what are your experiences with POR 15; good or bad?

As title says; I have used alot of their product and so far (except for the "factory manifold gray" that I put on my daily driver pick-em-up's headers), I have had great "luck" with it. I have never used their "metal ready" but about 90% of the time I've used it on, has been freshly sandblasted metal with a rough texture and some "tooth" for it to hold onto.

Abt 6 mo ago I decided to buy a gallon (costs as much as only 3 qts) since I have more than 1 project going that I could use it for; one I was not planning on,was my too-new-to-talk-about here, replacement frame for my 97 Wrangler. (yeah; 12 years old and ready to snap just ahead of the driver rear axle arch) but on one of my frequented mopar oriented threads it seems the "POR 15 bashers" are coming out of the woodwork. So I thought I'd see here what you guys think of the stuff; where you have used it, (what types of parts, let's keep this outta the toilet)
(1) did it work as you had hoped?
(2) is it holding up?
(3) surface prep (if you did any)
(4) would you use it again?
(4a) if NO, what have you found as a better alternative?
and (5) any other comments that I have not thought of.

When I bought that gallon, I had considered Rust bullet but at that time I got "6 of 1, 1/2 dozen of the other" type replies as if they are both about equivalent (color aside; I mean as far as stopping/preventing rust, and the coating basically "holding up") what made up my mind was that POR is available <10 miles away any time I need it vs R-B needing to be ordered and shipped from outta state. But as I said now the bashers are out.
So being as that I'm about to need some more, either POR (Or should I try the R-B this time) I just wanna know what you guys think. I also have one of POR's Chrysler Blue "engine paint kits" here to use on my 318, if I can get caught up enough to get back to THAT project! (still on the stand fresh from the machine shop bare block, rusting away) story for another day.

 

I've used POR 15 on a chassis. It work great, spilled some on the tailgate and it stayed there for ever. Also used it on scaly brake drums never seen it pop off. My father in law uses Rust stain he got it at Porter paint I believe. You just spray the part with the rust stabilizer wait for it to turn white, hose it down, and paint. I'm sure there's alittle more to it than that. Good luck.

 

Used the header paint, engine paint, chasis black and the two part epoxy putty they sell.

Not one problem its all still on my projects.

 

There were only 317 threads that showed up for a search on por15. I guess it's to little to look and see if they answered your question?

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/search.php?searchid=5882265

I've used it with great success...

 

ive used it a few times now

first time out i did lousey prep and it peeled off in sheets

second time i had the parts blasted and its like rock on there now , a few minor bits of red showing where i couldve probably put more on the edges but its good when used right

 

I was a POR-15 distributor for years and saw their products and support go from good to bad in a really short time. I've switched to KBS Coatings and have had great results. http://www.kbs-coatings.com/

 

I used it several times with no issues, just did my 9 in rear for my Merc and other chassi parts.

 

went right over their heads zman...

 

When you click on the link it doesn't work!

 

then use the search and pick out a thread.

 

I know it is not resistant to vegetable oil.

Probably not a situation you guys will ever run into, but I run diesels on bio-fuels. A few years ago there was a big trend to paint the insides of fuel tanks with POR-15. After a few months it turned out to be a bad decision. It disolves into goo and comes off in sheets, even with proper prep work.

 

+1..plus, it comes in different colors, and you can mix them to make your own custom color.

Doesn't fade near as bad as POR-15, and you can chose to paint over it, or leave it.

 

I'ver used it for 15 years... good stuff.

 

Try this link , was just there -http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/search.php?searchid=5884927

 

POR cures on exposure to moisture - the moisture in the air will do it. To extend the life of the POR in the can, don't remove the top of the paint can. Punch a little hole in the center of the lid, pour out what you ned, and tape over the hole. This way the paint in the can is exposed to much less moisture, greatly extending the shelf life.

 

I have used POR15 for years and it works great. I did the brake drums on my trailer. Two hours later a stud broke off. I grabbed the torch, heated the stud, and removed it. The POR15 did not burn off and still looked great when I installed the new stud.
It does require top coating with regular paint when exposed to the sun, or it will chalk off. But it is a great product.

 

It does NOT like smooth surfaces. Make sure to rough up any smooth
metal and don't get it on your skin.

 

You, sir, are a goddamn genius. This is how I'm gonna do it from here on out!
And as for the product: i love it. great success with it.

