Rich, I have looked into conventional EDM and being the cheapskate that I am, found it a little too expensive for me. I have had to get broken taps out of near completed (see expensive) die blocks before. The guy I took it to uses a hole popper. The hole popper is essentially a conventional EDM machine that used hollow brass tubes as an electrode. This got me thinking about a DIY booklet I bought some time ago that gave detailed instruction on how to build one of those hole poppers using an 100 amp arch welder as a power source. I may just have to dig up those instructions and see if that would be applicable to this. .
Interesting day I snuck out of the house this morning and went to my friends shop to work on the Tudor. With a stock A head I believe the coolant in oil issue is behind me. After (4) complete oil and filter changes the milkshaking appears to have stopped. Installed the floor back into the car and ran the dual exhaust (red's two into two tube header). Took the car for a test drive. I knew I was real low on fuel so it wasn't a surprise when the car ran out of fuel 300 feet from the gas station a half mile from the shop, after putting 9.8 gallons of fuel in I was off for the test drive. I made it about 1/4 mile down the road and the car died on the 4 lane highway. A few tense minutes later I pushed the car into a parking lot. The car gods began to frown upon me; it started to rain. I removed a brass plug from the carb bowl and just a little fuel came out. I thought for sure my tank debris issue came back to haunt me. I took off the fuel line and blew back into the tank. I heard plenty of bubbles. I put everything back together and the engine would run for about a minute and then die. Pulled the plug and the just a little fuel ran out of the bowl. I ended up taking the top of the Holley 94 carb off and found the needle and seat assembly had backed off so the needle was mostly closed even with the float down. I'm guessing my friend who rebuilt the carb for me forgot to tighten it. Back together the car ran great with a lot more power than the previous 3/4 miles. I'm guessing the engine had been starving for fuel the whole time. I ran 50mph with some throttle left. I was surprised the engine wasn't viberating bad yet at that speed. A quick clutch adjustment and a trip to the DMV to register her and I should be ready to have fun this summer. Tad
I'd like to be able to say I had the World's Fastest T powered vehicle, bet the owner thinks the same.
On the way to breakfast yesterday morning, I developed an engine problem. I called AAA and was home soon enough to get in another car and get to breakfast before everyone had left. Took the head off to see what the trouble might be. Looks like #4 piston let me down. Good thing I pulled over and shut it down when I did. Looks like I get to fix the blowby issue I've had with this engine. .
No, This was a "B" engine that came straight out of a 1 1/2 ton truck. All I did was check the clearances, paint it and put the hop up parts on it. I was just about ready to pull it down and freshen it up anyway. .
The lousy Continental flat head sixes that Kaiser- Fraser used did the same thing with disgusting regularity. Remember helping to change a piston two different times on the same engine, which was driven normally by an older friend. When the head would pull off the piston,there wasn't any noise, the engine just became an inline five with a miss that defied any tuneup. Herb Kephart
I wanted to rebuild my B engine, so I borrowed a A engine from a friend. It was not the greatest engine but it ran for several months, and one morning I pulled out from a red light and BAM, but it kept running, so I kept it running for about 3 more months on 3 cyls until the B was ready. When I pulled it, it lt looked like your picture only mine was no.3. It would probably still be running if I didn't trash can it. Turns out it was a VERY poor sleeve job, that distroyed the piston. But the top just set there, and the skirt kept the rod moving with out putting it out the side. They were really tough engines for there time. Ice man
Wow a 30 Roadster on St. Thomas, a Barn find with out the Barn. Yea it's been here for many years and I looked it over. UUUGGGHHHH. What a piece of junk. I have seen rust, I have see BAD rust, But this one aint worth hauling away. You could almost push a pencle through the frame, the fenders look like Swess Cheese. Only thing that looked good was the 16 wheels. Tires are new, but 25yrs old, still have the tits showing. Not for me. Iceman
Since I can't resist showing off, here is a picture of my two Plymouth engines at the Speedway Museum. I will say they did a great job of making them shine. They didn't look this pretty when I owned them.
