Hot Rods "may banger may not" may's monthly meeting

Elrod, the A club here is the same way. Stuck up if you ask me. They HATE my car, I "ruined" it according to one guy. Wait'll one of em sees my roadster

When I first got my coupe, I got a call from the president of the club, asking about the car and asked if I would be interested in coming to a meeting. He asked my plans for the car, and after I told him (exactly what I did to it) he said maybe the club wasn't for me I am in the Early Ford V8 club here though, and they welcome hotrodders with open arms.

 

Chris is right......That is one of the coolest T's I have ever seen!!!!!!

 

The T guys are a little more understanding of "modifying", mainly as speedsters are as much a part of model T's as are stockers.

I am not even bothering to contact the Stutz club.

 

My Dad was in the T club for years, they loved anything you did to it...as long as it was still T powered My Dad built a speedster and raced in it, too. The T club was fun. I was a little kid, my parents were about the age I am now (late 20's) and everyone else was OLD!!
One time we drove My ol man's stock 23 touring from Spokane, WA up into BC Canada for a campint trip. It was like a 300 mile drive each way, but made it no problem. It was my whole family (Mom, Dad, Brother, Sister and I) and we had all of our gear tied to the running boards I look back and realize how cool my Dad is LOL






And heres me in the car with dear ol Dad when he was building it.

 

I considered driving my coupe to the meeting this last weekend and my wife said, "Are you crazy? They'll basically shun you for life!!"

So I got the cabriolet running and brought it to the meeting. Pretty rare body style for the Model A guys, but another guy also had a cabriolet there that was a blue ribbon show car that was amazing. I really got a kick out of seeing it, but no joke, when I drove into the parking lot, one of the guys said, "Hey Jason, uh.. yeah.. Park that thing way down at the end." Er... ok.

And then I got the comments that they all thought that I was never going to come back and that I was now hanging out with the Rat Rodder crowd. Whatever...

 

I took my A roadster over to the Jalopy Showdown last weekend. I had a great time lapping it around the track! Supposedly I had the lowest lap speed of the day (at full throttle!) but I'm pretty sure I was the only stock 4 banger there!



When I got there I couldn't get the car running despite always firing for me at home. Go figure, the one day I NEED it to run it won't! I think everything got a little shook up on the 300 or so mile voyage there over the mountains, I took it on the back of a '52 Ford COE. One of the guys camping with us from Rochester, NY is big into Model A's and T's; helped me get it running. We adjusted the carb and reset the points to 'business card' width

After we got it going though he (and everyone else that heard about it ) really jumped on me (in good fun) about tuning it up and I'm heeding his advice. Even though I got it going last fall on the points, coil and condensor it came with I shouldn't depend it on now that I'm driving it quite a bit. SO, the first order of business for me this week was changing the points. Afterall, I have all of this stuff already, why not put it on?

So I set out to change the points with the Standard points I bought at Napa a few months back. Turns out the pin (that you put the nuts and the wire on underneath) was shorter than the one on the old set of points I was taking out. The newer one wasn't even long enough to get the second nut on the bottom. So I ordered a set of Echlin points hoping the pin would be longer and it was the same deal as the Standard set. I figure I can't be the only person on earth with this dilemma? I fixed the problem by removing the pin and replacing it with a small bolt of the same diameter and putting on nut above the plate (like the fixed nut on the original points) and then the two below like it is supposed to be. Threw it back together last night and I can already see an improvement in how it runs! Next is the new coil!

In the interim I've discovered a C block. Thinking about building it instead of the B, thoughts?

My local Model A club is trying to get me to join, should I run the other way?

 

Join the A club MAFCA is down 2000 members I was told by a club board member at a recent meeting. They'll never get the 2000 back. Megan I love how you got your car running and subscribed to the thread. There are alot of mods you can do to the "stock" engine to get it running smoother. There is a vast amount of tech out there for the Bangers just its in the minds of old men mainly, literally. I look forward to hearing more about what you do with your car in the future, PROPS to you and all you do to it to keep it going down the road.-Weeks

 

way cool chevygirl!!!
looks great!
don't shun the car clubs...they can be very helpful. and the ones that shun you can still have guys and girls that love what your doing although they won't say it in front of the other club members.....get to know them!

 

Not all of us are "old" . You might be surprised at the aggregate age of the people that participate on this thread each month. Though I do remember when I was In my 20's and thought I new it all.


Model A clubs:

FAST is a group of hotroders that love to modify Model A's. Every one that reads this thread should join. They split off of the other A clubs for all the reasons above.

http://www.hotforhotfours.com/

.

.

