I know..everybody has opinions on the type of paint to use but my questions are concerning acrylic enamel. (1) How long before you apply the clear? (2) Should I use a hardener in the color coat and the clear? (3) How long before the color sand and buff? (4) Can you color sand and buff the color coat only? (no clear) (5) How long to wait before sanding / buffing just the color coat? Thanks in advance for any guidance you can give me guys.
1.) depending on the humidity level and air temperatures; 24 hours. 2.) Yes. 3.) let it harden properly first for long term durability...I wait 2 weeks. 4.)sure. 5.)clear coat dries a bit faster,..but again humidity levels and temperature ranges affect this,..( I wait additional time) hardening is always best with time. be patient, use common sence, test an area like under the trunk lid first if your unsure.
Ummm, if you're using single stage acrylic enamel, you don't need to clear it, and shouldn't. Yes, use an overall hardener, and yes, you can cut and buff acrylic just fine. It's actually easier than urethane clear, 'cause it's softer. Carefull tho if it's metallic, 'cause if you cut to much (cutting a run or sag, and buffing that out) you'll still see it 'cause the metallic will be heavier there. Wait a couple of days. Honestly, urethanes are a little more forgiving, but enamel is cheap and you can get great results with some practice.
Why do you want to clear acrylic enamel? If you want clear consider base/clear, it is a better system than cleared enamel. If you spray a high metalic acrylic enamel do not color sand it unless it is cleared. You will mess up the metalics by sanding it to buff. Acrylic enamel without metalic cut and buffed gives a very deep look that quite nice. Always use harder that is recomended in your finishes. As a painter by trade I would steer away from acrylic enamel if you have to have a clear coat. Use a good Base/clear system. That just my opinion. Tim
Bad news about clear, and they do make enamel clear, is that the paint underneath has to be perfect. I agree that this step isnt needed. I used BASF Limco Synthetic Enamel on my 32 and its shines just nice. I followed the instructions, 8-4-1 on this brand, to the tee. Used their hardener (thats the 1) and it came out pretty nice. I used a spash of fish eye remover, and in my application the slowest reducer. I didnt do clear for two reasons, and the biggest of the two is I didnt want to push my luck getting it right twice.
You really don't need a clear Gloss hardener or wetlook Will do you fine.Good luck with the mixing instructions .
I used Acrylic enamel twice last year, one Black, one metallic, with good success without applying clear, or buffing. Actually never considered using clear. I mixed as per the instructions.
After reading your question.. I dont think you can Wet Sand Metallic Acrylic Enamels.. I think it streaks or drags the metallics.. as far as solids , Im sure you can but it all has to be sanded.. not just in spots.. the top coat always seems to be darker than under neath.. clearing Acrylics as stated above should be no less than 24 hours on Non Sanded Colors..
prostreets is the same advice i'd give for enamel, but id agree with chevrolet 150. why clear acrylic enamel, when 2 stage is quicker and easier, and will give you far less problems. clearing enamel can upset the metalic amongst other hassels, and the extra time. if ya wanna use clear, use base coat. if ya wanna go single stage , forget the clear, unless its to mix some in the last coat or two.....for depth and ease of buffing skull
That was helpful..Thanks to the rest of you guys for taking the time to give me your insight. No clear it is.
Saw this thread and thought I'd add something. I used to work for a PPG distributor when I was in college. I knew an old timer that used to use styrofoam cups for hardner in acrylic enamel...no BS. I've seen him do it. Paint got hard but he sprayed with the garage door open. His was an old collision guy and his finish looked like it was sprayed in a barn. He would brag about never using a respirator, even in the lacquer days. All this while smoking no filter camels. He died a few years ago from lung cancer. RIP Jerry... Andy L. Kaempfer St. Louis, MO
while styrofoam cups will melt in paint, i dont see it adding any advantage, lol. isocyanates make it get hard, maybe thgose are produced by the cups? skull
The correct way to answer the question would have been to go to the tech sheet and check. Something you should've done before asking the question. Its just as easy for you to check the sheet as it is for me to do it for you.
not to mention information gets lost in translation sometimes, and can be a costly mistake in the end. something as simple as a "mixed up" ratio with another product(pun intended) nothing is as forever cemeted as the tech sheets.
Well you certainly took enough time to point out I should have read the tech sheet didn't you? Personal experience was what I was looking for and again thanks to the guys who took the time to share it.
I'm guessing you still refuse to read the tech sheet, ya know the one with all the answers on it? So now that you have 8 different "personal experiences" about things that will greatly affect the outcome of your paint job, which one did you pick? Thats like having the answers to a test right in front of you, but cheating off the kid next to you hoping he studied the night before. Smooth move!
Before there was base clear I cleared a ton of ac enamel mostly high metalic colors , but alot of solid colours also . Always waited overnight to clear .The whole idea was to make the paint stand up under all conditions , Sun, Acid rain , winter .If you wanted it like glass , waited a month & sanded and polished . It worked great on older vehicles the paint companies didn't make base paint for , but the customer wanted a base clear type job and didn't want laquer
Seems the more I pimp you the more you type! The "smooth move" would have been to ignore the thread if you thought it wasn't worth your time....over.
My 30 plus years of personal experience has taught me to have the tech sheet on the mixing bench and read each one with every product I use. The info in this thread is pretty good, but that is not always the case here.
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