Would like to join , been reading your post for over a year Have a 31 pickup that I bought a few years back and drove it the way it looks below. After check on some items that did not work well ( Steering ) and wanting to Change the color and turn the pickup into a Banger Hotrod. I have taken it apart found the fram to have major pitting , so Boxed the fram for strength and drilled the boxing plats with holes to keep it looking right .moved the rear spring mount back 6 1/2 inches to relocate the spring behing the rear . Adding a drilled drop axle , reverse the eyes on the front spring using the article found here on HAMB , by the way it was so easy took about 45 min. Looking into a kwik Quickchange which is one of the question I would like to ask . Has anyone here in the states bought one of these units ? Also have obtained two 81's for what will be a some what stock motor wanting to run headers and a high compresson head . Would like your input
petritl: don't feel bad, It took me a week to figure out the needle and seat were loosening on my B carb. The engine was starving out on top end. I kept checking my filters for junk and not finding any, so I dropped the bowl and reset my float about three times. I finally got pissed and pulled the whole carb, that's when I found the loose valve. Luke
looks about right from here, those exhaust ports are pretty big. Valves look to be over 1.75 though, head gaskets are going to be a pain in the ass for that one. Any shots of the back of the block, do you know what transmission that he is going to run? (stock or something else...thanks)
Yeah we are dicussing head gaskets right now. I don't have any more pictures or know what trans he will be using.
I can not see from the pictures, but did he off set the valves towards the centerline of cylinder bores, or did he just punch out the valves using the existing valve guides? But in lieu of width of the head gasket, could he compensate by using a thicker one?
What i have done in the past was to cut a .030 deep slot using a .040 cutter in a line where I feel I may have a sealing proublum. This is with a .041 solid copper gasket. Then I glue in a .040 copper wire. Like "O" ringing but just where I expect trouble. That is what Wayne may try.
Here is a gasket from the OHV Plymouth. As you can see there are no two combustion chambers alike. And the area between chambers gets quite narrow. So that was where I fetl I needed more clamping. You may also notice this particular gasket gave it up. However not between clyinders and only when the block it self was bailing out.
Hi all, I have been lurking here for a long time. Since Rich posted pictures of my T engine project, I guess I will have to come out of hiding. I really enjoy the 4 banger forum. Maybe I can answer some questions about the engine. The valve shown in the pictures is bigger than will be actually used. That valve shown is 1.94", it was just laying on the work bench and someone stuck it in the hole. Even though it flowed well, there is no practical way it could be used. The first problem is that the intake valves almost touch in the next cylinder. This does not allow any room for a good gasket seal. So I thought that won't be a problem, I will just move the valve over. I made an offset guide and moved it over .120". Then the port wall between the intake and exhaust broke through. It could be done, but it would take a lot of welding and machining and I didn't feel the return would justify the work. So I settled on 1.720 intakes and 1.600 exhaust. It flows 109 cfm on the intakes through the carbs and manifolds at 10" of water. and 81 cfm on the exhaust. The carbs shown are 45mm and I also have a set of 40mm. The crank is a drilled counterbalanced A. The oil pump is a Datsun b210. Then there was the question of why do that much work to a T. A T is more work than an A, but I am a T guy. I want to have the fastest Model T powered Model T. This is all for fun anyway. One other thing is that there is no water close to the intake ports on a T, so you can have a lot more freedom to rework the ports. In fact this T block outflows any model A or B block I have done. It is a 27 block. I build a rear main seal housing and adapter to adapt a Lakewood small block Ford bellhousing and Mustang t-5 5 speed trans. We need the overdrive 5th gear so we don't have to run a quick change rear. I realize this is long winded for a first post, but I wanted to answer a few questions. Thanks for sharing all the 4 banger experiences.
Welcome to the HAMB Wayne! Hope to see more updates on the T, how far over 100MPH do you think you will go? What year T do you have? Stock looking sleeper or Hot Rod?
This is how I found the HAMB. Somebody posting a picture of my motor. At least I didn't say anything bad about wayne. Did I biscuit breath?
Welcome, Wayne,..... You need to put that motor in a streamliner when it's done and really see how fast she'll go. It's lookin good. Rich, I saw your old motor over at Cliff's place last year,.... is it now in the museum ? Very very cool. You must me stoked.
can't say that my initial foray nor subsequent interactions in the world of those who are most knowledgeable of the "Fast Four" was either polite, nor exhibited the most manners.
Thanks for the welcome. I actually have a partner who is putting the actual car together. It is a polyform glass 27 roadster body on a rectangular tube frame. We want to be able to run as either a modified or street roadster. The way the car is progressing, I may have an engine with no car to run it in for awhile. I may have to throw something together to put it in. The goal the first year is to go 100+ to get our HopUP t-shirt. A lot of work for a t-shirt. Then we would like to go after some of the flathead records in the 108 to 115 mph area. I am quite sure we can make the h.p., if we can keep the bottom end in the thing.
I was told Crazy Chris had an Offy crank fitted in a T block that held the Shell Hill Hillclimb record back in the 1970's. What is in your block? Good luck setting the new records! Bob
I don't think so. John told me they were going to build a display motor with nothing in it just to put out there. I think Cliff is going to sell/give them my old stuff when he is through with it.
congratulations all thats old is new and your efforts are living history as well as a great challenge and immense fun good one.
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