I just finished with my new shift knob. Drilled it out the same dia. as the shifter but the shaft is splined. If it was just a flat piece, like the stock unit I could drive it on with a mallet but it is detailed and a little delicate, not to mention the paint job. What is the best way to get it on? Should I ream it out and them use epoxy to hold it in place. The way it is now, it will not be loose once it is in place and may never get off. (Kind of like my ex!) Ouch!
ok in all seriousness i had the same problem on my ranger when i changed the knob. all i did was drill the knob out a little bigger and i jb welded that bastard on..... only problem was a week later my trans blew up and i couldnt pull the shifter boot off the shifter to separate it from the trans so i would suggest some kind of wax or something on the splines first
try running threads on the shaft. It prolly has a fine spline and you should be able to get it to hold some threads. It may not be perfect but with a little loc-tite should stay in place for a while, then repeat. or try Silicone it will hold and you can get it back off if needed
That's what I was going to suggest as well... Even if you have to take the shaft down to a smaller diameter than the hole in your knob, get some of that Quik-Weld stuff (the 2-part gray stuff in the clear plastic tube that you cut of and work the inner goop and outer goop together), put some around the diameter of the shifter knob hole, then put it on your newly threaded shaft. Once it sets up, you can just unscrew it back off (it'll come off), sand off any excess, and now you have a knob that is perfectly threaded to match your shaft. I can say for sure it does work, I've done it numerous times with success. Hell, for that matter, you could probably do the same thing with the splined end, just put some light oil or something on the splines so that the epoxy will take the shape of the splines, but not actually get glued to them. Just an idea, I'm gonna use the oh-so-original pool ball on the end of a disguised Hurst Comp+, mainly because I have an extra set of pool balls layin' around the house! So what's your knob look like? I loved that thread a few days ago with everyone showing off what they had. Makes me wish I was artistic enough to pull something like those off.
O.K. Option one. If I drill out the hole to the diameter of the splines, would you use jb weld or 2 part epoxy? The knob is cast resin and does not hold threads well by itself. I used an insert on the last one. Option two. The splines run parallel to the shaft and only cover the second quarter of the area. If I tap it the hole will be so large in the first 2/4 you will be able to see it and silicone is not firm enough to make up for the lost material. I'll show pics once I get it together.
For stuff like that I like that Quik-Weld, it's about the consistancy of Play Dough so it stays where you put it. I just used some of the plastic version to refinish my Galaxie's steering wheel.
I'm a dumbass, I'm getting the names jumbled up... Quik-WELD actually IS JB Weld, it's just the fast dryin' kind. Quik-STEEL is the stuff I use for various random stuff.
I picked up some really cool shit at SEMA last year. It's called Plastex and it works great on those plastics that you can never seem to be able to glue together. It makes great thread repairs and just might be the right stuff for your application. here is their website http://www.plastex.net/
How about threading the shaft, (fine thread, preferably), then overdrilling the base of the knob. Epoxy an appropriately threaded nut into the knob, and PRESTO!....a threaded shift knob that matches your shifter. Roger
The fast setting JB Weld is called *JB Quik*.....just used some today....can't live without it..... CB
Man, I just can't get it right... The saddest thing is, I used those 2 exact products redoin' my steering wheel; I used the Quik-Steel to fill in the bulk of the cracks and used the JB Quik to finish filling, then hit it with a Dremel. I'm just gonna use the word "glue"... It's just all glue now.
Get a can of air from the stationary store hold it upside down spray the handle the cold may shrink it enough to slide the knob on. Gary
Shut yo mouf. . .I'm talkin' bout Shaft. . . Seriously, tho. . I used a two part, slow drying epoxy to put my glass shifter knobs on. . .was concerned that a fast dry would heat up and crack the glass. . .of course, they're NEVER going to come off my car. . .EVER. . .but I'm OK with that
my shaft has a knob on the end so's my hand don't fly off. waaaaaait a minute...... anyways, I would size it close, very little tolerance, clean it good w/ acetone and push it on with a small amount of epoxy and be happy.
There are some seriously deranged people on this board. I feel so at home here Oh, and yeah, I'd try threading the shaft and going from there...
Alright! I got it. Thanks for the advice. Here's how I did it. I baked it for 30 min at 200-225 and let it cool overnight to lock in the finish. Then the next morning, with the temps in the 40's I heated the mount point up with a heat gun and eased it on, being careful not to hurt the paint and keep the heat off of my shaft. Voila!
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