into place. I want to stabilize my headlights, they shake about a bit!

 

Oh thank you very much. Glad you like it.
The intake manifold is an old single carb Winfield manifold I got from a long-time close friend of mine.

I've got a dual downdraft manifold for two Winfields I'm working on,.. well, modifyling as it was originally produced to take dual downdraft carbs like Hollys or strombergs.... though the company made one for Winfields,... so after a LONG quest trying to either find one for sale OR find a person who'd be kind enough and willing to take their manifold to a casting foundry and get a one off, etc. I just got this one and am making pieces to reproduce the correct mounting plates, etc. That should be done in a few months,... not much time right now.


www.hotironclub.com

 

Hey now,... you're makin me blush!... ha.

Thanks bud!

This is how far the re-creation of the Cullen roadster has come thus far for me.
I chose the color based on our original club member's suggestion that he would have painted his roadster a red color or some kind. So, its a close version of a 1942 Ford color known as "Mouselle Red" (not sure on spelling there??) The re-creation was supposed to be just bare metal but after months of research and agonizing over it, I just called Carl (our 92 yr old member of The Hot Irons) and he said, "oh hell, paint it, you're in rust country!" So the ONLY way I'd do that was to choose a color he would have used IF he had the cash back then to get some paint and give her a coat or two.

Yeah still got things to work out, stupid little stuff,... bolts, door latches, etc. One or two things I still have yet to obtain or reproduce for it to get it to where its a 99% re-creation of the original car Carl drove.
There's just not enough time to get to it right now for me. SOON!,... very soon....

Again,... thanks for the kind words.

www.hotironclub.com

 

OHH! A DODGE!!!

There was an early Dodge back in Johnny Gerber's heydays of racing that could really hold its own against the OHV Fords and so on!....
what year is yours??

Very cool,.... I had toyed with the idea of tracking one down and getting it running, then seeing what it would do!!


[COLOR="DarkRed"]www.hotironclub.com[/COLOR]

 

Mine is a '26 with the side distributer. There is a '28 roadster with a Fast Four flathead that went 119 or so at Bonneville this year.

 

Dave,

There shouldn't be ANY issue of you using either a mag or a distributer- Bosch, Eisemann, Atwater Kent, etc. If they start whining, whip out one of Murray Fahnstock's books.

 

Speedway used to sell a Halibrand book for the V8 but it just covered proper assembly which applied in some respects to the "A" but I don't think it would cover your problems as it didn't cover disassembly. There were 2 different "A" Halibrands. The one for midgets uses 1" gears and the sprint car uses 1 3/8" gears. The KIWI was copied from a midget with a sliding gear settup. That is what the "box" on the right rear side is for. I purchased mine in a basket. It had been welded and had some serious " lumps" on it. When I picked it up it was at a "tool and die" shop where they had remachined the castings and bushed the gearing bore's in the case with steel sleeves. The pinion had been converted to use ball bearings. The Speedway book implied that some V8 units came with ball bearings on the pinion. The bearings in the cover were not a very tight fit, a little heat and and tapping face down and they came out. be careful not to damage the outer edge as that is the sealing surface. The end of the pinion shaft had been hand ground to compensate for shaft misalignment caused by the welding. But the new bearing bores had some misalignment so I moved the bearings in the cover to compensate.. As I remember, There was a lock ring on the lower shaft that must be removed before tapping out the shaft then I drove the bearings out of the heated case. I heated the case with a propane torch. BUT, if your bearings, after thoroughly cleaning turn smoothly with out and rough spots I would leave them in. In the book from Speedway they said to not use gaskets but to seal with a gasket sealer. You adjust the carrier with shims behind the bearings. I had to make spacers for mine and then I found a supplier for the shims. The supplier made up a rebuild gasket/shim kit for "A" rear ends I use a "tattle tale" inch torque wrench to set the preload.

 

Built myself an air breather last night out a 62-64ish briggs & stratton farm engine breather. the breather originally would have been standing straight up but i have turned it on its side. i can still fit a side panel if i ever decide to run them.

Cut 3" out of the tube and welded it back up


extended the carb end so a coupler could be clamped on


cut two openings in the lid, then i tacked a nice woven stainless mesh behind them


Some rad hose and clamps, very solid!



I like the fact there is a little velocity stack


Test fit



Painted, but still need to find foam element for the inside and make a stainless bottom to seal the lid.

I like it!




a new fuel line is in the works btw..

 

looks cool but I would keep the foam out when I had my stock carb on I could not beleave all the gas that spit back I would hate to see your car with real flames
Bill

 

well i was think of having a drain hole well before the foam, but we'll see, id rather have a paper element but i think im going to have trouble finding one.

ive had a foam fire before with one of those edelbrock triangular mesh filters, it was not fun at all. it was a huge back fire that caused it.

 

Ya know, stock model As never even had an aircleaner. I have been told when you put a maze or any type of restrictive filter on the carb it causes worse gas mileage? The stock carb also has to be modified in order to run efficiently/properly also. Just what I have been told. Anybody else have fact or fiction. I see modified for air maze stock A carbs on the bay all the time. I would be leery also of foam as the A carbs always seem to leave there mark after you shut the engine down.

I really like the whole set up and I would run without an element personally just the stainless you put in their already. Thats a real nice piece you put together and looks in place and spot on. Can you still get the hood on/closed? Hey also whats that filter cover from?-Weeks

 

well see how it runs i guess, i just dont like the idea of driving it home along a field with a crosswind of field dust from a combine. the cover is from a briggs.

 

I hear ya on the dirt deal. I have a box full of stock carbs but will probably never use them myself. I just had to have a downdraft with my engine and a real 97 on it also. I plan on running a scoop with a small stainless insert inside it, even pointed forward. I patiently wait to see vid or hear ya enjoying your truck. I have learned a bit from your build and questions also. Thanks and props on the work you have done so far.-Weeks

 

A-Wall......I like it! Nice job!!