Hey all, Just pickin' your brains for a bit. Any of you, maybe most of you (who knows), shaved your door handles... what type of latch/lock mechanism did you use after you nixxed the handles and locks? I have a '57 F100 pickup, not that it matters much, but any other F100 owners that made the shave... I'd really appreciate your input. I know there are a number of different manufacturers out these days, but I want to know what my fellow HAMBers have had good results with. If you have any, please try to include to picture or two. How 'bout a rating scale for the swap... 10 being the install was a dream, couldn't be any easier and 1 was a nightmare'ish pain-in-the-ass. Lastly, any HAMBers selling the latch mechanisms? I'd much rather throw my dough at a brother-in-HAMB, than some faceless (corporate) parts warehouse. I always appreciate the input I get from everyone, so thanks in advance for your time. Enjoy your weekends!!! -DON-
There are a few ways to open your doors after a shave: 1. Bear craws - they are easy to install you'll need a remote system to open the doors. 2. Stock latches with a remote solenoid with good power to open these latches. You could run a cable from the door to under a front fender, it's a pain and hard to pull. 3. Power windows with remote, lower the window and open the door it's a very good way. * There are vendors who are HAMBERS that could help with ideas and parts you need. Good luck.................... CRUISER
I used an 'altmans easy latch' bear claw kit on my '54 effie, and they bolt straight in with just a couple of cuts. I dont know how much different the '57 set up is but if you talk to Diane at Mid fifty Ford, she really knows her stuff and might be able to set you up with a kit. Best of luck.
Bear claws and Autoloc solenoids/remotes...installed in '55 Caddy...not the easiest thing to do...a 4 on your scale. R-
Bear claws and '77 Pontiac electric door lock motors to pop them in my '48 Chevy p/u. I found some small springs to wind around the shaft of the lock motors to get them to return when activated.
I've done a couple different things.......... On my '75 Duster, I shaved the handles, kept the locks. Put the handle rod to the lock, set the door lock rod to the UNLOCKED position. You put in the key, turn, door opens! Would work on most later vehicles well. On the '50 Burb, after seeing all the weak bearclaw latch failures on the job, I went with Yugo latches, which are real thin when installed and not that rare to find - they were apparantly pretty common European units. All metal construction. I fabbed up my linkage from the '40 Ford turndown handles I used and they work GREAT with a really nice professionnal feel. I spent a lot of time fabbing that linkage, it's been flawless for a couple of years now, and it dawned on me I could've accomplished the same thing with cables and an adjustable lower pulley. But I get that crisp, mechanical feel when I open the door. Another thing - if your at a point on your car where you can spotweld in a barrier to keep others from prying on your linkages, now would be the time.
We used the stock latches with an Autoloc remote kit, in a Chevy truck. We had to replace the solenoids just before the 1 year warranty was up, they replaced them free, but installation was a pain. Having do do it over made it a real pain. I wouldn't buy the Autoloc kit again. I'll give them a 3. Red
Thanks to all that took the time to reply directly or PM, I appreciate and value your opinions! There are definitely to sets of opinions around Bear Claws... loved 'em or they're garbage! No real in between thing going on with Bear Claws. It all seems to stem from the remote solenoids and how difficult the latch is to actuate. A few PM's have come in suggesting I steer clear of all the modern "crap" and stick to what has always work; remote linkage with a hidden handor foot switch. I would still need to have a lock mechanism. So, I was considering all they has been suggested, what about something like this... My '57 has the single keyed entry (with the flip up cover) on the passenger side, what about wiring that to a pair of solenoids to that lock, not using any door poppers, and finish it with hidden door latches. I like the idea of this being as non-electric as possible. I just figure the fewer the things that pull juice off the battery, the better. That was my motivation why I bought my '83 Range Rover. It's a U.K. "gray market" vehicle, about 5 years before they were available over here. The U.S. Rovers were power everything and everything failed horribly... mine has nothing that is powered. No silly switches, etc. to break or fail. That's what I want for this truck and I want the door handles gone but I realize that to acheive that I'm going to have to power some things. Does powered key locks and hidden foot switches seem practical? If not, what would you suggest (knowing I'm trying to keep this as simple or non-powered as possible)? Thanks again for your comments and suggestions! -DON-
i'm going w the choke cables into the fender well. no locks, but we r going to put a battery kill switch some were. haven't gotten that far yet. but like some i don't wanna rely on a battery.
^What he said.....didnt someone on here use/make an outside lock for the vent window?Thats what I would have done if I still had vent windows.
I did it with the SPAL kit on my 57 I will post pictures and try to explain it later tonight, as I am on my way out the door as we speak.
Sorry I just read the entire post and realized that you want to stay mechanical. If you decide to go to the dark side I can show you the way.
I have a 66 GMC that I just shaved the handles on. I just use the vent window arm style poppers for now. My neighbor laughed at me the other day and said "Damn boy you is a hillbilly." It's not that bad I will put in poppers someday.
I've thought that remote trunk openers would work well. They're designed for that, and the boneyards are full of 'em. Anybody go that route?
Hey again, Thanks to all for taking the time, I never would have thought about many of these suggestions. Some that I like... The choke cable idea with a kill switch Trunk poppers is a good one I'm wondering what 57F100's SPAL kit is all about (pictures?) Bear Claws if I really wanted to do it proper with electronics I'm curious, does anybody have a pics or can elaborate on KRIPFINK's "Altmans Easy Latch"? Please add your opinions/comments/suggestons to any of the ideas above or feel free to submit anything we haven't heard already. This has been a great thread and I appreciate those who've taken the time to contribute. I will try to PM a couple "57F100" and "KRIPFINK" and ask them to explain for the rest of us interested. Thanks again, -DON-
Ain't nothing better! Find a big ass old Newport and strip that thing! I love that heavy 1960's clunk when I hit the locks!
The Altman's Easy Latch is a direct replacement for the 1953-1956 Ford F-100's stock latches. They are easy to install (hence the name) and come in several styles. We have them available for use with or without handles. They also come in your choice of paint-to-match steel or stainless steel. They are an excellent upgrade for your F-100 and we provide excellent support and are here to answer any of your questions. Instructions are detailed with plenty of pictures and the necessary templates. We are also working on an instructional video. If it is not obvious by now I work for the company that manufacturers this latch along with other products for the F-100 such as grilles, interior door handles, speaker grilles, and more. We are also developing latch kits for for the mid-fifties model Chevy truck and '39 Ford coupe. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to drop me an e-mail. [email protected]
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