nah that aint blood.that rust isnt pitted in.it kinda wipes off cuz the oil.you think im guna have to take that beast apart?
rite on.a friend said it dont look like thers enough meat on those cylenders to punch out any more.what do i do?this is the first time i ever took an engine totaly apart.
Does this "Friend" have a mikcrometer for a eyeball ?? Thats a bunch of bull. Need actual measuring tools.
yeah i told him the same thing about the mikrometer.i got this engine for free and im guna try and make it work if i can.this is kinda for funs.i dont need another engine.im just bored.(and the bottom end moves freely)
if you like doin stuff more than once , go for it! , the heads have some valve issues that need to be resolved , and if water has been sitting in the block for some time well that just aint good my friend.. but the very most important thang?? have fun dude..
wd-40,wire-cup wheel on a drill,clean the snot outta it,see wat ya got, iffen ya pull it apart itll need everything...$$$...
As long as the rings arent stuck to the bore it might clean up. Soak it down as has been suggested with wd 40 or liquid wrench.If it turns over,move the piston to the bottom and you can hone the top of the bore if youre careful, wire wheel the head and hope for the best!
are you sure the head isn't cracked? is all that rust from the antifreeze? i've seen that happen before on these inlines. i bought a head for a 292 that was sitting in the snow one time, the guy told me to pure atf on it and make sure the valves vere all unstuck. i took it to the machine shop instead and i am glad i did.
i hope not.im guna take a closer look tomorro.but i think its just rain from these recent storms.the guy i got it from just left it out side
all the cylinders look good except for the 1 that had all the rust in it.thers some pitting.dont know about the valves but im gussing they all need to be replaced right?
Run it. I might pull the valves and make sure the inside is nice and clean, then you can also see how tight the guides are or arent. Look at it this way, it is a free engine and a great way to learn!
You got it that far apart, you might as well replace the valves and springs and guides... I mean it is a learning experience and it was free ... a few bucks invested now might be worth it's weight in gold, not only in a great stovebolt, but for the knowledge gained. It's amazing what a long soak (2 weeks) in ATF and Marvel Mystery Oil will do for those old ladies.
Used to work in a NAPA machine shop, and I agree. Your'e at a point now where a little bit of money spent on rings and bearings will pay you back in the long run. Sure you could put it back together as it is and it would run, but it's gonna leak everywhere there is a joint, and smoke like a mosquito machine. Inline sixes are the cheapest, easiest engines to rebuild, and the knowledge you will gain will be priceless later on. If there is a crack, you will find out, and won't be throwing money down a hole. If there is a crack, and you put it back together as is, you are good for MAYBE 20 miles or so before it goes belly up. Rebuild it, if it's worth rebuilding. It won't cost that much to tear it down, have it vatted, and find out. Thanks, Mike
thanks for all the advice.i looked on ebay last night and found a rebuild kit for $260.so for now i guess im guna take it all apart untill i get some money for that kit.what i really need is a job.does anyone in so cal know of any companys hiring truck drivers?i just got my cdl class a and im havin trouble finding a job.
I pulled a newly rebuilt engine apart after the distributor gear and cam gear broke. Oil pump had one strand of a wire brush lodged in the gears. All it takes is one strand.!
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