I have been offered a really good deal on a Muncie Rockcrusher gearbox.Before I go through with it I was wondering if someone can explain the differences between these gearboxs & other Muncies.Is there any visual differences etc,,cheers
Try see if they help http://www.yearone.com/updatedsinglepages/Id_info/muncie.asp http://www.5speeds.com/muncie2.htm http://www3.sympatico.ca/atkinsom/history.html
Any good Muncie is worth buying at a reasonable price, I'd grab it quick! Beware-every other guy I talk to says his 4 speed is a "rock crusher" or an M22. Lots of them are uninformed and some are just plain full of shit. One ride in their car and I can tell because of the gear "whine" that is music to me. MANDATORY: Watch 2 Lane Blacktop and listen carefully to the scenes shot in the car. The M22 has straighter cut gears than the M21 and M20. It is also a close ratio trans with a 2.20 to 1 1st gear. Check the links that Ron posted and become informed! Good luck and welcome to the HAMB!
Hi deadbeat, your Muncie22 will have a fine spline for the clutch,a drain plug and a fine spline output shaft (like TH 400) Mine does... Good Luck..52 csb
On the passenger side, behind the casting numbers (which are horizontal), there will be the serial number (which is vertical). The last number will tell you if it's an M-20, 21 or 22. If the last letter is A, it's a wide-ratio M-20. If it's B, it's a close-ratio M-21, and if it's C, it's a close-ratio "rock crusher" M-22
Depending on how good the deal is, you might consider a brand new trans from Autogear. A new case with iron midplate, new gears, etc. might even be cheaper than what it costs to rebuild an original.
A real good deal on a working M22 would be under $500 or so. I've seen them as high as $900 and up for "gold digging" sellers. M20 & M21 units run between $350 to $600 depending on what's in them and of course the general condition, with or without shifter, etc. Bob
Not always true. You can put M22 guts in a non M22 case (and visa versa). I've had it done Not true. I've seen both fine/course inputs/drain plugs/and normal output shafts on both 22's and 21's. You'll need a picture. As stated the M22's gears are cut slightly straighter than 20's and 21's. Unless you see them side by side, it's really hard to tell unless you know what you're looking at. I put a putty knife/scraper against a tooth in the trans. If I see almost half of the tooth above (or maybe below) it's not a M22. The M22 will only reveal a slight edge of the next tooth. Also, it's been so long since I've done this (seen a 22), I prolly wouldn't know exactly what to look for now.
This page has a lot of good muncie info: http://www.nastyz28.com/chevy-manual-transmission-identification.php
Man there is a bunch of mis information out there about muncies. the only sure way to tell is pull the side cover and look at the helix angle of gears, M20-21 about 45* M22 about 20* they came in 10 spline and fine spline. and honestly the 2.20 first gear ratio is not great for street driving unless you have a decent rear gear to get off the line or a pretty torquey motor
I think most Gm factory cars had to have lower rear end ratios than 3.90 to be equipped with a M-22....anything higher were M-21/M-20 depending upon the options
$1000 NZ for a hot 283 & the rockcrusher.Complete engine,clutch etc,but it is out of a car that has been onsold.I do know the owner quite well,but he aint the "sharpest knife in the drawer" if you know what I mean,but the deal is all legit.Here in NZ I would pay up to $3000 for a good box that may not be recond. Cheers
Yep. I'd call that a good deal. I paid $500 for a M21 that I pulled down and rebuilt and I think that was OK. When you consider the NZ $ is worth 23 cents US, it's really pretty good Pete