I am planning on lowering my stock 53 chev car over the weekend and was wondering how low can I go before having ride issues with the stock suspension. This is a car I will be driving a lot and I was planning on cutting the coils and using blocks in the rear. Anyone have any experiance doing this, advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
When you roll over something small or hit a small dip/pothole and you bottom out... 3" lowering blocks in the back Here's what you need for the front : http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=369294 -ns
I am pulling the entire rear suspension on a '54 this weekend that was not thought out. They seem to have removed a leaf and relocated the rear shackle mounts, then added a 3-4" lowering block. The result is springs in a bind and the axle bumping the frame occaisionally with heavy driveline vibration at various road speeds. We are going back with the CE kit that mounts a Camaro/Nova axle using all new mounting hardware and springs. I'll re-evaluate the blocks after that. In my opinion, you can only drop it 3-4" using a block. You should never remove a leaf due to lost spring rate. You should also be very careful with pinion angle when modifying one of these cars. The driveline looks very flat.
with out a C notch..and stock set up..probably pushing it at 4" than tunnel tap and scrub line issues will come into play
The rear hits the frame before anything else if you go too low. These cars really need a "C'd" frame in the rear to sit low and ride OK. It's not the suspension, really. IF you "C" it, you can run de-arched springs, and fine tune it with lowering blocks to get it 5-6 in. lower. Without the "C", as the others said, 2-3 in (with your already worn springs) is all you can get away with.
If you cut the front springs, 1 coil usualy means about a 2" drop. Also, if you need shocks, go ahead and do THAT first. I've seen new shocks raise it up as much as 1/2 inch. As for the rear, I agree. 3"-4" Blocks are about as much as you want to go. You may be able to look into drop shackles. When all is done, have a good mechanic true up the pinion angle. Good luck, post pictures.
Lowered the rear of my 53 with 3" blocks and then I reversed the eyes of springs for another inch or so (tech on HAMB). I also have 14" wheels with 185/75/R14 tires. Which dropped it more. Left the front stock height. May cut a coil. I like it draggin' ass though... Car is my daily driver. Tail pipes are getting a beating. I avoid big bumps and potholes like the plague. Drives nice. Still doesn't look low enough, though. Air shock are my next addition. Don't want to spend the money for a real air ride.
[I've seen new shocks raise it up as much as 1/2 inch. ] Cody&Lauren, what kind of shocks are you using that raises the vehicle?
I went 4 in the back with blocks, and have no driveshaft issues, but with my tall tires it puts my "U" bolts below scrubline, so I'm gonna have springs made with 3 1/2" less arch than the originals at some point. The front I cut about three inches out and it works great, but big potholes cause a frightening "THUNK" because it now only has about 3.5 inches of travel now. If yoiu live in a place with shitty roads and plan on driving it alot I would be cautious and lower it a little at a time in the front... and oddly enough I have no bumpsteer issues?!?!
Like the others said more than 3" blocks you run into scrubline issues anlong with not much travel before you hit the frame. If you put a small notch in the frame you could go with taller blocks (check the scrubline). you can also revrse the spring eyes and pull a leaf or two and get a few more inches lower. Up front you van run dropped uprights and cut 1 or 1-1/2 coils. In addition you could step the a-arms for some additional drop. Here is a tech article on dropping a arms. Todd http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=317696