Hot Rods "may banger may not" may's monthly meeting

after i finish my A mod i really wan to build a T rpu with a banger but this month my buddy that is going to help me build the motor is geting shipped to the middle east. so i'd like to begin this meeting by wishing pete good luck.

so now what have you got done this month

 

Good luck Pete i just really dorpped in to see if their really was any Banger porn in here yet lol

QQ

 

Weeks,

Nice work on that Diamond block. Was it a runner when you got it?

Don't forget to check the bearings before you button it up. Easier to do it now then after it's in the car!!!!!!


I picked up the parts I need to put mine back together. New pistons, rings, adjustable lifters, ARP head studs, and new crank gear.

While it is apart I'm putting in a Clay Smith Cam and modifing the oil pump.

Anything else I should do while it's apart?

.

 

'Diamond Block' What makes it one? Counterweighted crank? Thicker cylinder walls?

BTW: The motor looks good.

If you havent seen my thread, after 2 long years, got paint on the body.

 

How that the 5-main is cleaned up more found the guys before we missed the Main saddle center like....... so we are off next week to get a some really magic Germans off to weld the mains up and start over. Hey! It the joy of building something really different.

For now I'm pulling the B out of the car and have a look at it. We might get racing this year.

 

For Fur

Here's a curved-up body using your original cowl. It's just cut back a bit over the dash and the reveal line is slightly re-aligned. it takes its style from the curve of the front guard and running board. The extra louvres, raked screen and re-located steering wheel are optional.

 

What I know about the Diamond block:

The Diamond was the factory identification for post production replacement manufactured engine parts. The blocks had a diamond cast into them just above the cam gear inspection cover. The heads had the diamond cast under the water pump boss. There were A diamond blocks and B diamond blocks. The Diamond block castings are the same as what ever the factory was making when they stoped putting them in production vehicles.

Diamond A engine-

Same as the late '31 block. only difference I've seen is the rear main boss is beefier. Some people have noted hardened valve seat in the exhaust. No verification that this was done by the factory. There are reports of people that have these engines with counter weighted cranks, but if they did come from the factory that way, then they were very late (40's prewar) replacement engines with the pinned on counter weights.


Diamond B engine -

Block is same as last of the production build. Not all had counter weighted cranks. These were avalible as complete engines OR bare blocks. If you needed a new block this is what you got from the dealer as a replacement. Diamond blocks do not always mean that there is a counterweighted crank inside!!!!!!!!! I've been told that the casting is thicker in some areas, but I have not fond anything to document that.

The easiest way to tell if the engine has counter weights is to pull the breather tube and shine a flash light down in through the hole in the block. if you rotate the crank, you can see the #2 crank throw. If you see weights, your Money.

 

Thanks Crazydaddo for the pics. Now I know.

I need to tear down my banger and get a frame together for my T touring. I am starting to get the urge again.

 

That looks like a great little motor, that color reminds me of Catrpiller Yellow.
What carb are thinking about using? I have the same idea about my A
I can make the intake and header, but not sure what to run for the
carb.

Sorry, I guess I should introduce myself to the 'banger crowd, I just got a
'30-31 model A Tudor at an auction. I had been looking for a while but never
thought I'd get a running and titled A. My plan for the summer is to add
a header, intake, carb, and switch out the wheels and tires.
I'd also like to do an ignition upgrade, somthing to make it eaisier for
my wife to drive (and me too), I'm afraid i'll ruin something by
having the advance lever in the wrong place.

Here's my A Sedan:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=354772&highlight=auction

Thanks Jeff

 

Furbiscuit,

I like it:

my banger support concept...couresty of the great ~E~


<!-- / message --> <!-- sig --> _______
I also like what 88Daryl88 did!___________

 

the rakishness looks good. I have another body penned up, but will have to get someone to tranfer it to photoshop (I can tweak what others have done). The main problem with the first body is the 3 separate linear planes, it gives an appearance of 3 con-joined triangles: choppy (unless you are a fan of cubism).

2 linear planes and a long central connecting curve give the body a better flow. Bodies of this era started to really develope a more modern sense of continuity and curves, the days of carriage coach work is going away...