 

Thanks for starting this thread.
I appreciated not having to search through thousands of OLD posts to get up to date info.

 

You're going to regret buying a gallon can of it!
Once you open it, and expose it to the air, it starts to cure. Buying it in small quantities, unless you use it all at once, is a better choice.
Regardless...I would quickly transfer it to smaller, airtight containers. If you aren't going to use it all.
When using a small amount out of a container...open it, pour out the amount you need and immediately close the original container. You should also put a couple layers of plastic wrap on top of the can, as the POR will seal up the can permanently if it gets into the rim. Pushing the plastic wrap down onto the surface of the liquid will help slow curing, as it separates it from the air in the can.
Storing it in the Fridge helps slow hardening. Stinks it up, though!
I've also found that purging the air out of the container helps stop hardening...I use the Argon from my MIG gun!
Been using it for over 20 years, and still use it...though I prefer Master Series Coatings right now...it's about 10$ cheaper per quart, and works just as well.

 

We have used POR15 in our shop for several years with great results. If you follow the 3 steps they suggest it works great. If your metal is sand blasted you can skip the marine clean and the metal ready and go straight to the POR 15. WE ARE A NATIONAL DISTRIBUTOR FOR ALL POR 15 PRODUCTS AND WILL GIVE ALL ALLIANCE MEMBERS A 15-20% DISCOUNT.

WWW.JULIANOS.COM

 

Don't get it on your hootus.

 

Ive talked to some KBS guys at swaps; and some of them used to sell POR; one claims KBS started from POR employees when POR wouldn't "change" their formula or something like that; but I did not know anyone who had actually USED KBS to see how it worked for them (the salesman is always gonna say how "great" their stuff is; think they make any $$ admitting they sell crap? and again the accessibility issue; I can't always wait til the next swap meet to buy product and like Rust Bullet, no one that I know of sells KBS that close to me. I have been thinking of picking up one of their gas tank sealer kits at the next swap I go to and try it out.

On another note; I see you are in Olney IL; I'm in Kankakee about oh, 3 hours away. Is there a "network" of KBS dealers? Who do you know near me that sells it? I might just have to try some.

 

I bought some KBS off their website to paint my rusty, crusty running boards. They looks great (they look like like they were dipped in plastic) but they haven't been exposed to the elements yet. Their sampler kit did them both with almost 1/2 left in the paint can... I've never used POR 15, but I have used Eastwood's Corroless and it seems comparable, but it covers better.

 

well I just found out they mean what they say about the prep and the "metal ready" and not liking smooth metal; I just did my Jeep frame only hitting the loose rust with a flapper wheel, and when I flipped it ofer all that I thought were "paint drips" were air pockets; I scraped them off, and yup' peeled; ist time NOT using it on fresh sandblasted metal; (in which case I have not yet needed their "metal ready" product) so I dressed the rail again with the flapper wheel sprayed the M.R. on there and soon as it dries I'm gonna try it again.

 

I use it often myself. Had good luck with it. I've done the whole process on yard ornimantes but when it comes to the cars, I glass bead the parts first. I have never had a bad experience with it. Do get small cans of it. I like the idea about punching a small hole in the lid then taping it closed. I'll try that on my next project.

 

I used it on my chassis and 9" rear. Goes on easy and holds up well. Needed to get some off to weld a piece in chassis. Had to grind the stuff off area to be welded. I like the stuff.

 

Used some POR 15 on a sandblasted Ford rack body frame. Stuff was nearly impossible to grind off when we needed to go back and weld a couple of spots. Tough stuff. I just hate using it on non-sandblasted metal, with all the extra steps and stuff you have to take to get it to adhere properly.

 

I was reading on their website about the topcoat. I would like to use this on my frame for now and topcoat it. The instructions they give is for when the POR15 is cured and requires their etching primer first. Is that they only way you can topcoat, or can you just topcoat the POR15 when it is still tacky?

 

It works great.Did frame, inner fenders, inside the hood,hell, used it all over. Bought aquart and just kept finding more stuff to paint 'til it was gone. That was 14 years ago and it still looks great. Used a brush on most of it,except where i wanted it smoother then you just rattlecan over it when it's still tacky and it flows out really smooth. Use it on the outside of your inner fenders with rattlecan undercoationg sprayed into it (while still Tacky), lasts forever. Used their gas tank kit too with no problems.