I went to take the coupe out the other day and noticed that the clutch pedal felt spongy. I checked the clutch master cylider and it was empty. I then found a puddle of brake fluid under the bellhousing. Seems that the Howe hydraulic throw out bearing decided to start leaking fluid past the o-rings and fill up the bellhousing. It's only got about 3K miles on it and I'm sure that I installed it properly. WTF? Anyone had good luck with these things?
I've got almost 2 years on one and NO problems. Are you sure it is leaking past the seals and not the threaded fittings, just a thought? When I first set mine up it dribbled very little and that was my cause.
These bearings are designed for multi-disk clutches that take alot less travel to release. If it's mounted too far away from the fingers on the pressure plate it will over extend and blow the seal out of the t.o. bearing. I had this same problem a few years ago. When the clutch disk is brand new it will work fine, but when it gets a little wear on it the bearing has to travel too far to release. Just my experience, may not be the problem... but it sounds the same. Kevin Ooltewah Speed Shop
Most of the race type bearings require a pedal stop so the bearing doesn't over extend and reach the end of the stroke as mentioned in the post above !! I did run a Howe on one of my dirt cars for 4 years without a problem !!! >>>>.
Thanks for all the tips. I don't think that I am doing anything that is obviously wrong. I do have a stop on the clutch pedal. I'm running zero clearance between the bearing and the pressure plate fingers when the bearing is compressed. When you press down on the clutch, the bearing expands about .100 inches and that's when I can see fluid weeping from the expanded part of the unit. It's interesting that they sell rebuild kits for these things.
I always felt they were for the multi-disc and racing application. With my racer I did less clutching in two months than I did in one night with my tow truck. The racer was inspected several times during the season. That being said I feel the Howe is more for racing in circles than street, but I see no reason that it shouldn't work as long as too much isn't ask for it to do. Rebuild it and give her another try.
I had Howe's second generation design to begin with. I have had pedal stop since day one set to allow just enough travel to disengage clutch. Yes, its shimmed properly for nearly zero play and uses the guide pin. I don't power shift/speed shift so its not getting abused. The trans isn't very easy to get in/out, guess my engineering could have had more thought toward servicability. Bearing leaked in less than 1000 miles, bitched to Howe and they said must have been a nicked o-ring from assembly (them, not me). Got a free o-ring kit, $5 value. Then again, less than another 1000 miles and same effin' thing! Called Howe, different guy said "oh yeah, we had problems with that design we're on a third generation design now. Last time the guy should have given you the new bearing" New free bearing ($150 value) in for 1500 miles and now this one is leaking! No one can see any problems with the set up, you gotta admit its pretty hard to goof up. Yet I've been sidelined by this thing THREE TIMES. Having learned my lesson I will be putting in conventional bearing and arm with an external slave cylinder.
I used to think they were great but mine leaked at 3000 miles also.I think if you take it apart to rebuild it you will find that the oring seals have been rolling and twisting instead of sliding.That has been my experiance.If anyone knows how to stop that from happening please let me know.
I run an external Ansen slave cylinder and use silicone fluid . I have same cylinder since 1985 with no problems of leakage and it operates a heavy duty race 11" race clutch.
I had the same issue. If I was to do it again I would run the Mcleod. They seem to have better costumer service. Howe didnot seem to care.
HA HA HA ...dude i wished we lived closer... we would get in a shit load of trouble But all i have is your card....