 

Valves? Now is the time to open them up. I put mine on the Bridgeport and indicated the the guide then bored the intake pockets out to 1.562 and installed 1 .750 intakes and 1 .600 exhaust. Gotta be carefull on a "B" as the valve pocket under the seat is not as large. I have a "B" sitting around that I'm going to try a 1.625 end mill on. It is ground with a 70 degree lead as per Geo Riley.

 

All you banger guys rule! I really think I want one after reading all these posts over the last few months.

 

My current project is to bore and bush the rocker arm stands for my 4 port Riley. The outer rocker arm supports were cracked and have been welded but it was a mystery why they had cracked. Well, the inner rocker arm shaft support in the casting was found to be oversize and out of round about .021 so as the valves were opening and closing the shaft was walking around. I believe this was caused by "Shade tree" mechanic work in the past. My friend who was the previous owner was never informed, he says, that there is no pressure oiling to the rocker arms in the original Riley 4 port so he never oiled them. The practice was to saturate felt pads on top of the rocker assembly before each race and maybe a squirt or two at pit stops. The rocker arms have been restored on this particular head but now I must restore the stands. Shafts looked okay but have been polished and are undersized and tapered. I'm going to make new ones using O1 drill rod and will be modifying the stands for pressure oiling.

 

I found this on the Fordbarn Early V-8 Swap Site. Thought a banger might be interested.

Parts for SALE: 1932 Ford 1.5 ton truck frame with 32 4 cyl engine. Frame cut a 60 inches on the front, rest is sold, good front axles and rear, solid frame, engine and trans there. Good project or parts. I cant deliver, or move, must be picked up this weekend or will scrap. email for pictures im in northern IL Trade me something cool or $100.00 its yours. Bring your trailer and load it up.

Seller's email: [email protected]

NOTE, I'm not the seller.

 

ill repost this here

im going to be giving my banger head a hair cut to clean it up and i figure id better make it worth my while, how much can i safely take off? chris was saying around .010, is that about right?

 

I am getting closer on my roadster. I just got the quarter panel attached, once the body is bolted down I can wire it and hopefuly she'll be a runner

 

If it is a stock head, you should be able to take off @ .080" without too much issue. But, as big as the stock chamber is, you probably won't see much of a performance gain. My $0.02

You would be beter off with a "B" head.


Chris,
The car is shaping up to be a fun Summer beater!!!! Look like it will be a blast!!!!

.
.

 

im sure it's better then nothing until i get a winfield head.

anybody know what the ARP stud sizes are?

 

Yeah, great for our 2 1/2 months of roadster weather

 

Your right....It won't run without one

The ARP studs are 7/16" - 14 on the block side and 7/16" - 20 on the other. just like stock.

.

 

thanks for the speedy replys.

another quick question

Looking at a lot of water pumps you guys have, they have open tops, mine is completely enclosed with a little cover plate on top.



ill try to take another pic if needed.

 

Here are a couple of quick scetches for fur_biscut to drool over

 

My old banger was decked .030 and the head was milled .030. No problems (until the rear main gave out 40 mi from home- completely unrelated.) I could tell the difference when I went to stock/stock on my new engine. I think I'll be in the market for a new head this year too.

 

Chris, The roadster is looking great... Are you gonna hop up the motor ? Or leave her stock?

 

Not a lot of progress on the tub, but I did accidentally buy something cool, maybe two things cool. More pics later this month when I take delivery.

 

hello Mr Biscuit
Here's the full pic, the flashing gif could give a T pilot an Epicyclic Fit/QUOTE]

 

A pair of Winfeild carbs?

.

 

For Model A head:
O.A.L. is 12 ea. @ 3 5/8" long and 2 ea. @ 5 3/4" long.

For model B head:
O.A.L. is 14 ea. @ 3 5/8" long


7/16"-14 thread length is 7/8"
7/16" - 20 thread length is 1"

.

 

Speaking of good finds.... My friend Pete is an avid garage sale goer, he never misses a weekend, so naturally I told him to keep an eye out for me for banger stuff. well, he calls me the other day and says "I think I found an overhead conversion for you", .. I said, "I'll be right there". Well it turns out he found an Olds 3 port head. I asked him how much he paid for it, and he told me $15 bucks for the whole metal tray. He kept the distributer and gave me the head for free. What a guy. And I just happen to have a 27 Chev motor to put it on.
I know a few other people on the Hamb have Olds heads, and we need to get together and have some aluminum valve covers cast up. Let me know if there is any interest.