So I read the valve adjusting info in the factory 1956 shop manual, and Ford recommends .019" clearance, while running and warm... Just wondering how many of you guys do it this way versus cold (static) adjustment while not running? The subject is my '56 T-bird, 312 c.i. with a mild cam. (solid lifters) The only reason I ask is I have had similar results doing it both ways on a poly-318, and have heard it done both ways on solid lifter SBC's. Todd
I'm a retired mechanic, that has done many valve grinds on solid lifter engines and I'll tell you first that it is always good to follow the directions in the book. Now I'll tell you what I have learned, on a street engine when I pulled the valve covers and rechecked the lash 9 times out of ten it was not worth burning your fingers, but there is always that one time and I was earning a living so I did it . Just curious, what did you find out about the headers?
I'd just set it with the engine warm and not running. They probably recommend that method just to idiot proof things for the average Joe and avoid the whole discussion on how to make sure the lifters are on the base circle.
On my 312 I always set lash with engine at slow idle. I don't have jam nuts on mine so that makes it easier. You also know right now if tappet sound varies. I can adjust mine in a few minutes with engine running.
Don't have it anymore,but when I had a 56 Ford I did it with it running.I liked to hear the difference in the adjustments.
Thanks for the advice everyone... Mike, by all the evidence I have, as well as talking to Red's headers, I believe the headers were, in fact, a pre-production set made specifically for the car, later mass-produced. The header flanges on mine matched other early Hedmans, but the production version of my headers had full plate flanges. Mine are definitely not Red's headers, anfter talking to a tech guy and comparing the headers...
This is the best way I think, an easy way to do it is to run them down to zero lash (TDC comp) then back off 1/4 turn, comes out to .020". One thing, if you shafts are worn out the lash will never read the same twice.
When you adjust the valves at slow idle, are you still using a feeler gage, or just tighting them down till the ticking stops then backing off 1/4 turn. this is on a 55- 292.Thanks.
Thanks, the engine is rebuilt but I dont konw how many miles it has on it, guessing less then 10000. It has been sitting for a while and was low on oil when I got it. It is ticking and is getting oil to the rockers, I wanted to make sure you could it that way.
How loud should the lifters tick on a 292 ford? I got it warm, backed them off till they ticked, tightend them till they got quite then backed off 1/4. I ended up the same as I started, noise wise. Thanks.
This is what I am going to try...that is, after I replace the pushrods. I found 2 that were slightly bent. I honestly don't see how the hell anyone does this with the engine running...I am going to give the method above a try...just been working on the truck more the past few weeks. Appreciate all the input. Todd
Set the lash on the exhaust and intake on one cylinder with the engine cold and not running. Warm the engine to operating temperature. Recheck the same exhaust and intake to see if there is any change with the engine up to operating temperature. If there is a difference you can figure out how much they changed. From then on you will know what to allow when adjusting the valves with the engine cold.
Solid lifters should be set with a feeler gauge and I set mine at .015-.019 . It does not tap either and idles smooth and quiet . That is the most accurate way . Close doesn't work for me ! You don't set solid lifters with the engine running either ! I worked for Ford for many years and never heard of setting solid lifters with the engine running ! Do you think race cars set thier solid lifters with their engines running ? I don't think so !
This is the way I always did it and I agree with both of them. I set my Yblock valves at .020 cold and its always ran great.
Always set a Y block cold. The way the exhaust manifolds are shaped, any warm method will burn you. Anyone wanting the lengthly discription of how I do it, email me and I will write it out for you. I copied it from the Y Block Magazine.
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