So I have ben toying around with the idea in my head of building a dragster. Nothing crazy, just something purpose built and fun. A car I could take to the local track every week on Wensday nights for test and tune. 15 bucks for a night of fun!! I live 10min. from the track. My questions are what trans. would be good, and how do I narrow a banjo rear, it's tapered? Or should I use something els? I'm just trying to build this for free. or cheep. any ideas would be great.
I'm using a powerglide in my 23 altered and I narrowed a banjo rear using late model bearing retainers and 31 spline axles. As you know the crown gear and half of the case are one piece I had it splined to accept the axles so that a spool isn't used, had the axles splined 3" long so they rest against the cross pin havn't tried it yet. HOTRODWERKS has a kit to run smaller 28" axles.
How about giving us just a little more info on what you are thinking as far as motor/trans. Flathead? SBC? Rolls Knardly? We can help, but need a better idea of your project.
Comp, The track is Lebanon velley drag strip, it's a 1/4 mile track with a bunch of cool history drivers like Shirley Muldowney and Ron Abbit ran the Valley some 50 years ago. As for my thought of a car I figured I would let you guys give me some good ideas. i'm open to anything. I think I will run a chevy engine because like I said before I want to do this as cheep as I can. Thanks
Define Dragster. Are you wanting to build a FED or a HAMBer HA/GR style? Not sure I would want my nuggets over top of a banjo in a FED. If you want some car ideas there is supposed to be a Nostalgia race at Lebanon Valley tomorrow, with a rain date of next Saturday. I crew on the Bits and Pieces Nostalgia Funny Car, we're supposed to be there for that race. Al in (rainy) CT
Save the banjo stuff for the street nostalgia boys. Ford 9's are cheap, pleantifull, and practically bullitproof. It's not much fun hunting down parts made out of un-obtanium and paying thru the nose when you do find them.
I'm building essentually the same thing from a set of plans for a Chassis Enginneering frame dating February 24, 1958. Mine is a fairly faithful copy of a period FED, using a 394 Olds with 6-2's, three speed Chevy short box with low and reverse removed and an early Olds, big bearing rear, from the same donor car. Keep in mind if you follow the old style of construction the car is not going to pass tech at any track. Now double hoops, kidney bars etc. are required to meet current standards. I don't know of any home built cars that have been able to get an HHRA frame tag. Anybody out there have info on that? Mine should be ready by spring. I think the best I might do is being able to run the HAMB drags, ( Beaver Springs, 1/8 mile), and other stuff like that. Fellow HAMBers let me know of anyplace else, East coast, that might accept such cars. When I figger out how to post pictures I,ll throw some up here. This thing is truly beutiful.
I only thought about a banjo cuz a have a bunch of em. My idea was a FED, i like the 350/350 idea with a 9". I'm not to sure about things like wheelbase. I know every year they got longer and longer. I was thinking short like 98" or 100". As far a what will pass tec what do I need to do. I know Get A Rule Book, but anything you guys can tell me. I will go to the track tomarrow as long as the rain stops. I hope cuz I will be out of town for work next week.
This is fairly current NHRA specs, something to ponder until you get a current rule book. IIRC, tubing is .125 wall for mld steel.
Been there , done that, just had the t shirt made thursday. (really i did) I had it running around the yard painted and everything for just under $3000 . I bought bigger rubber and a rad since with a fan which killed another almost $1000. The build in on my website listed below and is on the second page. It was inexpensive , fun and faster than i expectd. i made some errors i would not make again.that would save a few $. But only a few. not a big deal. I used a Dodge rear end because they are STRONG! and plentiful and the axles are suitable for resplining . I narrowed the housing in house and sent the axles out for resplining but cut them to length myself. When i narrowed the diff housing i made the pinion centre of the car. which it would not normally be. I built everything , shifter,steerng wheel ,chassis, front end seat ,and the motor was also my build. I am very very happy with this car. In fact i would like to do another . It is my own design. .125" wall mild steel tubing. (DOM) Therefore i would encourage you on your project. If you enjoy it like I do mine you will be a happy camper. I kept both a NHRA and IHRA rule book handy just to be sure I was not commiting some terrible sin. I was offered a Tag for it by an chassis inspector recently. I dont need it for the speeds i run but if he shows up like he said he would i will go for it anyway. He seemed to appreciate the nostalgia style combined with the recent rules changes. I am sure it isnt perfect . Next one would be better. Don
FYI- a old fed came back up in the classifieds today. Frame looks rough but the running gear maybe worth the 1750 obo. Not too far away from you in N.J. (?)