 

Thanks for the website I added it to my saved list, but all the banger knowledge I have gotten has come from the 55+ crowd here in Bako. I do not claim to know anything, I know a minute amount in comparison with you (really like how you called out my diamond block lol) . I like to look at your car and take notes just like the next young guy. There are alot of questions on this thread monthly that are answered by uh greybeards mainly. I take every bit I can learn and thats the way I go about it.-Weeks

 

I am about to install a B crank with the slinger machined off, what is a good way to make the crankshaft seal?

 

hi rusty here in christchurch i installed an oil seal from www.model-a-autoparts.co.nz rodger anderson in napier he is worth contacting make sure you let him know its a b crank

 

I'm old

 

Yes, that would be great, can you scan the pages and post here?

 

Man that is cool...

 

Fitted another cap, lasted all of two miles, then started knocking like Thor's hammer.


Just fitted another complete banger... now we're off again, 'cept this time all stock apart from a lightened and balanced flywheel.


I'll get the other one rebuilt with a pressurised oil system - just gotta find the best place to do it.

 

I used to know the differance form an A and B flywheel, what is this one? What is the differance for the new guys and those that have forgotten?

 

Looks like an A. I have both; I'll take a side by side picture and post later

 

Chopped50Ford, are you just interested in the wheel colors?

 

Check out this link:
http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/flywheels.htm

 

Speaking of flywheels - can someone help out a novice - me

Can a multi late flywheel be converted to a single plate???

TIA

 

Yes, currently interested in wheel colors at the moment. Want to bouch them off of my current body color of Washington/Dearborn Blue

 

Paint Codes for Model A Cars

http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/goldcoastmodela/techtips/Paintcodes.html

Check out this website for wheel colors....

http://www.modelawheelcolors.com/content-categories/cat-377/model_a_wheel_powder_coating.html


BLACK


APPLE GREEN



AURORA RED



ORANGE


HESSIAN BLUE


TACOMA CREAM

 

Yeeess.... and No! Here's some info from the MAFCA site (I think).

The disadvantage of the multi disk clutch is that oil from the rear main would get into the clutch assembly and mix with dust from the clutch disks and cause the disks to hang up in the flywheel. The clutch would also chatter because of problems with the disks releasing.

That's why Ford changed early (about Nov 1928) to the single disk clutch. It can get rather expensive to rebuild a multi disk clutch. More than just the clutch is involved. It will also take some doing to change it out because of major differences.

To change from a multi disk clutch to a single disk clutch you must replace the flywheel, flywheel housing, pressure plate and clutch disk, and transmission.

The early transmission for the multi disk clutch had a different front main driver gear and shaft and no throw-out bearing.
The early transmission case was not tapped for the bolts that hold the front bearing cover, which is a snout (housing) for the throw out bearing slider (hub) to ride on. If you get a later transmission, make sure it has the front retainer which is the slider snout for the throw-out bearing, and the throw-out bearing hub. -- Les Andrews, Technical Director


Vintage sprints & midgets used cut down multi disk clutches to provide a powerful, low inertia, clutch and more foot room in narrow, single seat, cockpits. Generally, the friction linings were removed from the plates and additional steel plates are installed to maintain the clutch pack thickness. Any oil mist from the rear main didn't have a negative effect on the steel plates and is reported to have given a smoother engagement, like an oil bath motorcycle clutch.

 

Have a Model B rear main seal question. I am at work right now and can't post a picture but I have a crank that has had counter weights added and the rear oil slinger area has been machined. The slinger closest to the flywheel flange has been machined off with a really nice radius that blends from the shaft to the crankshaft side slinger. I am unsure what type of rear main seal this is set up for. There are no mods to the main cap or the aluminum rear seal fitting. Hope this makes sense. I'll try and get some pictures up but was curious if anyone has any info on this. I keep thinking I have seen something on this in some old article that showed the pressure oiling set up on a B block. Any help appreciated.

 

The Burtz seal runs on a 2.360" dia. sealing surface. and the SBC seal runs on a 2.430" dia. surface. Measure that surface and that will tell you which one to use.

 

Thanks. I'll measure it up when I get home.

 

hey guys, I'm new to this banga thing, I have found a "Essex" 4 flathead and was wondering what's involved with getting something like this going.
Is it the same as a 100E-type engine?
I haven't been able to find much info on Essex cars, I'm assuming they were imported from England to Australia.
Any links or info on British sidevalve 4's?

I hope to build a flathead 4 powered modifide so far I have a 25 chev chasiss, 27 chev cowl and ford "I" beam.

 

Essexs are cool cars, I've driven a few in the past. But info can be far and few between. Here are a few sites that may be helpful.

Essex entry on Wikipedia for history:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Essex_(automobile)

The Hudson/Essex/Terraplane club homepage:
http://www.hudsonclub.org/

This site has a lot of good links for Essex on the left hand side and bottom:
http://homepage.usask.ca/~lowey/essex/

Good luck, keep us posted!