144"wb, carb'd 350 sbc / powerglide, 9" ford rear, mag ignition, fill the block with water during runs and drain it on the return road out the side petcocks. no need to go overboard on electronics,water pumps/radiators,batteries/charging systems just keep it simple and have fun all day! trust me I've done it already just my $ .02 ps- if you end up parking your rig at my place in PA you can look over my lyndwood rail to see how they did it in '59 real bare bones!
Rich, I didn't even notice your post up there. I have passed your name on to a few people seeking plans, hope you don't mind. The ones I got from you worked out great. The way this thing sounds, with open zoomies in the shop, about the only thing I'm missing yet is a vendor for really big brass balls. Can't wait for spring! This has got to be high on the list of dumb stuff I've tried. I've probably lived long enough anyway.
Plans? We don't need no stinking plans! Seriously I'm building a Dragmaster styled digger w/o plans. I've got a spare 354 hemi for it. Read a lot of old Hot Rods, start measuring every one you see.
Kerry, Are you replacing the age old question about which came first the chicken or the egg with race car and trailer? Back to the original question about narrowing a Banjo rear, I did one for my Lyndwood that ran a 327 SBC. You just cut the tubes, and turn the outer end diameter to slide inside the tube and weld it. Bolt the backing plates on to get the wheel cylinders siting on top before you weld things up. They ran a 3/8 steel scatter sheild on the center section for family jewel protection.
use a 351w with a C6 it's a better quality engine and tranny than a 350/350 and its just as inexpensive to build
Last week I helped my friend with his F.E.D. 150" wb nine" rear harley frt wheels 406" sb flat top pistons stock vortec heads 1.94 intake valves flat tappet cam 750cfm holley old classic style pg trans ran 6.07 best in the 1/8 but all his times were consistent and this is his first race experience has about 20 runs so far still learning the lights started on a pro tree and then a full tree (bracket racing) on the same day.Not too expensive,no electronics,foot brake.the only change is from gas to alcohol so that it runs cooler
do a search on samiyam's altered....alot of stuff that would cross over to what your wanting......just keep it fun and safe.... brandon
You could just save yourself alot of time and money and buy one done ready to go. Like mine in the classifieds.
here's one that was up in NY, spare yourself the agony and time of building one and buy one. this one is sweet looking have the chassis & welds checked (especially in the middle where it flex's the most or if it wasn't blocked right while transporting) take it to an NHRA office or chassis shop and have them go over it before purchase, clean up the frame rattlecan the body black throw in your engine trans & go racing. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=255614&highlight=dragster
WSDAD- I got my plans from Rich Venza, see post in this thread. You can PM him. He sells the plans for cheap and I wouldn't want to step on his toes. They are well worth the money if you can think for yourself. Like most things back then they are a set of profession engineer reviewed plans. They are not a 100%, last piece drawing. You have to do a fair amount of thinking and it is an early car, which is exactly like I wanted. I highly recommend just for the cage details and it does look like a period car. Many of the repops I see of the late 50's cars are an approximation at best. Kerrys frame is an exception to the rule and looks really good. Can't wait to see more. Maybe we can line off sometime!
Thanks for all your 2 cents. I almost have $1.00 now. I took my truck to the Valley in the rain today and duh, it was rained out. Well rain, sun, back to rain and no racing. Maybe next week, that's the rain date. I'm still totally up in the air with a dragster.??? I just bought some deuce frame rails a few weeks ago with the plan to build a flathead powered 28/29 roadster. I really haven't started working on it just buying parts. crossmembers, '39 pedals, springs etc. I don't know what to do? All my friends drag race every week so I'm at the track anyway. I just don't want to get into a drag car money pit. I'm not trying to set any records I would be verry happy with hi 11's or low 12's. What do you guys think 40's lakes style roadster or low buck wheels up in the air human pin ball/ death machine that will probably run in the 15's haha.
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